we came to an anchor near the middle of the roadstead in seamanlike fashion, every sail being furled before the anchor was dropped, and the old tub brought-to as if going into dock. then, as it was understood that our cargo was ready for us, preparations were immediately made for its reception. a stout spar was rigged across the forecastle, protruding twenty-five feet on the starboard side, with a big block lashed to its end through which ran a five-inch rope. a derrick was rigged over the main-hatch with a double chain purchase attached, and a powerful winch bolted to the deck, round which the chain revolved. numbers of iron spikes (dogs), with rings in them, were fitted with tails of rope about three feet long, and lengths of hawser cut for "mother-ropes." the rafts of mahogany and cedar logs are made by driving a tailed "dog" firmly into the side of each log a foot or so from the end. as each one is thus spiked it is secured by a "rolling-hitch" of the tail to the "mother-rope" (cabo madre of the spaniards), until as many are collected as required. this operation is always performed in the river just inside the bar, where the logs are sorted after their long drift from the interior. then the raftsmen, who are equipped with capacious boats pulling six oars, and carrying about three hundred fathoms of grass rope, secure one end of their tow-line to the mother-rope, and pull away seaward in the direction of the ship, the steersman casting out line as they go. arriving at the end of their tether they anchor, and all hands turn-to with a will to haul the raft up to the boat. this operation is repeated as often as is necessary to cover the three or four miles between ship and shore, until at last the long line of tumbling logs are brought alongside their destined vessel, and secured to the big spar on the forecastle. at whatever time they arrive all hands must turn out to receive them, and on board the american ships the uproar used to be fearful; oaths, yells, and showers of belaying pins rattling against the bulwarks, bearing eloquent testimony to the persuasive methods of discipline in vogue on board of them. the stevedores, or stowers of the timber, arrived on board shortly after we anchored; like the rest of the population, they were a mixed crowd of latins and greeks, but all speaking spanish. owing to their presence we fared much better than we should otherwise have done, for they were fed by the ship, and by no means to be offered any such carrion as usually fell to our lot. their pay was high, five dollars a day; but they certainly worked well, besides being very skilful. with our first raft there was trouble. flynn, the "blue-nose" irishman, was sent upon the uncertain row of logs alongside to sling them; but after several narrow escapes from drowning or getting crushed between the rolling ponderous masses, some of them over five tons in weight, he clambered on deck again, and flatly refused to risk his bones any longer. nor, in spite of the skipper's fury, could any other man be persuaded to attempt so dangerous a task. finally, the old man turned to one of the greeks of the stevedore gang, and ordered him to act as slingsman. "oah yez, capane," said antonio, "sposa you giva me eight dolla day." after a little more language the old man said, "all right, 'tonio, i'll give you eight dollars. an' i'll stop it out of your pay, you skulking sojer you" (to flynn). which was mirthful, seeing that eight dollars represented a fortnight's pay for our shipmate.

however, antonio proved a most expert raftsman, being almost amphibious and smart as any eel. but the work was exceedingly severe. lifting such great masses of timber tried the old sticks terribly, and when she rolled suddenly to windward, tearing the log out of water with a jerk, you almost expected her to fall apart. when, at last, the log showed above the rail, if she started her antics, all hands near stood by for a run, for the log would suddenly slue inboard, and come across the deck like a gigantic battering ram. the whole process was a series of hairbreadth escapes. down in the hold, where the stevedores toiled with tackles, rousing the logs about, there were many casualties; but these dagoes never seemed to care. for every hurt they had one remedy: plenty of "caña," a fiery white spirit, fresh from the still. poured into a gash, or rubbed on a bruise, with half a pint to drink, this vitriolic stuff seemed to meet every emergency.

the enormous rate of pay prevailing here during the height of the season, had the inevitable effect of causing frequent desertions; so that as much as three hundred dollars was freely offered for the run to new york or europe for seamen. consequently a vigilant watch was kept by the officers of ships, lest any of the crew should take french leave, although getting ashore was difficult. we, however, had a very large long-boat, for which there was no room on deck, and, contrary to the usual practice it was put overboard, and kept astern at the end of a small hawser. the temptation was too much for my friend joe, who, accompanied by the eurasian, slipped over the bows one dark night, and swam aft to the unwieldly ark, unheard by the officer on watch. poor fellow! he couldn't keep awake night and day. at daybreak, when the skipper came on deck, and looked over the taffrail, always his first move, the idle rope hung down disconsolately—the long-boat was gone! seizing his glass he mounted to the cross-trees, and scanned the horizon, discovering the derelict far out at sea. the gig was lowered and manned by flynn and jem, the skipper himself taking the tiller, and off they went in pursuit. it was nearly noon when they returned, towing the runaway, and half dead with thirst and fatigue. then only did the skipper learn that two of his best men were gone. in his hurry he had not stayed to inquire, and now his rage knew no bounds. judge, then, how he felt when he discovered, by the aid of his glass, that the deserters were no further away than our nearest neighbour, an american brig that lay less than half a mile away. anger overcame his prudence, and he actually went alongside the yank, intending to go on board and claim his men. he was received with contumely, the american skipper refusing to allow him over the rail. his state of mind on his return must have been pitiable; but he sought his cabin without a word, and remained there all the rest of the day.

