august 21. have just returned from a fine wild excursion across the range to mono lake, by way of the mono or bloody cañon pass. mr. delaney has been good to me all summer, lending a helping, sympathizing hand at every opportunity, as if my wild notions and rambles and studies were his own. he is one of those remarkable california men who have been overflowed and denuded and remodeled by the excitements of the gold fields, like the sierra landscapes by grinding ice, bringing the harder bosses and ridges of character into relief,—a tall, lean, big-boned, big-hearted irishman, educated for a priest in maynooth college,—lots of good in him, shining out now and then in this mountain light. recognizing my love of wild places, he told me one evening that i ought to go through bloody cañon, for he was sure i should find it wild enough. he had not been there himself, he said, but had heard many of his mining friends speak of it as the wildest of all the sierra passes. of course i was glad to go. it lies just[pg 215] to the east of our camp and swoops down from the summit of the range to the edge of the mono desert, making a descent of about four thousand feet in a distance of about four miles. it was known and traveled as a pass by wild animals and the indians long before its discovery by white men in the gold year of 1858, as is shown by old trails which come together at the head of it. the name may have been suggested by the red color of the metamorphic slates in which the cañon abounds, or by the blood stains on the rocks from the unfortunate animals that were compelled to slide and shuffle over the sharp-angled boulders.
early in the morning i tied my notebook and some bread to my belt, and strode away full of eager hope, feeling that i was going to have a glorious revel. the glacier meadows that lay along my way served to soothe my morning speed, for the sod was full of blue gentians and daisies, kalmia and dwarf vaccinium, calling for recognition as old friends, and i had to stop many times to examine the shining rocks over which the ancient glacier had passed with tremendous pressure, polishing them so well that they reflected the sunlight like glass in some places, while fine striæ, seen clearly through a lens, indicated the direction in which the ice had flowed. on some of[pg 216] the sloping polished pavements abrupt steps occur, showing that occasionally large masses of the rock had given way before the glacial pressure, as well as small particles; moraines, too, some scattered, others regular like long curving embankments and dams, occur here and there, giving the general surface of the region a young, new-made appearance. i watched the gradual dwarfing of the pines as i ascended, and the corresponding dwarfing of nearly all the rest of the vegetation. on the slopes of mammoth mountain, to the south of the pass, i saw many gaps in the woods reaching from the upper edge of the timber-line down to the level meadows, where avalanches of snow had descended, sweeping away every tree in their paths as well as the soil they were growing in, leaving the bedrock bare. the trees are nearly all uprooted, but a few that had been extremely well anchored in clefts of the rock were broken off near the ground. it seems strange at first sight that trees that had been allowed to grow for a century or more undisturbed should in their old age be thus swished away at a stroke. such avalanches can only occur under rare conditions of weather and snowfall. no doubt on some positions of the mountain slopes the inclination and smoothness of the surface is[pg 217] such that avalanches must occur every winter, or even after every heavy snowstorm, and of course no trees or even bushes can grow in their channels. i noticed a few clean-swept slopes of this kind. the uprooted trees that had grown in the pathway of what might be called “century avalanches” were piled in windrows, and tucked snugly against the wall-trees of the gaps, heads downward, excepting a few that were carried out into the open ground of the meadows, where the heads of the avalanches had stopped. young pines, mostly the two-leaved and the white-barked, are already springing up in these cleared gaps. it would be interesting to ascertain the age of these saplings, for thus we should gain a fair approximation to the year that the great avalanches occurred. perhaps most or all of them occurred the same winter. how glad i should be if free to pursue such studies!
