the company had hardly expected that captain ringgold would go to the capital, for it was off the course to japan, which was the next country to be visited; but their curiosity had been greatly excited, and he was disposed to gratify it.
"pekin is not on navigable water, and we cannot go there in the ship," said he. "we go to tien-tsin, which is the seaport of pekin, about eighty miles distant from it. it is a treaty port, and is said to have a population of six hundred thousand; the number can doubtless be considerably discounted. the next thing is to get to pekin; though we can go most of the way by boat to tung-chow, thirteen miles from the capital. some go all the way on horseback or by cart. we will decide that question when we get to tien-tsin."
"how long will it take us to go there?" asked uncle moses.
"about two days; we are off woo-sung now. we have the pilot on board, and we shall go to sea at once," replied the commander.
nothing of especial interest occurred on the voyage; and before noon on the second day out the two[343] ships were off the mouth of the pei-ho river, and a chinese pilot was taken. as they went up the river they saw the taku forts, where the celestial soldiers won their only victory over the english, but were badly beaten the following year. on the rising tide the ships got up the river, and anchored off the town.
the place was like any other chinese city, and was quite as dirty as the dirtiest of them. two of the guides from shang-hai, who were couriers for travellers, had been brought, one in each ship; and both of them were intelligent men. the blanchita had been put into the water as soon as the anchors were buried in the mud; and the party went on shore in her, to the great disgust of the boat-people.
the american consul came on board with the chinese officials; and the commander took him into the cabin for a conference in regard to getting to pekin, while the tourists were on shore with the guides. mr. smithers had seen the steam-launch, and the question was whether the party could go up pekin river in her. the consul could see no difficulty in the way, any more than there would be in the ships' barges. he thought he could put them in the way of making the trip securely, and they went on shore together in the barge.
mr. smithers knew a couple of high officials who were going to the capital the next day, and the commander was introduced to them. they were very polite, and both of them spoke english. one had[344] been educated at yale college in new haven. they were invited to go with the party to pekin in the blanchita, and accepted. the arrangements were completed for the trip. they went on board of the guardian-mother, and were treated with the most distinguished consideration, shown over the ship, and invited to lunch.
when the launch came off with the party at noon, all the ladies and gentlemen were presented to them by the commander. the pacha, the rajah, and the princess were clothed in their elegant robes; and they evidently made a profound impression. the plan for the journey to the capital was announced to the passengers, and they could not help being delighted with it. mr. sage had been directed to spread himself on the lunch, and he did so. monsieur odervie even prepared a few chinese dishes, the art of doing which he had learned from a native cook in hong-kong.
in the afternoon the party went on shore again, under the escort of mr. psi-ning and mr. ying-chau, visiting the temple in which the treaties had been signed, and several others, and then walked through the street of "everlasting prosperity," as the chinese gentlemen explained it. the prosperity seemed to consist mainly in the sale of eel-pies with baked potatoes, the former kept hot at a small charcoal fire. live fish in shallow bowls with a little water in them were common, and cook-shops for more elaborate chinese dishes were abundant.[345]
both the native gentlemen were mandarins of different orders, and they were received with the most profound deference by the common people. the tourists saw everything in the town that was worth seeing; and early in the afternoon they returned to the guardian-mother, where the consul and the native gentlemen were to dine. the latter were invited to sleep on board in order to be in readiness for an early start the next day, and they had ordered their baggage to be sent to the ship. mr. psi-ning said he had telegraphed to an official at tung-chow to have conveyances ready for the party at that place, which was as far as the boat could go, thirteen miles from pekin.
mr. smithers was exceedingly kind, and did far more than could be expected of a consul. the commander expressed his obligations to him in the most earnest terms for all he had done, and especially for introducing the distinguished chinese gentlemen. the dinner was the most elaborate the steward and the cook could provide, and it was one of those hilarious affairs which have several times been described during the voyage. in the evening there were mrs. belgrave's games, music, and dancing with the assistance of the italian band, and finally the singing of the gospel hymns.