in some way the news spread round the fleet, and that evening we were boarded by the captain of the panuca, a liverpool barque, who came to condole and relate his woeful experiences. he said that his men had refused duty altogether, upon which he was advised to take them ashore to the "commandant," who would deal with them in summary fashion. accordingly he took them, finding the soi-disant official to be a stalwart greek, who held the position by virtue of his election by his fellow rascals, for law there was none. el señor commandante, however, told him to leave his men with him, and he would soon bring them to their bearings. very reluctantly he followed this advice, since he had no choice, and returned on board, cursing his stupidity for ever taking them there. to his joyful surprise they returned on board, next morning, as meek in their demeanour as if they had, indeed, been taught a lesson. but two nights afterwards there was a desperate hubbub raised, during which the rascals looted the cabin, and, getting into the whale-boat hanging at the davits, went ashore with their plunder. they had strictly followed the instructions given them by the commandant, who made them a handsome present in return for the fine boat they brought him. when the half-frantic captain arrived on shore, and learned the truth, he was so enraged that he actually tried to take his boat off the beach where she lay, narrowly escaping being shot for his pains. this tale, poured into our skipper's sympathetic ears, somewhat reconciled him to his loss, since he still retained his boat.

but one disaster succeeded another. a curious malady of the feet attacked every one of the crew. it caused the legs and feet to swell enormously, and culminated in a suppurating wound horribly painful and slow to heal. then a deadly encounter took place between the cook and you sing, which was only settled by sending the chinaman ashore, since the two seemed bent upon murdering one another. worst of all, when the ship was half-full, the timber ceased to arrive. ship after ship sailed away, until there were only three of us left; and the season of the "northers" being close upon us, when those destructive gales blow right home all along the coast, every one began to look very glum. the unfortunate invalid, george harris, after lingering longer than any one could have believed possible, was set free from his misery at last, to the manifest relief of his shipmates, who were heartily tired of his taking so long to die. sounds horrible, doesn't it? but it is the naked truth. under such circumstances as ours were, the better part of humanity generally disappears, or only shines in individuals who are often, almost always, powerless to help.

miserable as the time had been, it was not all lost upon me. as far as the hardship went it was no worse, if as bad, as i had endured in the london streets; and here, at any rate, it was always warm. i had learned to chatter spanish fluently, although much of it i would gladly unlearn if it were possible, for i have always noticed that, in picking up a language colloquially, one learns easiest and remembers longest the vilenesses. and how vile the latin tongues can be, few englishmen can realize. i did not grow much, not being well-enough nourished; but i was wiry, hard as nails, and almost as brown as an indian, being half naked from want of clothes. at last, one morning, my uncle sent for me. although unconscious of any offence i was terribly frightened, but went, shaking with dread, to meet him. to my utter amazement he spoke kindly, saying that the ship was so old, and the season so late, that he feared there was great danger of her never reaching home. therefore he had decided to send me on board the barque discoverer, commanded by a friend of his, in which, as she was a splendid vessel, i should be far safer. she was to sail the next day, so i must go on board that night. i only said, "thank you, sir," but volumes could not have expressed my gratitude. to leave this awful den, to be once more treated to a kind word occasionally—for, since joe was gone and jem had[59] been driven ashore (which i have forgotten to mention), i had no friends at all on board; the prospect was too delightful for contemplation.

my wardrobe being on my back i was spared the labour of packing up. farewells there were none to say, although, being naturally a tenderhearted little chap, i should have been glad of a parting god-speed. but no one said anything to me as i bundled into the boat and was rowed alongside my new home. as soon as i climbed on board i was met with a very chorus of welcome. the warmth of my reception amazed me, accustomed as i had been for so long to the miserable state of affairs on board my old ship. but i soon overcame a strong temptation to cry for joy, and, steadily choking down the lump in my throat, set about taking stock of my new vessel. to my inexperience she seemed a most noble ship. everything was on a much finer scale than anything i had yet seen in my brief travels. she had been built for the purpose of arctic exploration, and consequently presented a somewhat clumsy appearance outside from the doubling of the bow planks and stern bends, and the diagonal oaken sheathing with which she was protected. inboard, though, she was roomy, clear, and comfortable as could be imagined, while her rigging and spars were all of the very best, and in tip-top condition.

