the great anaconda’s dinner—barney gets a fright—turtles’ eggs, omelets and alligators’ tails—senhor antonio’s plantation—preparations for a great hunt.
the object which called forth the cry from our irish friend, as related in the last chapter, was neither more nor less than a serpent of dimensions more enormous than barney had ever before conceived of. it was upwards of sixteen feet long, and nearly as thick as a man’s body; but about the neck it was three times that size. this serpent was not, indeed, of the largest size. in south america they grow to nearly forty feet in length. but it was fabulously gigantic in the eyes of our adventurers, who had never seen a serpent of any kind before.
“oh!” cried martin, eagerly, “that must be an anaconda. is it not?” he inquired, turning to the old trader.
“yees; it dead,” was the short reply.
“so it is!” cried martin, who, on a nearer approach, observed that the brute’s body was cut in two just below the swelling at the neck.
“now, did ye iver,” cried barney with increased surprise, “see a sarpint with a cow’s horns growin’ out at its mouth? put ashore, old boy; we must have a ’vestigation o’ this remarkable cratur.”
the canoe was soon aground, and in another minute the three travellers busily engaged in turning over the carcass of the huge reptile, which they found, to the amazement of martin and barney, had actually swallowed an ox whole, with the exception of the horns, which protruded from its mouth!
after much questioning, in bad portuguese, broken english, and remarkable signs, martin succeeded in drawing from the old trader the information that anacondas of a large size are often in the habit of thus bolting horses and oxen at a mouthful.
there is not the slightest exaggeration in this fact. readers who are inclined to disbelieve it may refer to the works of wallace and gardner on brazil,—authorities which cannot be doubted.
the reptile commences by patiently watching, until an unfortunate animal strays near to where it is lying, when it darts upon it, encircles it in its massive coils, and crushes it to death in an instant. then it squeezes the body and broken bones into a shapeless mass; after which it licks the carcass all over, and covers it with a thick coating of saliva. having thus prepared its mouthful, the anaconda begins at the tail and gradually engulfs its victim, while its elastic jaws, and throat, and stomach are distended sufficiently to let it in; after which it lies in a torpid state for many weeks, till the morsel is digested, when it is ready for another meal. a horse goes down entire, but a cow sticks at the horns, which the anaconda cannot swallow. they are allowed to protrude from its mouth until they decay and drop off.
they were at a loss at first to account for the creature being killed; but the old trader suggested that it had been found in a torpid state, and slain by the indian whom they had seen a short time ago enjoying his siesta among the trees.
having cut it open, in order to convince themselves beyond a doubt that it had swallowed an entire ox, martin and the old trader re-embarked in the canoe, and barney was on the point of joining them when the bushes close beside him were slightly stirred. looking quickly round, he beheld the head and the glittering eyes of another anaconda, apparently as large as the dead one, ready to dart upon him,—at least so he fancied; but he did not wait to give it a chance. he fled instantly, and sprang towards the boat which he nearly upset as he leaped into it, and pushed out into the stream. on reaching the middle of the river they looked back, but the anaconda was gone.
soon after this they came to a long sandbank, where the old trader said they should find as many turtles’ eggs as they wished for, although to barney and martin there seemed to be nothing on the bank at all. the freshwater turtle of the amazon, of which there are various species, is one of the most useful of reptiles. its flesh supplies abundance of good food; and the eggs, besides being eaten, afford an excellent oil. the largest species grow to the length of three feet, and have a flattish oval shell of a dark colour, and quite smooth. turtles lay their eggs about the beginning of september, when the sand-banks begin to be uncovered. they scrape deep holes for them, and cover them carefully over, beating down the sand quite flat, and walking across the place several times, for the purpose of concealment. the eggs are then left to be hatched by the heat of the sun. but alas for the poor turtles, men are too clever for them. the eggs are collected by the natives in thousands, and, when oil is to be made of them, they are thrown into a canoe, smashed and mixed up together, and left to stand, when the oil rises to the top, and is skimmed off and boiled. it keeps well, and is used both for lamps and cooking. very few of the millions of eggs that are annually laid arrive at maturity.