the blanchita was prepared for her voyage as soon as she came off from the shore, coaled for the round trip, supplied with cooked provisions, though the galley was available, and with everything that[346] could possibly be needed. she was put in about the same trim as when she went up the rivers of borneo. felipe was to be the engineer, pitts the cook, and four sailors were detailed for deck-hands. the excursion had been arranged for five days; and the bags, valises, and other impedimenta of the voyagers, were on deck at an early hour. breakfast was ready at half-past six; and at half-past seven the blanchita got under way with a native pilot for the river, who could speak pidgin english.
the party were in a frolicsome mood; and they went off singing a song, to the great astonishment of the native boat-people. mr. psi-ning joined with them; for he had learned the tunes in the united states, where he had travelled extensively. tien-tsin is the terminus of the grand canal in the north, and they passed through a small portion of it into the river. the trip was through a low country. the road to the capital was in sight, and they saw various vehicles moving upon it. the first that attracted their attention was one of the barrows, with a native between the handles, supporting them with a band over his shoulders. on one side of the large wheel was a passenger; and behind him was a lofty sail, like those depending from the yards of a ship, but about three times as high in proportion to its width. it had five ribs of wood in it below the upper yard to keep it spread out. the boys thought the craft would be inclined to heel over with all the cargo on the starboard side.[347]
they saw a rickshaw rigged with a sail in this manner. a man on a farm was working with an ordinary wheelbarrow sailing in this way. there were no end of men riding ponies, or in the two-wheeled passenger-carts having a cover over them which extended out over the horse. farther up they observed a couple of coolies irrigating the land with a machine which had four paddles for moving the water, with four more each side of the stream, under a frame to which two men were holding on, and working treadmill fashion, with their feet on each of the four arms. they noticed mixed teams of horses and bullocks, such as one sees in naples. the most curious was a mule-litter, which was simply a sedan between two animals.
felipe drove the launch at a nine-knot speed, and at half-past three in the afternoon the boat arrived at tung-chow. contrary to their expectation, the passengers had greatly enjoyed the trip; but it was out of their own hilarity rather than their surroundings. pitts had arranged the lunch in a very tasty manner on the tables in what the boys had called the fore and after cabins. they found all the variety of vehicles they had seen on the road, and in three hours they came to the great gate of pekin. they were conveyed to the small german hotel, which they more than filled; and other lodgings were provided for some of the gentlemen, though the meals were to be taken at the public-house.
the chinese gentlemen had to leave them to[348] attend to their own affairs, but after dinner the professor told them something about pekin: "the city is in about the same latitude as new york, and the climate is about the same. it is situated on a sandy plain, and the suburbs are comparatively few. the town consists of two cities, the manchu and the chinese, separated by a wall; and the whole is surrounded by high walls, with towers and pagodas on them, as you have already seen. the manchu wall is fifty feet high, sixty feet wide at the bottom, and forty at the top. without the cross-walls, there are twenty-one miles of outer wall, enclosing twenty-six square miles of ground.
"there are sixteen gates, each with a tower a hundred feet high on it. your first impression must have been that pekin is the greatest city in the world. you came in by a street two hundred feet wide, with shops on each side; but when you have seen more of it, you will find dilapidation and decay, and about the same filth you have observed in other chinese cities. but it is one of the most ancient cities in the world, for this or another city stood here twelve hundred years before christ. kublâi, a grandson of genghis khan, the great conqueror of the moguls, made pekin the capital of all china. when the manchus came into power the city was all ready for them, and for a time they kept it in repair; but for more than a hundred years it has been going to ruin.
"the manchu, or inner city, is divided into three[349] parts, the largest of which is the real city. in the middle of it are two walled enclosures, one within the other. the outer one seems to be the guardroom of the inner, to which entrance is forbidden to all foreigners, and even to manchus and chinese not connected with the court. this last is called the purple forbidden city, two and a quarter miles around it, and is the actual imperial residence. it includes the palaces of the emperor and empress and other members of the family. it contains other palaces and halls of reception.
"the 'hall of grand harmony' is built on a terrace twenty feet high, and is of marble, one hundred and ten feet high. its chief apartment is two hundred feet long by ninety wide, and contains a throne for the emperor, who holds his receptions here on new year's day, his birthday, and on other great occasions. the 'palace of heavenly purity' is where the monarch meets his cabinet at dawn for business; and you see that he must be an early riser. within these enclosures are temples, parks, an artificial lake a mile long, a great temple in which the imperial family worship their ancestors, and many other grand palaces, temples, and statues, which i have not time to mention.