quarters were assigned to me in the comfortable cabin of the steward, whose helper i was supposed to be, although, from the first, i had the free run of the ship fore and aft. next morning we weighed with a gentle favouring breeze, homeward bound. but i soon discovered that there was one drawback to all this comfort—the captain was a confirmed drunkard. while the process of getting under weigh was going on, he was mooning about the deck with a fishy eye and an aimless amble, getting in everybody's way, and causing much confusion by giving ridiculous orders. had he confined himself to that all would have been well, for the men humoured him good-temperedly, and took no notice of his rubbish. but when they had "catted" the anchor, they were obliged to leave it hanging while they got some sail on her, the fall of the cat-tackle being stretched across the deck and belayed to the opposite rail, as there was no fo'lk'sle-head, and consequently no capstan. all hands being aft, the skipper maundered forrard, to find his further progress stopped by this rope. muttering unintelligibly, he cast it off the pin to which it was belayed. the result staggered even himself, for there was a rush and a roar, a perfect blaze of sparks, a cloud of dust, and, with a jerk that almost threw everybody flat, the last link of one hundred and twenty fathoms of cable brought the ship up all standing. all hands had flown forrard at the first bang, but they were powerless to do anything except pray that the cable might part. it was too good for that, bearing the terrible strain to which it was subjected of bringing a ship up, in twenty fathoms of water, that was going nearly four knots an hour.

the mate got the old man aft into his cabin while the fellows clewed up the canvas again, and then issued the order to man the windlass once more. but this the men flatly refused to do, alleging that after their forenoon's work, it was unreasonable to expect such a thing. the mate was powerless to insist, so nothing further was done till next day but give the sails the loosest kind of a furl. at daybreak next morning the heavy task of getting the anchor was begun, the skipper keeping out of sight. there was a great deal of growling and bad language; but the mate managed to get hold of a demijohn of the old man's whisky. this he dispensed with no niggard hand, and so the peace was kept; but it was late in the day when she was again fairly under way for home.

after that, everything went on smoothly enough. although, as usual, the crew were of several nationalities, they all pulled together very well, nor did they take the advantage they might have done of the utter absence of any shadow of discipline on board. the whole working of the ship devolved upon the mate, for the skipper was always more or less drunk, and the second mate was helpless, having had his right foot smashed by a log of mahogany in loading. what work was necessary during the daytime was done cheerfully enough, and a general air of peace and contentment pervaded the ship. for one thing the food was really good and plentiful, and none of the men were of that blackguardly kind that glory in taking every advantage of any weakness aft. of course the watch-keeping at night was bad. a big london boy, who was much disliked for his lazy, dirty habits, was made to keep the look-out always in his watch—a duty which he usually performed with his head between his knees. the rest of the men slept the night through, seldom knowing whose watch on deck it was; so that if sail required trimming all hands generally turned out to it after a good deal of inviting. the captain was supposed to keep the second mate's watch, but he set a shining example to his crew, by sleeping it out wherever he happened to drop when he came on deck.

i was very happy. never since the time my troubles began, that is, at about eight years old, had i been treated so well. being very small, and fairly knowing, besides having a rather sweet treble voice, i was made a sort of plaything—an universal pet. and in the dog-watches, when seated upon the main hatch surrounded by the crew i warbled the songs i knew, while not another sound disturbed the balmy evening but the murmur of the caressing waters alongside and the gentle rustle of a half-drawing sail overhead, i felt as if my halcyon days had dawned at last. that fortnight is one of the pleasantest recollections of my life. the weather was delightfully fine, and by day the ship was like a huge aviary, a multitude of brilliant-hued little birds being continually about her, although we were out of sight of land. they were of many kinds, but all so tame that they freely came and went through cabin and forecastle, hunting for the cockroaches with which she was infested. on the upper yards a small colony of kestrels kept vigilant watch, descending like a flash upon any unwary birdling that dared to venture far into the open. the men made many nocturnal excursions aloft after the "pirates," as they called them, giving them short shrift when they caught them. so the days drowsed on quietly and peacefully, seeming, to my youthful ignorance, as nearly perfection as they could possibly be. not but what i felt an occasional twinge of sorrow at the continual drunkenness of the captain. mixing with the men forrard freely as i did, their rough but half-pitying comments upon him and his behaviour could not fail to impress me, although i often wondered how it was that, being so well aware of the danger they ran by reason of such general neglect, they were not themselves more watchful, instead of taking such advantage as they did of the captain's fault, to sleep all night.

