coming into sidmouth, you see at once that you are arrived in a superior place, and, before you are perceived, make haste to brush the dust off your boots, put your headgear straight, and, in general making yourself look as respectable as may be possible to a rambler in the byways, step forth with a jaunty air; just as the postboys in the old days, driving my lord home, although their horses might be exhausted, always “kept a gallop for the avenue.”
sidmouth was the first of devonshire seaside resorts, and had arrived at that condition long before thackeray wrote of it as “baymouth,” in pendennis. do you remember how “pen flung stones into the sea, but it still kept coming on”? it seems hardly worth while to have said as much, but having been said, let it be put on record that it has lost none of its ancient courage in the meanwhile, and in spite of every intimidation, will still “come on” if you follow pen’s example; unless, indeed, you choose the ebb, when, strange to say, it will retreat. it is believed that this odd phenomenon has been observed elsewhere.
[43]
before torquay, teignmouth, exmouth, and other places had begun to develop, sidmouth was a place of fashion, and the signs of that early favour are still abundantly evident in the town, which is largely a place of those prim-frontaged, white-faced houses we associate with the early years of the nineteenth century. it belongs, in fact, to the next period following that of lyme regis, and has just reached the point of being very quaint and old-world and interesting, as we and ours will have become in the course of another century. the stucco of sidmouth is not as the plaster of torquay, any more than that of park lane is like the plaster of notting hill. it is of the more suave, kid-glove texture we associate with park lane, is white-painted, and is only a distant cousin of the later plaster of notting hill and torquay, which is grey, and painted in wholly immoral shades of drab and dun, green, pink, and red; in anything, indeed, but the virginal white of sidmouth.
and now, in this town which ought to be jealously preserved as a precious specimen of what the watering place of close upon a century ago was like, the restless evidences of our own time are becoming plentiful; older houses giving way to new, of the pretentious character so well suited to the age, and in red brick and terra-cotta; the inevitable architectural reach-me-downs that have obtained ever since bedford park set the vogue.
why, confound the purblind, batlike stupidity[44] of it! red brick is not wanted at sidmouth, where the cliffs are the very reddest of all devon. we need not give the old builders of white-faced sidmouth any credit for artistic perceptions, for they could not choose but build in the fashion of their age, and everywhere alike, after our own use and wont; but, by chance, they did exactly the right thing here, and in midst of this richest red of the cliffs, this emerald green of the exquisite foliage, this yellow of the beach, deep blue of the sea, and cerulean blue above, planted their terraces and isolated squares of cool, contrasting whiteness. it was a white period, if you come to consider it, a time of book-muslin and simplicity, both natural and affected, and although sidmouth was fashionable it was not flamboyant.
to this place, for health and quiet, on account of their embarrassed finances, and for the sake of their infant daughter, the princess victoria, then only a few months old, the duke and duchess of kent came in the autumn of 1819, and took up their residence at the pretty cottage in woolacombe glen, still standing at the western extremity of the town. here, quite unexpectedly, for he was a robust man, and but fifty-three years of age, the duke died, january 23rd, 1820, from inflammation of the lungs, the result of a chill. croker wrote of the event: “you will be surprised at the duke of kent’s death. he was the strongest of the strong. never before ill in all his life, and now to die of a cold when half the kingdom have colds with impunity. it was very bad luck indeed. it[45] reminds me of æsop’s fable of the oak and the reed.”
sidmouth continued to grow in favour for years afterwards, and only began to experience neglect when the opening of the railways to the west discovered other beautiful spots in devonshire. next to the royal association already recounted, sidmouth most prides itself on the fact that in 1831 the grand duchess helene of russia for three months resided at fortfield terrace. without recourse to a book of reference i do not quite know who exactly was this grand duchess, and am not so impressed as i doubtless ought to be. nor do i think any one else is impressed; but the local historian will never forget the circumstance, and indeed it is devoutly kept in remembrance by the black effigy of a double-headed eagle on the frontage of the terrace.
the railway that took away the prosperity of sidmouth is now instrumental in keeping it prosperously select, for it is something of a business to arrive in sidmouth by train, and a great deterrent to trippers to have to change at sidmouth junction and, journeying by a branch line, to be deposited on the platform of sidmouth station, one mile from the town.
sidmouth is in these days recovering something of its own. not perhaps precisely in the same way, for the days of early nineteenth-century aristocratic fashion can never again be repeated on this earth. but a new vogue has come to it, and it is as exclusive in its new way as it was in[46] the old; if not, indeed, more exclusive. more exclusive, more moneyed, not at all well-born, jewelled up to the eyes, and only wanting the final touch of being ringed through the nose. oddly enough, it is a world quite apart from the little town; hidden from it, for the most part, in the hotels of the place. most gorgeous and expensive hotels, standing in extensive grounds of their own, and all linked together in a business amalgamation, with the object of keeping up prices and shutting out competition.
it is not easy to see for what purpose the patrons of these places come to sidmouth, unless to come down to breakfast dressed as though one were going to a ball, and dressing thrice a day and sitting in the grounds all day long be objects sufficient. from this point of view, sidmouth town is a kind of dependence to the hotels, an accidental, little known, unessential hem or fringe, where one cannot wear ball-dresses and tiaras without exciting unpleasant criticism.
bullion without birth, money without manners are in process of revolutionising some aspects of sidmouth, and it is quite in accord with the general trend of things that the newest, the largest, the reddest, and the most insistent of the hotels should have shoved a great hulking shoulder up against the pretty, rambling, white-faced cottage in woolacombe glen, where some earliest infant months of queen victoria were passed, and that it should have exploited the association by calling itself the “victoria.”