"the outer, or chinese, city, is thinly populated, and a considerable portion of it is under cultivation. the principal streets are over a hundred feet wide; but those at the sides of them, like canton and other cities, are nothing but lanes. none of the streets[350] are paved, and mud and dust reign supreme. as with other eastern cities, the population of pekin is exaggerated, being estimated by some as high as two millions; but dr. legge thought it was less than one million.
"the charge of infanticide seems not to be applicable to pekin or the surrounding country, and is said to be almost unknown there. a dead-cart passes through the streets at early morning to pick up the bodies of children dying from ordinary causes whose parents are too poor to bury them. there are foundling hospitals, to which the mothers prefer to take their female children rather than sacrifice them. in fact, infanticide is said to be known only in four or five provinces. i have nothing more to say, and i leave you to see the rest for yourselves," said the professor, as he resumed his seat.
the next morning mr. psi-ning presented himself at the hotel, before which were gathered vehicles enough to accommodate the entire party. the rickshaw had recently been introduced from japan, and several of them were included in the number; but the carts and the barrows were generally preferred. the company selected what they pleased. mr. psi-ning led the way through the principal street, and through some of the lanes; but the scenes in them were so much like what they had seen in three other cities that the novelty of them had worn off. the residences of the ambassadors of foreign countries were pointed out to them, including that of the hon.[351] c. denby, before which they halted; and the chinese gentleman conducted them all into it, where they were presented in due form to his excellency, who received them very pleasantly.
they then went to the temple of heaven, which was quite a curious building, somewhat in pagoda style. it began on the ground at a round structure, with an overhanging roof. the second story was smaller, with the same kind of a roof; and the third was the same, but with a roof coming to a point, like a cone. it was almost a hundred feet high. the tiles were of blue porcelain, in imitation of a clear sky.
in the afternoon the tourists were conveyed to the office of the board of punishments, and mr. psi-ning explained the criminal processes and sentences. the latter are very severe, including torture, which makes one think that he is reading foxe's "book of martyrs." the party declined to witness any of the punishments. some culprits are treated to twenty or more blows with a bamboo. men suspected are tortured to make them confess. they are put in all sorts of painful positions.
capital punishment is inflicted by placing the victim on his knees, with his arms bound behind him, and his head is severed from his body by the stroke of a heavy knife or sword.
the next day the mandarin conducted the tourists to the gate of the forbidden city; for he had obtained a permit for the admission of the whole of[352] them in a body. the professor had described the principal structures within the enclosure; and it would be only a repetition to report what the mandarin said of them, though he added considerable to what had come from the books. the third gateway was especially noted as one of the finest pieces of chinese architecture the party had seen.
the "abode of heavenly calmness" was the noblest, richest, and most luxuriously furnished in the great palace; for it is the private apartment of the emperor. the great union saloon, where his imperial majesty receives the high-class mandarins, was elegant enough for any royal apartment.
the tourists walked about among the chinese glories till they were tired out. the two cupids were completely "blown;" and when they found a place, they seated themselves, and let the rest of the company finish the survey of the forbidden city. the palace of one prince of the imperial house was so large that three thousand men could be quartered in the out-buildings, and doubtless as many more could be accommodated in the main structure. the cupids were picked up on the return; but there was more to be seen, and they went to the beautiful temple of fo, containing a gilded bronze statue of the god, sixty feet high, with one hundred arms, and scott remarked that he was like a big man-of-war, well armed.
they came again to the temple of heaven; but the mandarin had not obtained a permit, which was[353] exceedingly difficult to procure in recent years. mr. psi-ning told them that the interior, in its chief hall, represented the heavens. it was a circular apartment surrounded by twenty-two pillars, and everything was painted sky-blue. a portion of this temple is the "penitential retreat" of the emperor, where he keeps three days of fasting, meditating over his own sins and those of the government, previous to offering up his sacrifice. connected with the temple was a band of five hundred musicians, who reside there; but the commander was thankful that the party were not compelled to listen to their performance.
the tourists were very glad to get back to the hotel in the street of the legations, and they did not go out again that day. the question of visiting the great wall then came up for discussion. brother avoirdupois and brother adipose tissue declared in the beginning that they would not go; and the mandarin laughed heartily when these names were applied to them, and still more when they were called the cupids.