when the young turtles issue forth and run to the water, there are many enemies watching for them. great alligators open their jaws and swallow them by hundreds; jaguars come out of the forests and feed upon them; eagles and buzzards and wood-ibises are there, too, to claim their share of the feast; and, if they are fortunate enough to escape all these, there are many large and ravenous fishes ready to seize them in the stream. it seems a marvel that any escape at all.
in a few minutes the old trader scraped up about a hundred eggs, to the immense satisfaction of martin and barney. then he took a bow and arrow from the bottom of the montaria, and shot a large turtle in the water, while his companions kindled a fire, intending to dine.
only the nose of the turtle was visible above water; but the old man was so expert in the use of the bow, that he succeeded in transfixing the soft part of the animal’s neck with an arrow, although that part was under water. it was a large turtle, and very fat and heavy, so that it was with difficulty the trader lifted it upon his old shoulders and bore it in triumph to the spot where his companions were busily engaged with their cooking operations. turtles are frequently shot with the arrow by the natives; they are also taken in great numbers with the hook and the net.
dinner was soon ready. barney concocted an immense and savoury omelet, and the old trader cooked an excellent turtle-steak, while martin prepared a junk of jaguar meat, which he roasted, being curious to taste it, as he had been told that the indians like it very much. it was pretty good, but not equal to the turtle-eggs. the shell of the egg is leathery, and the yolk only is eaten. the indians sometimes eat them raw, mixed with farina. cakes of farina, and excellent coffee, concluded their repast; and barney declared he had never had such a satisfactory “blow out” in his life; a sentiment with which martin entirely agreed, and the old trader—if one might judge from the expression of his black countenance—sympathised.
for many weeks our adventurers continued to ascend the amazon, sometimes sailing before the wind; at other times, when it fell calm, pushing the montaria up the current by means of long poles, or advancing more easily with the paddles. occasionally they halted for a day at the residence of a wealthy cacao planter, in order to sell him some merchandise; for which purpose the canoe was unloaded, and the bales were opened out for his inspection. most of these planters were brazilians, a few were yankee adventurers, and one or two were scotch and english; but nearly all had married brazilian ladies, who, with their daughters, proved good customers to the old trader. some of these ladies were extremely “purty craturs,” as barney expressed it; but most of them were totally uneducated and very ignorant,—not knowing half so much as a child of seven or eight years old in more favoured lands. they were very fond of fine dresses and ornaments, of which considerable supplies were sent to them from europe and the united states, in exchange for the valuable produce of their country. but although their dresses were fine and themselves elegant, their houses were generally very poor affairs—made of wood and thatched with broad leaves; and it was no uncommon thing to see a lady, who seemed from her gay dress to be fitted for a drawing-room, seated on an earthen floor. but there were all sorts of extremes in this strange land; for at the next place they came to, perhaps, they found a population of negroes and indians, and most of the grown-up people were half naked, while all the children were entirely so.
at one plantation, where they resolved to spend a few days, the owner had a pond which was much frequented by alligators. these he was in the habit of hunting periodically, for the sake of their fat, which he converted into oil. at the time of their arrival, he was on the eve of starting on a hunting expedition to the lake, which was about eight miles distant; so barney and martin determined to go and “see the fun,” as the latter said.
“martin, lad,” remarked barney, as they followed the negro slave who had been sent by senhor antonio, the planter, to conduct them to the lake, while he remained behind for an hour or two to examine the bales of the old trader; “this is the quarest country, i believe, that iver was made; what with bastes, and varmints, and riptiles, and traes, and bushes, and rivers, it bates all creation.”
“certainly it does, barney; and it is a pity there are so few people in it who know how to make use of the things that are scattered all around them. i’m inclined to think the hermit was right when he said that they wanted the bible. they are too far sunk in laziness and idleness to be raised up by anything else. just look,” continued martin, glancing round, “what a wonderful place this is! it seems as if all the birds and curious trees in brazil had congregated here to meet us.”
