calamity, like those far-off locomotives on the rhine, has again rolled out of germany on her neighbors. yet this very calamity it is that has given me back my faith in my own country. it was germany at peace which shook my faith; and i must tell you of that peaceful, beautiful germany in which i rejoiced for so many days, and of how i envied it. then, perhaps, among some other things i hope you will see, you will see that it is germany who is, in truth, the deepest tragedy of this war.
the germany at peace that i saw during may and june, 1914, was, in the first place, a constant pleasure to the eye, a constant repose to the body and mind. look where you might, beauty was in some form to be seen, given its chance by the intelligence of man—not defaced, but made the most of; and, whether in towns or in the country, a harmonious spectacle was the rule. i thought of our landscape, littered with rubbish and careless fences and stumps of trees, hideous with glaring advertisements; of the rusty junk lying about our farms and towns and wayside stations; and of the disfigured palisades along the hudson river. america was ugly and shabby—made so by americans; germany was swept and garnished—made so by germans.
in nauheim the admirable courtyard of the bathhouses was matched by the admirable system within. the convenience and the architecture were equally good. for every hour of the invalid's day the secret of his well-being seemed to have been thought out. on one side of the group and court of baths ran the chief street, shady and well-kempt, with its hotels and its very entertaining shops; on the other side spread a park. this was a truly gracious little region, embowered in trees, with spaces and walks and flowers all near at hand, yet nothing crowded. the park sloped upward to a terrace and casino, with tables for sitting out to eat and drink and hear the band, and with a concert hall and theater for the evening. herein comedies and little operas and music, both serious and light, were played.
nothing was far from anything; the baths, the doctors, the hotels, the music, the tennis courts, the lake, the golf links—all were fitted into a scheme laid out with marvelous capability. various hills and forests, a little more distant, provided walks for those robust enough to take them, while longer excursions in carriages or motor cars over miles of excellent roads were all mapped out and tariffed in a terse but comprehensive guidebook. such was living at nauheim. dying, i feel sure, was equally well arranged; it was never allowed to obtrude itself on living.
each day began with an early hour of routine, walking and water-drinking before breakfast, amid surroundings equally well planned—an arcade inclosing a large level space, with an expanse of water, a band playing, flowers growing in the open, cut flowers for sale in the arcade and comfortable seats where the doctor permitted pausing, but no permanent settling down. thus went the whole day. everything was well planned and everything worked. i thought of america, where so many things look beautiful on paper and so few things work, because nobody keeps the rules. i thought of our college elective system, by which every boy was free to study what best fitted him for his career, and nearly every boy did study what he could most easily pass examinations in. there was no elective system in nauheim. everybody kept the rules. there was no breakdown, no failure.
moreover, the civility of the various ministrants to the invalid, from the eminent professor-doctor down through hotel porters and bath attendants to the elevator boy, was well-nigh perfect. if you asked for something out of the routine, either it was permitted or it was satisfactorily explained why it could not be permitted. whether at the bank, the bookshop, the hotel, the railway station or in the street, your questions were not merely understood—the germans knew the answers to them. and every day the street was charming with fresh flowers and fresh fruit in abundance at many corners and booths—cherries, strawberries, plums, apricots, grapes, both cheap and good, as here they never are. but the great luxury, the great repose, was that each person fitted his job, did it well, took it seriously. after our american way of taking it as a joke, particularly when you fumble it, this german way was almost enough to cure a sick man without further treatment.