"it is forty-five miles to the loop-wall which travellers generally visit from pekin," said mr. psi-ning. "you would have to go in mule-litters, or on horseback, or by the carts you have used; and it would take you a day to get there, and as long to return. then it would be only the loop-wall, and not the great wall, which cannot be reached without going over a hundred miles. i can say for myself that i[354] have never been to either, just as i heard a man in boston say that he had lived there over sixty years, and had never been to bunker hill monument."
"the wall is an old story to you, i suppose," said the princess.
"you have seen the walls of pekin, and they are a good specimen of the great wall; at any rate, they satisfied me," replied the mandarin.
but the "big four" and professor giroud decided to visit the loop-wall, and the chinese gentleman advised them to start immediately after lunch. one of the guides, who had been there several times before, was to accompany them, and was sure they could reach their destination by sunset; and they started as soon as they had lunched. mr. psi procured for them six fine horses and a mule-litter. the road was paved with solid granite slabs, ten feet long, all the way.
the attentive mandarin kept the rest of the tourists very busy the next two days; and they visited everything that was worth seeing in the capital, and they dined with him one day in his palace. the party from the wall returned before night the next day, and said they had had a good time, though the wall did not amount to much more than that seen at pekin.
"i have a government mission in tokyo next week, and i have to go to japan," said mr. psi-ning, while they were dining together at the german hotel. "i shall probably meet you there."[355]
"if you are going to japan, permit me to offer you a stateroom on board of the guardian-mother," interposed the commander eagerly. "you are practically an american after a five years' residence in the united states, and are familiar with our way of living; though i will add that monsieur odervie, our french cook, has learned to make a few chinese dishes, and we will endeavor to make you comfortable."
"your living will suit me perfectly, for i am used to it; and having dined with you on board, i know that your bill of fare is better than any hotel in the states. but when do you sail?"
"whenever you are ready, my dear sir."
"i have to spend a day in tien-tsin, and then i was to take a steamer to shang-hai, and thence a p. & o. to yokohama."
"but that is out of the way; and we go direct to yokohama, or we will go there first if you honor us with your company," said the captain, glancing at general noury.
"by all means!" exclaimed the pacha. "mrs. noury and myself will be delighted to have you with us, mr. psi-ning."
"then i shall be too happy to accept your cordial invitation," replied the mandarin. that matter was settled; and the new passenger went to his palace to prepare for his journey, though he did not forget to send one of his people to tung-chow to arrange for the reception of the party the next day.[356]
the horses the young men rode, the mule-litters, wheelbarrows, and jinrikishas were at the door of the hotel early in the morning; and the mandarin, with his valet, were on time. the company reached tung-chow before noon; and a chinese lunch was ready for them, ordered by the new passenger. the blanchita was all ready for them to step on board when they had partaken of roast goose, duck, and chicken at the inn. the passage down the river was a frolic all the way, and the guest told them more about china than they had learned before in regard to matters not generally known.
felipe hurried the steamer, and she was alongside the guardian-mother before five in the afternoon. mr. psi-ning had several pieces of baggage, including despatch-bags, which were placed in the finest stateroom on board. the commander had telegraphed for dinner at the usual hour. mr. smithers came on board before it was ready, and was invited to join the company. from him they learned that mr. psi-ning was in the diplomatic service of the government, and that he would be of great assistance to them in japan.
the ships had to wait only one day for him; and on wednesday, may 10, at six in the morning, they sailed for tokyo, though the commander's original intention had been to go first to nagasaki. the blanche's party went on board of the guardian-mother before she sailed, with the italian band. they played to the great delight of the boatmen[357] around the ship, as well as of those on board. the consul went to the mouth of the river, and took a tug home. it was a frolic all day and till midnight, when the blanche's passengers returned to her.
it was a smooth sea all the four days of the voyage, even on the pacific shores; and the guardian-mother's people spent the next day on board of the consort. on the third day there was a lecture on japan in conference hall, given by mr. psi-ning, who was as familiar with that country as with china. but his discourse must be reported in another volume.
those who are disposed to follow the tourists through japan, and then on their long voyage of two thousand miles to australia, new zealand, and the sandwich islands, will be enabled to do so in "pacific shores; or, adventures in eastern seas."