near the summit at the head of the pass i found a species of dwarf willow lying perfectly flat on the ground, making a nice, soft, silky gray carpet, not a single stem or branch more than three inches high; but the catkins, which are now nearly ripe, stand erect and make a close, nearly regular gray growth, being larger than all the rest of the plants. some of these interesting dwarfs have only one catkin[pg 218]—willow bushes reduced to their lowest terms. i found patches of dwarf vaccinium also forming smooth carpets, closely pressed to the ground or against the sides of stones, and covered with round pink flowers in lavish abundance as if they had fallen from the sky like hail. a little higher, almost at the very head of the pass, i found the blue arctic daisy and purple-flowered bryanthus, the mountain’s own darlings, gentle mountaineers face to face with the sky, kept safe and warm by a thousand miracles, seeming always the finer and purer the wilder and stormier their homes. the trees, tough and resiny, seem unable to go a step farther; but up and up, far above the tree-line, these tender plants climb, cheerily spreading their gray and pink carpets right up to the very edges of the snow-banks in deep hollows and shadows. here, too, is the familiar robin, tripping on the flowery lawns, bravely singing the same cheery song i first heard when a boy in wisconsin newly arrived from old scotland. in this fine company sauntering enchanted, taking no heed of time, i at length entered the gate of the pass, and the huge rocks began to close around me in all their mysterious impressiveness. just then i was startled by a lot of queer, hairy, muffled creatures coming shuffling, shambling, wallow[pg 219]ing toward me as if they had no bones in their bodies. had i discovered them while they were yet a good way off, i should have tried to avoid them. what a picture they made contrasted with the others i had just been admiring. when i came up to them, i found that they were only a band of indians from mono on their way to yosemite for a load of acorns. they were wrapped in blankets made of the skins of sage-rabbits. the dirt on some of the faces seemed almost old enough and thick enough to have a geological significance; some were strangely blurred and divided into sections by seams and wrinkles that looked like cleavage joints, and had a worn abraded look as if they had lain exposed to the weather for ages. i tried to pass them without stopping, but they wouldn’t let me; forming a dismal circle about me, i was closely besieged while they begged whiskey or tobacco, and it was hard to convince them that i hadn’t any. how glad i was to get away from the gray, grim crowd and see them vanish down the trail! yet it seems sad to feel such desperate repulsion from one’s fellow beings, however degraded. to prefer the society of squirrels and woodchucks to that of our own species must surely be unnatural. so with a fresh breeze and a hill or mountain between us i[pg 220] must wish them godspeed and try to pray and sing with burns, “it’s coming yet, for a’ that, that man to man, the warld o’er, shall brothers be for a’ that.”
how the day passed i hardly know. by the map i have come only about ten or twelve miles, though the sun is already low in the west, showing how long i must have lingered, observing, sketching, taking notes among the glaciated rocks and moraines and alpine flower-beds.
at sundown the somber crags and peaks were inspired with the ineffable beauty of the alpenglow, and a solemn, awful stillness hushed everything in the landscape. then i crept into a hollow by the side of a small lake near the head of the cañon, smoothed a sheltered spot, and gathered a few pine tassels for a bed. after the short twilight began to fade i kindled a sunny fire, made a tin cupful of tea, and lay down to watch the stars. soon the night-wind began to flow from the snowy peaks overhead, at first only a gentle breathing, then gaining strength, in less than an hour rumbled in massive volume something like a boisterous stream in a boulder-choked channel, roaring and moaning down the cañon as if the work it had to do was tremendously important and fateful; and mingled with these storm[pg 221] tones were those of the waterfalls on the north side of the cañon, now sounding distinctly, now smothered by the heavier cataracts of air, making a glorious psalm of savage wildness. my fire squirmed and struggled as if ill at ease, for though in a sheltered nook, detached masses of icy wind often fell like icebergs on top of it, scattering sparks and coals, so that i had to keep well back to avoid being burned. but the big resiny roots and knots of the dwarf pine could neither be beaten out nor blown away, and the flames, now rushing up in long lances, now flattened and twisted on the rocky ground, roared as if trying to tell the storm stories of the trees they belonged to, as the light given out was telling the story of the sunshine they had gathered in centuries of summers.
