the time was november, 1892. st. louis, as i stepped off the train that sunday evening, after leaving chicago in cold dreary state, seemed a warmer clime. the air was soft, almost balmy; but st. louis could be cold enough too, as i soon discovered. the station, then at twelfth and poplar (the new union station at eighteenth and market was then building), an antiquated affair of brick and stone, with the tracks stretching in rows in front of it and reached by board walks laid at right angles to them, seemed unspeakably shabby and inconvenient to me after the better ones of chicago. st. louis, i said to myself, was not as good as chicago. chicago was rough, powerful, active; st. louis was sleepy and slow. this was due, however, to the fact that i entered it of a sunday evening and all its central portion was still. contrasted with chicago it was not a metropolis at all. while rich and successful it was a creature of another mood and of slower growth. i learned in time to like it very much, but for the things that set it apart from other cities, not for the things by which it sought to rival them.
but on that evening how dull and commonplace it seemed—how slow after the wave-like pulsation of energy that appeared to shake the very air of chicago.
i made my way to a hotel called the silver moon, recommended to me by my mentor and sponsor, where one could get a room for a dollar, a meal for twenty-five cents. outside of joseph b. mccullagh, editor of the globe-democrat, and edmond o’neill, former editor of the republic to whom i bore a letter, there was no one to whom i might commend myself. i did not care. i was in a strange city at last! i was out in the world now really, away from my family. my great interest was in life as a spectacle, this singing, rhythmic, mystic state in which i found myself. life, the great sea! life, the wondrous, colorful riddle!
after eating a bite in the almost darkened restaurant of this hotel i at once went out into pine street and stared at the street-cars, yellow, red, orange, green, brown, labeled choteau avenue, tower grove, jefferson avenue, carondelet. my first business was to find the globe-democrat building, a prosperous eight-story brownstone and brick affair standing at sixth and pine. i stared at this building in the night, looking through the great plate glass windows at an onyx-lined office, and finally went in and bought a sunday paper.
i went to my room and studied this paper—then slept, thinking of my coming introduction in the morning. i was awakened by the clangor of countless cars. going to the stationary washstand i was struck at once by the yellowness of the water, a dark yellowish-brown, which deposited a yellow sediment in the glass. was that the best st. louis could afford? i asked myself in youthful derision. i drank it just the same, went down to breakfast and then out into the city to see what i should see. i bought a globe-democrat (a republican party paper, by the way: an anachronism of age and change of ownership) and a republic, the one morning democratic paper, and then walked to sixth and pine to have another look at the building in which i was to work. i wandered along broadway and fourth street, the street of the old courthouse; sought out the mississippi river and stared at it, that vast river lying between banks of yellow mud; then i went back to the office of the globe-democrat, for it was nearing the time when its editor-in-chief might choose to put in an appearance.
joseph b. mccullagh (“little mac” of eugene field’s verse) was a short, thick, aggressive, rather pugnacious and defensive person of irish extraction. he was short, sturdy, napoleonic, ursine rather than leonine. i was instantly drawn and thrown back by his stiff reserve. a negro elevator boy had waved me along a marble hall on the seventh floor to a room at the end, where i was met by an office boy who took in my name and then ushered me into the great man’s presence. i found him at a roll-top desk in a minute office, and he was almost buried in discarded newspapers. i learned afterward that he would never allow these to be removed until he was all but crowded out. i was racked with nervousness. whatever high estimate i had conceived of myself had oozed out by the time i reached his door. i was now surveyed by keen gray irish eyes from under bushy brows.
“um, yuss! um, yuss!” was all he deigned to say. “see mr. mitchell in the city room, mr. mitchell—um, yuss. your salary will be—um—um—twenty dollars to begin with” (he was chewing a cigar and mumbled his words), and he turned to his papers.
not a word, not a sign, that he knew i had ever written a line worth while. i returned to the handsome city room, and found only empty desks. i sat down and waited fully three-quarters of an hour, examining old papers and staring out of the windows over the roofs until mr. mitchell appeared.
like his employer, he was thick-set, a bigger man physically but less attractive. he had a round, closely-cropped head and a severe and scowling expression. he reminded me of squeers in nicholas nickleby. a savage fat man—can anything be worse? he went to his desk with a quick stride when he entered, never noticing me. when i approached and explained who i was and why i was there he scarcely gave me a glance.
“the afternoon assignments won’t be ready till twelve-thirty,” he commented drily. “better take a seat in the next room.”
it was then only eleven-thirty, and i went into the next room and waited. it was empty but deliciously warm on this chilly day. how different from mcennis, i thought. evidently being called to a newspaper by telegram was not to be interpreted as auguring that one was to lie on a bed of roses.
a little bit afraid to leave for this hour, in case he might call, i hung about the two windows of this room staring at the new city. how wonderful it seemed, now this morning, after the quiet of the night before, how strong and forceful in this november air. the streets and sky were full of smoke; there was a clangor of street-car gongs below and the rumble of endless trucks. a block or two away loomed up a tall building of the newer order, twelve stories at least. most of the buildings were small, old family dwellings turned into stores. i wondered about the life of the city, its charms, its prospects. what did it hold for me? how long would i remain here? would this paper afford me any real advancement? could i make a great impression and rise?