[47]
there is no river mouth at all at sidmouth, and the sid, which so plentifully christens places on its banks, has not water enough to force its way to sea, as a river should. instead, it abjectly crawls through the pebbles of the beach, as though wishful of escaping observation; but when storms heap up sand and shingle and the sid is denied even this humble outlet, then it becomes an urgent matter to hire labour for the speedy digging out a passage, lest the low-lying town should be flooded.
the sea-front of sidmouth is, indeed, yet an unsolved problem. many centuries ago, there seems to have been a harbour where the beach[48] and the walk of the esplanade now stand, the constant easterly drift of shingle being kept well out to sea by a cliff projecting from the western end of the town, where its last remains, the chit rock, stood until 1824. but that protecting headland was gradually worn away and by sure degrees the river mouth was choked with shingle. it is much the same story as that which belongs to the axe and to other rivers and obliterated harbours of south devon.
many projects have from time to time been set afoot to remedy this state of affairs, but without success. a plan to excavate the river mouth and form a harbour was mooted in 1811, and another in 1825. again, in 1836, an attempt was made to construct a harbour pier on the site of the chit rock, but was soon abandoned. even the more modest attempt made in 1876, to build a pier on either side of the river mouth—or rather, where the river mouth should be—failed; and it seems as though what was long ago written of sidmouth will long continue to be true of it: “in times past a port of some account, now choaked with chisel and sands by the vicissitudes of the tides.”
at present, sidmouth beach is open and exposed, like that of seaton, but even when turner made his drawing for the projected work on the “harbours of england,” although there was certainly nothing even remotely like a harbour here, the chit rock remained, to afford some slight protection.
[49]
but the chit rock itself has disappeared. it vanished in that terrible november storm of 1824, of whose traces there seems to be no end on the southern coasts. with the rock went a number of cottages, and with the cottages almost went the inhabitants, among them the real original dame partington, who was rash enough to attempt to mop up the waves.
mrs. partington might never have attained immortality, had it not been for sydney smith, who in 1831 compared the house of lords, rejecting the reform bill, with her. reform, he said, would come. the lords were like dame partington at sidmouth, who attempted to keep out the[50] atlantic with a mop, and failed. “she was excellent at a slop or puddle, but should never have meddled with a tempest.”
the old parish church was rebuilt, except the tower, in 1859. it was a rather wanton work, and to some minds the purely secular use made of a portion of its stones may be shocking. those of the most sacred part of the building, the chancel, were sold and used in the erection of a singular-looking villa close at hand, named from this circumstance, “the old chancel.”
there can be few more charming nooks than that of woolacombe glen, where the cottage of princess victoria’s early infancy still stands; a white-fronted, long, low, rambling building set in midst of the most cool and delightful lawns and overhung by trees. but, charming though it be, the glen is not what it was at that time, for the broad road leading down to the esplanade is a modern innovation constructed on the site of other lawns, through which a little stream flowed to the sea. alas! for that clear-running woolabrook. it has been compelled into an underground pipe. and—a last little irritating pin-prick—the “woolacombe” in the name of the glen is now shorn of the peculiarly devonian connecting and softening a between the syllables, and has become merely “woolcombe.” how horrid the deed, and how excruciating the thought that, if the same amputating process were extended throughout the county, we should exchange babbacombe for “babbcombe,” lannacombe for “lanncombe,”[51] ellacombe for “ellcombe,” and the less lovely like of them!
high peak, the tremendous hill and cliff that shuts in sidmouth on the west, is well named. the road up to the top of it is a mile of exhausting gradients, with fortunately a little grassy ledge on the way, whence you look down on to a distant beach and along the pebbly coast to ladram bay and otterton point. ladram bay is reached either by cliff-top or along that tiring beach; or, greatly to be recommended above all other courses, by boat from sidmouth, one of whose boatmen, with the pachydermatous hands that would scarce feel any effect from rowing fifty miles, will take you there if you give him a chance.
ladram bay was undoubtedly made expressly for picnics. there cannot be the least question of it. geologists write profound things about[52] the raised beach and the pebbles—triassic, silurian, or what not jargon—that compose it, but nature most certainly in prophetic mood designed beach, natural arch, and caves for lunch and laughter, and as a romantic background for flirtations.