the stars shone clear in the strip of sky between the huge dark cliffs; and as i lay recalling the lessons of the day, suddenly the full moon looked down over the cañon wall, her face apparently filled with eager concern, which had a startling effect, as if she had left her place in the sky and had come down to gaze on me alone, like a person entering one’s bedroom. it was hard to realize that she was in her place in the sky, and was looking abroad on half the globe, land and sea, mountains,[pg 222] plains, lakes, rivers, oceans, ships, cities with their myriads of inhabitants sleeping and waking, sick and well. no, she seemed to be just on the rim of bloody cañon and looking only at me. this was indeed getting near to nature. i remember watching the harvest moon rising above the oak trees in wisconsin apparently as big as a cart-wheel and not farther than half a mile distant. with these exceptions i might say i never before had seen the moon, and this night she seemed so full of life and so near, the effect was marvelously impressive and made me forget the indians, the great black rocks above me, and the wild uproar of the winds and waters making their way down the huge jagged gorge. of course i slept but little and gladly welcomed the dawn over the mono desert. by the time i had made a cupful of tea the sunbeams were pouring through the cañon, and i set forth, gazing eagerly at the tremendous walls of red slates savagely hacked and scarred and apparently ready to fall in avalanches great enough to choke the pass and fill up the chain of lakelets. but soon its beauties came to view, and i bounded lightly from rock to rock, admiring the polished bosses shining in the slant sunshine with glorious effect in the general roughness of moraines and avalanche taluses, even toward[pg 223] the head of the cañon near the highest fountains of the ice. here, too, are most of the lowly plant people seen yesterday on the other side of the divide now opening their beautiful eyes. none could fail to glory in nature’s tender care for them in so wild a place. the little ouzel is flitting from rock to rock along the rapid swirling cañon creek, diving for breakfast in icy pools, and merrily singing as if the huge rugged avalanche-swept gorge was the most delightful of all its mountain homes. besides a high fall on the north wall of the cañon, apparently coming direct from the sky, there are many narrow cascades, bright silvery ribbons zigzagging down the red cliffs, tracing the diagonal cleavage joints of the metamorphic slates, now contracted and out of sight, now leaping from ledge to ledge in filmy sheets through which the sunbeams sift. and on the main cañon creek, to which all these are tributary, is a series of small falls, cascades, and rapids extending all the way down to the foot of the cañon, interrupted only by the lakes in which the tossed and beaten waters rest. one of the finest of the cascades is outspread on the face of a precipice, its waters separated into ribbon-like strips, and woven into a diamond-like pattern by tracing the cleavage joints of the rock,[pg 224] while tufts of bryanthus, grass, sedge, saxifrage form beautiful fringes. who could imagine beauty so fine in so savage a place? gardens are blooming in all sorts of nooks and hollows,—at the head alpine eriogonums, erigerons, saxifrages, gentians, cowania, bush primula; in the middle region larkspur, columbine, orthocarpus, castilleia, harebell, epilobium, violets, mints, yarrow; near the foot sunflowers, lilies, brier rose, iris, lonicera, clematis.
one of the smallest of the cascades, which i name the bower cascade, is in the lower region of the pass, where the vegetation is snowy and luxuriant. wild rose and dogwood form dense masses overarching the stream, and out of this bower the creek, grown strong with many indashing tributaries, leaps forth into the light, and descends in a fluted curve thick-sown with crisp flashing spray. at the foot of the cañon there is a lake formed in part at least by the damming of the stream by a terminal moraine. the three other lakes in the cañon are in basins eroded from the solid rock, where the pressure of the glacier was greatest, and the most resisting portions of the basin rims are beautifully, tellingly polished. below moraine lake at the foot of the cañon there are several old lake-basins lying[pg 225] between the large lateral moraines which extend out into the desert. these basins are now completely filled up by the material carried in by the streams, and changed to dry sandy flats covered mostly by grass and artemisia and sun-loving flowers. all these lower lake-basins were evidently formed by terminal moraine dams deposited where the receding glacier had lingered during short periods of less waste, or greater snowfall, or both.
looking up the cañon from the warm sunny edge of the mono plain my morning ramble seems a dream, so great is the change in the vegetation and climate. the lilies on the bank of moraine lake are higher than my head, and the sunshine is hot enough for palms. yet the snow round the arctic gardens at the summit of the pass is plainly visible, only about four miles away, and between lie specimen zones of all the principal climates of the globe. in little more than an hour one may swoop down from winter to summer, from an arctic to a torrid region, through as great changes of climate as one would encounter in traveling from labrador to florida.