as i was thus meditating several newspaper men came in. one was a short bustling fellow with a golden-brown mustache and a shock of curly brown hair, whose name i subsequently learned was hazard—a fitting name for a newspaper reporter. he wore a fedora hat, a short cream-colored overcoat which had many wrinkles about the skirts in the back, and striped trousers. he came in with a brisk air, slightly skipping his feet as he walked, and took a desk, which was nothing more than a segment of one long desk fastened to the wall and divided by varnished partitions of light oak. as soon as he was seated he opened a drawer and took out a pipe, which he briskly filled and lighted, and then began to examine some papers he had in his pockets. i liked his looks.
there sauntered in next a pale creature in a steel-gray suit of not too new a look, who took a seat directly opposite the first comer. his left hand, in a brown glove, hung at his side; apparently it was of wood or stuffed leather. later there arrived a negro of very intellectual bearing, who took a seat next the second arrival; then a stout, phlegmatic-looking man with dark eyes, dark hair and skin, which gave me a feeling of something saturnine in his disposition. the next arrival was a small skippity man, bustling about like a little mouse, and having somewhat of a mousy look in his eyes, who seemed to be attached to the main city editorial room in some capacity.
a curious company gradually filed in, fourteen or fifteen all told. i gave up trying to catalogue them and turned to look out the window. the little bustling creature came through the room several times, looked at me without deigning to speak however, and finally put his head in at the door and whispered to the attendant group: “the book’s ready.” at this there was an immediate stir, nearly all of the men got up and one by one they filed into the next room. assuming that they were going to consult the assignment book, i followed, but my name was not down. in chicago my city editor usually called each individual to him in person; here each man was supposed to discover his assignment from a written page. i returned to the reporters’ room when i found my name was not down, wondering what i should be used for.
the others were not long gone before i was sought by the mouse—hugh keller hartung by name—who whispered: “the city editor wants to see you”; and then for the second time i faced this gloomy man, whom i had already begun not only to dislike but to fear. he was dark and savage, in his mood to me at least, whether unconsciously so or not i do not know. his broad face, set with a straight full nose and a wide thin-lipped mouth, gave him a frozen cromwellian outline. he seemed a queer, unliterary type to be attached to so remarkable a journalist as mccullagh.
“there’s been some trouble down at this number,” he said, handing me a slip of paper on which an address was written. “a fight, i think. see if you can find out anything about it.”
i hurried out, immensely relieved to get into the fresh air of the city. i finally made my way to the place, only to find a vacant lot. thinking there might be some mistake, i went to the nearest police station and inquired. nothing was known. fearing to fall down on my first assignment, i returned to the lot, but could learn nothing. gradually it began to dawn upon me that this might be merely a trial assignment, a bright idea of the frowning fat man, a bearings-finder. i had already conceived a vast contempt for him, a stumbling-block in my path, i thought. no wonder he came to hate me, as i learned afterward he did.
i wandered back through the city, looking at the strange little low houses (it was the region between the river and north broadway, about a mile above the courthouse), and marveling at the darksome character of the stores. never in my life had i seen such old buildings, all brick and all crowded together, with solid wood or iron shutters, modeled after those of france from whence its original settlers came and having something of the dourness of the poorer quarters of paris about them, and windows composed of very small panes of glass, evidences of the influence of france, i am sure. their interiors seemed so dark, so redolent of an old-time life. the streets also appeared old-fashioned with their cobblestones, their twists and turns and the very little space that lay between the curbs. i felt as though the people must be different from those in chicago, less dynamic, less aggressive.
when i reached the office i found that the city editor, mr. mitchell, had gone. the little mousy individual was at one of the parti-divisions of the wall desk, near mr. mitchell’s big one, diving into a mass of copy the while he scratched his ear or trifled with his pencil or jumped mousily about in his seat.
“is mr. mitchell about?” i inquired.
“no,” replied the other briskly; “he never gets in much before four o’clock. anything you want to know? i’m his assistant.”
he did not dare say “assistant city editor”; his superior would not have tolerated one.
“he sent me out to this place, but it’s only a vacant lot.”
“did you look all around the neighborhood? sometimes you can get news of these things in the neighborhood, you know, when you can’t get it right at the spot. i often do that.”
“yes,” i answered. “i inquired all about there.”
“it would be just like tobe to send you out there, though,” he went on feverishly and timidly, “just to break you in. he does things like that. you’re the new man from chicago, aren’t you—dreiser?”
“yes, but how did you know?”
“he said you were coming,” he replied, jerking his left thumb over his shoulder. “my name’s hartung, hugh keller hartung.”
he was so respectful, almost fearsome in his references to his superior that i could not help smiling. now that i had my bearings, i did not feel so keenly about mr. mitchell. he seemed dull.
“i suppose you’ll find st. louis a little slower than chicago,” he went on, “but we have some of the biggest newspaper stories here you ever saw. you remember the preller trunk mystery, don’t you, and that big missouri-pacific train robbery last year?”
i recalled both distinctly. “is that so?” i commented, thinking of my career in chicago and hoping for a duplication of it here.
heavy steps were heard in the hall just outside, and mr. hartung jumped to his work like a frightened mouse; on the instant his head was fairly pulled down between his shoulders and his nose pressed over his work. he seemed to shrivel and shrink, and i wondered why. i went into the next room just as mr. tobias mitchell entered. when i explained that the address he had given me was a vacant lot he merely looked up at me quizzically, suspiciously.
“couldn’t find it, eh? somebody must have given me the wrong tip. wait in the next room. i’ll call you when i want you.”
i returned to that empty room, from which i could hear the industrious pencil of mr. hartung and the occasional throat-clearing cough of mr. mitchell brooding among his papers.