“so’t does,” said barney, stopping to gaze on the scene through which they were passing, with an expression of perplexity on his face, as if he found the sight rather too much even for his comprehension. besides the parrots and scarlet and yellow macaws, and other strange-looking birds which we have elsewhere mentioned, there were long-tailed light-coloured cuckoos flying about from tree to tree, not calling like the cuckoo of europe at all, but giving forth a sound like the creaking of a rusty hinge; there were hawks and buzzards of many different kinds, and red-breasted orioles in the bushes, and black vultures flying overhead, and muscovy ducks sweeping past with whizzing wings, and flocks of the great wood-ibis sailing in the air on noiseless pinions, and hundreds of other birds that it would require an ornithologist to name; and myriads of insects,—especially ants and spiders, great and small,—that no entomologist could chronicle in a life-time: all these were heard and seen at once; while of the animals that were heard, but not so often seen, there were black and spotted jaguars, and pacas, and cotias, and armadillos, and deer, and many others, that would take pages to enumerate and whole books to describe.
but the noise was the great point. that was the thing that took martin and barney quite aback, although it was by no means new to them; but they could not get used to it. and no wonder! ten thousand paroquets shrieking passionately, like a hundred knife-grinders at work, is no joke; especially when their melodies are mingled with the discordant cries of herons, and bitterns, and cranes, and the ceaseless buzz and hum of insects, like the bagpipe’s drone, and the dismal croaking of boat-bills and frogs,—one kind of which latter, by the way, doesn’t croak at all, but whistles, ay, better than many a bird! the universal hubbub is tremendous! i tell you, reader, that you don’t understand it and you can’t understand it; and if, after i had used the utmost excess of exaggerated language to convey a correct impression of the reality, you were to imagine that you really did understand it, you would be very lamentably mistaken—that’s all!
nevertheless, you must not run away with the idea that the whole empire of brazil is like this. there are dark thick solitudes in these vast forests, which are solemn and silent enough at times; and there are wide grassy campos, and great sandy plains, where such sounds are absent. yet there are also thousands of such spots as i have just described, where all nature, in earth, air, and water, is instinct with noisy animal life.
after two hours’ walk, martin and his companion reached the lake, and here active preparations were making for the alligator hunt.
“is that the only place ye have to spind the night in, sambo?” said barney to their conductor, as he pointed to a wooden shed near which some fifteen or twenty negro slaves were overhauling the fishing tackle.
“yis, massa,” answered the black, showing his white teeth; “dat is de hottle of dis great city.” sambo could speak a little english, having wrought for several years on the coffee plantation of a yankee settler. he was a bit of a wag, too, much to the indignation of his grave master, the senhor antonio, who abhorred jesting.
“ye’re too cliver, avic,” said barney, with a patronising smile; “take care ye don’t use up yer intellect too fast. it hurts the constitution in the long-run.”
“i say, barney,” cried martin, who had gone ahead of his companions, “come here, man, and just look at this pond. it’s literally crammed full of alligators.”
“musha, but there’s more alligators than wather, i belave!” exclaimed barney.
the pond was indeed swarming with these ferocious reptiles, which were constantly thrusting their ugly snouts above the surface and then disappearing with a flourish of their powerful tails. during the rainy season this lake was much larger, and afforded ample room for its inhabitants; but at the height of the dry season, which it was at this time, there was little water, and it was much overstocked. when alligators are thus put upon short allowance of water, they frequently bury themselves in the wet mud, and lie dormant for a long time, while the water continues to retire and leaves them buried. but when the first shower of the rainy season falls, they burst open their tomb, and drag their dry bodies to the lake or river, on whose margin they went to sleep.
an hour or two later the senhor antonio arrived; but as it was getting dark, nothing could be done until the following morning; so they slung their hammocks under the wooden shed on the margin of the lake, and, in order to save themselves as much as possible from the bites of the tormenting mosquitoes, went to sleep with their heads tied up in their handkerchiefs, and their hands thrust into their breeches pockets! the occasional splash and snort of contending alligators, about twenty yards off, varied the monotony of the hours of darkness, while the frogs and cranes and jaguars sang their lullaby.