at last, on the fifteenth day from leaving port, on a clear starlit night with a gentle, fair wind blowing, and all hands, including the captain—whose watch it was—asleep, the vessel ran upon a coral reef and became a total wreck. having told the story in another place, i cannot enlarge upon the circumstances attendant upon her loss here; it must suffice to say that, after many perils, all hands escaped safely to land upon the "cay" or sandy islet which crowned the highest point of the reef. a fairly large quantity of food and water was saved; so that we ran no risk of privation, even had the islet failed to furnish us with fish, fowl, and eggs in plenty as it did. one circumstance i must record in passing as being well worthy of notice. as soon as it was evident that the vessel was hopelessly lost, the seamen forrard, though perfectly well behaved, insisted that every drop of intoxicating liquor should be thrown overboard, and, in order that it should be done thoroughly, themselves carried it out. as the giant breakers destroyed the upper works of the ship, much useful wreckage came ashore, and one calm day a visit was paid to her, which was rewarded by the salvage of several sails and a quantity of cordage. with these, comfortable tents were rigged, and i have no doubt that, had it been necessary, we could have put in several months on that barren patch of sand quite happily. huge turtle came ashore to deposit their eggs, and were easily caught. sea-fowl of many kinds, principally boobies and frigate-birds, swarmed in thousands, whose eggs, especially those of the frigate-birds, were delicious eating, although, never being pressed by hunger, we left their rank, fishy flesh severely alone. fish of course abounded, while the crevices of the rocks concealed great numbers of clams and oysters, and at night the lighting of our beacon fire attracted quite a host of crabs from the sea, who fell victims in great numbers to their curiosity. hardships there were none, and i would far rather have lived there for six months than for one week on board the old arabella.

ten days passed gaily away, during which the sail-maker and carpenter had made a fine seaworthy craft of the pinnace in which most of us reached the shore. fitted with new sails and rigging and half-decked, she was fit for a much longer voyage than was necessary to reach the mainland of campèche, the nearest town of which, sisal, was barely a hundred miles distant. but one morning as the look-out man was ascending the rocky promontory, where a flag-staff was erected to hoist the signal of distress we always kept flying by day, he saw a handsome barque lying-to only about two or three miles away. the french ensign was flying at her peak, and a boat had left her side which was being rapidly pulled shorewards. they soon landed, and by expressive signs the officer in charge gave us to understand that he was prepared to take us all on board, but that we must make haste, as the vicinity was much too dangerous to linger in longer than was absolutely necessary. not one word of each other's language did we understand, yet we found no difficulty in getting at one another's meaning sufficiently near for all practical purposes. to my amazement, however, the skipper, the mate, and four others, refused to avail themselves of the opportunity to escape. they said they did not want to go to havana, where the barque would land us, preferring to sail in the pinnace to sisal and take their chance there. when the french officer realized this, he looked as if he thought the small party refusing to come with him were mad. but after an outburst of volubility, quite wasted upon our misunderstanding, he shrugged his shoulders and retreated towards his boat, followed by all who were ready to go with him. his men had made good use of their time by getting a goodly quantity of birds and eggs collected, and now disposed themselves, with a perfect uproar of chattering, in as small a compass as they could, while our fellows took the oars and pulled away for the barque. looking back, i saw the little group of our late shipmates standing watching us from the beach: a sight so pathetic that i could not help bursting into tears, quite forgetting that it was entirely in accordance with their own desires that they were thus abandoned.

we soon reached the ship, swarmed on board, and swung the boat up to the davits in a twinkling, while the officer who had brought us—the chief mate—held an animated colloquy with the captain on the poop. from the expressive gestures used, we had no doubt but that they were discussing the incomprehensible resolve of our captain and his followers. they terminated their conversation by mutual shoulder-shruggings, as who should say, "but what would you, my friend? they are english, whose ways are past finding out." nothing could be more cordial than our reception by all hands. the big long-boat was cleared out for our sleeping-place, as the barque's fo'lk'sle accommodation was too limited to admit any more than at present occupied it; and a bountiful meal of fazhole blanc, a delicious purée of haricot beans, good biscuit, and vin ordinaire was served out to us.