the indians i had met near the head of the cañon had camped at the foot of it the night before they made the ascent, and i found their fire still smoking on the side of a small tributary[pg 226] stream near moraine lake; and on the edge of what is called the mono desert, four or five miles from the lake, i came to a patch of elymus, or wild rye, growing in magnificent waving clumps six or eight feet high, bearing heads six to eight inches long. the crop was ripe, and indian women were gathering the grain in baskets by bending down large handfuls, beating out the seed, and fanning it in the wind. the grains are about five eighths of an inch long, dark-colored and sweet. i fancy the bread made from it must be as good as wheat bread. a fine squirrelish employment this wild grain gathering seems, and the women were evidently enjoying it, laughing and chattering and looking almost natural, though most indians i have seen are not a whit more natural in their lives than we civilized whites. perhaps if i knew them better i should like them better. the worst thing about them is their uncleanliness. nothing truly wild is unclean. down on the shore of mono lake i saw a number of their flimsy huts on the banks of streams that dash swiftly into that dead sea,—mere brush tents where they lie and eat at their ease. some of the men were feasting on buffalo berries, lying beneath the tall bushes now red with fruit. the berries are rather insipid, but they must needs be wholesome, since for days and weeks the in[pg 227]dians, it is said, eat nothing else. in the season they in like manner depend chiefly on the fat larvæ of a fly that breeds in the salt water of the lake, or on the big fat corrugated caterpillars of a species of silkworm that feeds on the leaves of the yellow pine. occasionally a grand rabbit-drive is organized and hundreds are slain with clubs on the lake shore, chased and frightened into a dense crowd by dogs, boys, girls, men and women, and rings of sage brush fire, when of course they are quickly killed. the skins are made into blankets. in the autumn the more enterprising of the hunters bring in a good many deer, and rarely a wild sheep from the high peaks. antelopes used to be abundant on the desert at the base of the interior mountain-ranges. sage hens, grouse, and squirrels help to vary their wild diet of worms; pine nuts also from the small interesting pinus monophylla, and good bread and good mush are made from acorns and wild rye. strange to say, they seem to like the lake larvæ best of all. long windrows are washed up on the shore, which they gather and dry like grain for winter use. it is said that wars, on account of encroachments on each other’s worm-grounds, are of common occurrence among the various tribes and families. each claims a certain marked portion of the shore.[pg 228] the pine nuts are delicious—large quantities are gathered every autumn. the tribes of the west flank of the range trade acorns for worms and pine nuts. the squaws carry immense loads on their backs across the rough passes and down the range, making journeys of about forty or fifty miles each way.
the desert around the lake is surprisingly flowery. in many places among the sage bushes i saw mentzelia, abronia, aster, bigelovia, and gilia, all of which seemed to enjoy the hot sunshine. the abronia, in particular, is a delicate, fragrant, and most charming plant.
opposite the mouth of the cañon a range of volcanic cones extends southward from the lake, rising abruptly out of the desert like a chain of mountains. the largest of the cones are about twenty-five hundred feet high above the lake level, have well-formed craters, and all of them are evidently comparatively recent additions to the landscape. at a distance of a few miles they look like heaps of loose ashes that have never been blest by either rain or snow, but, for a’ that and a’ that, yellow pines are climbing their gray slopes, trying to clothe them and give beauty for ashes. a country of wonderful contrasts. hot deserts bounded by snow-laden mountains,—cinders and ashes scattered on glacier-polished pavements,[pg 229]—frost and fire working together in the making of beauty. in the lake are several volcanic islands, which show that the waters were once mingled with fire.
glad to get back to the green side of the mountains, though i have greatly enjoyed the gray east side and hope to see more of it. reading these grand mountain manuscripts displayed through every vicissitude of heat and cold, calm and storm, upheaving volcanoes and down-grinding glaciers, we see that everything in nature called destruction must be creation—a change from beauty to beauty.
our glacier meadow camp north of the soda springs seems more beautiful every day. the grass covers all the ground though the leaves are thread-like in fineness, and in walking on the sod it seems like a plush carpet of marvelous richness and softness, and the purple panicles brushing against one’s feet are not felt. this is a typical glacier meadow, occupying the basin of a vanished lake, very definitely bounded by walls of the arrowy two-leaved pines drawn up in a handsome orderly array like soldiers on parade. there are many other meadows of the same kind hereabouts imbedded in the woods. the main big meadows along the river are the same in general and extend with but little interruption for ten or[pg 230] twelve miles, but none i have seen are so finely finished and perfect as this one. it is richer in flowering plants than the prairies of wisconsin and illinois were when in all their wild glory. the showy flowers are mostly three species of gentian, a purple and yellow orthocarpus, a golden-rod or two, a small blue pentstemon almost like a gentian, potentilla, ivesia, pedicularis, white violet, kalmia, and bryanthus. there are no coarse weedy plants. through this flowery lawn flows a stream silently gliding, swirling, slipping as if careful not to make the slightest noise. it is only about three feet wide in most places, widening here and there into pools six or eight feet in diameter with no apparent current, the banks bossily rounded by the down-curving mossy sod, grass panicles over-leaning like miniature pine trees, and rugs of bryanthus spreading here and there over sunken boulders. at the foot of the meadow the stream, rich with the juices of the plants it has refreshed, sings merrily down over shelving rock ledges on its way to the tuolumne river. the sublime, massive mount dana and its companions, green, red, and white, loom impressively above the pines along the eastern horizon; a range or spur of gray rugged granite crags and mountains on the north; the curiously crested and battlemented mount hoffman on the west;[pg 231] and the cathedral range on the south with its grand cathedral peak, cathedral spires, unicorn peak, and several others, gray and pointed or massively rounded.
