dawn had given place to day, and day was well advanced toward noon, before the stout little steamer gained her port. it was hours after the usual time for arrival; the train for paris must long since have started, and katy felt dejected and forlorn as, making her way out of the terrible ladies'-cabin, she crept on deck for her first glimpse of france.
the sun was struggling through the fog with a watery smile, and his faint beams shone on a confusion of stone piers, higher than the vessel's deck, intersected with canal-like waterways, through whose intricate windings the steamer was slowly threading her course to the landing-place. looking up, katy could see crowds of people assembled to watch the boat come in,—workmen, peasants, women, children, soldiers, custom-house officers, moving to and fro,—and all this crowd were talking all at once and all were talking french!
i don't know why this should have startled her as it did. she knew, of course, that people of different countries were liable to be found speaking their own languages; but somehow the spectacle of the chattering multitude, all seeming so perfectly at ease with their preterits and subjunctives and never once having to refer to ollendorf or a dictionary, filled her with a sense of dismayed surprise.
"good gracious!" she said to herself, "even the babies understand it!" she racked her brains to recall what she had once known of french, but very little seemed to have survived the horrors of the night!
"oh dear! what is the word for trunk-key?" she asked herself. "they will all begin to ask questions, and i shall not have a word to say; and mrs. ashe will be even worse off, i know." she saw the red-trousered custom-house officers pounce upon the passengers as they landed one by one, and she felt her heart sink within her.
but after all, when the time came it did not prove so very bad. katy's pleasant looks and courteous manner stood her in good stead. she did not trust herself to say much; but the officials seemed to understand without saying. they bowed and gestured, whisked the keys in and out, and in a surprisingly short time all was pronounced right, the baggage had "passed," and it and its owners were free to proceed to the railway-station, which fortunately was close at hand.
inquiry revealed the fact that no train for paris left till four in the afternoon.
"i am rather glad," declared poor mrs. ashe, "for i feel too used up to move. i will lie here on this sofa; and, katy dear, please see if there is an eating-place, and get some breakfast for yourself and amy, and send me a cup of tea."
"i don't like to leave you alone," katy was beginning; but at that moment a nice old woman who seemed to be in charge of the waiting-room appeared, and with a flood of french which none of them could follow, but which was evidently sympathetic in its nature, flew at mrs. ashe and began to make her comfortable. from a cupboard in the wall she produced a pillow, from another cupboard a blanket; in a trice she had one under mrs. ashe's head and the other wrapped round her feet.
"pauvre madame," she said, "si pale! si souffrante! il faut avoir quelque chose à boire et à manger tout de suite." she trotted across the room and into the restaurant which opened out of it, while mrs. ashe smiled at katy and said, "you see you can leave me quite safely; i am to be taken care of." and katy and amy passed through the same door into the buffet, and sat down at a little table.
it was a particularly pleasant-looking place to breakfast in. there were many windows with bright polished panes and very clean short muslin curtains, and on the window-sills stood rows of thrifty potted plants in full bloom,—marigolds, balsams, nasturtiums, and many colored geraniums. two birds in cages were singing loudly; the floor was waxed to a glass-like polish; nothing could have been whiter than the marble of the tables except the napkins laid over them. and such a good breakfast as was presently brought to them,—delicious coffee in bowl-like cups, crisp rolls and rusks, an omelette with a delicate flavor of fine herbs, stewed chicken, little pats of freshly churned butter without salt, shaped like shells and tasting like solidified cream, and a pot of some sort of nice preserve. amy made great delighted eyes at katy, and remarking, "i think france is heaps nicer than that old england," began to eat with a will; and katy herself felt that if this railroad meal was a specimen of what they had to expect in the future, they had indeed come to a land of plenty.
fortified with the satisfactory breakfast, she felt equal to a walk; and after they had made sure that mrs. ashe had all she needed, she and amy (and mabel) set off by themselves to see the sights of dieppe. i don't know that travellers generally have considered dieppe an interesting place, but katy found it so. there was a really old church and some quaint buildings of the style of two centuries back, and even the more modern streets had a novel look to her unaccustomed eyes. at first they only ventured a timid turn or two, marking each corner, and going back now and then to reassure themselves by a look at the station; but after a while, growing bolder, katy ventured to ask a question or two in french, and was surprised and charmed to find herself understood. after that she grew adventurous, and, no longer fearful of being lost, led amy straight down a long street lined with shops, almost all of which were for the sale of articles in ivory.
ivory wares are one of the chief industries of dieppe. there were cases full, windows full, counters full, of the most exquisite combs and brushes, some with elaborate monograms in silver and colors, others plain; there were boxes and caskets of every size and shape, ornaments, fans, parasol handles, looking-glasses, frames for pictures large and small, napkin-rings.
katy was particularly smitten with a paper-knife in the form of an angel with long slender wings raised over its head and meeting to form a point. its price was twenty francs, and she was strongly tempted to buy it for clover or rose red. but she said to herself sensibly, "this is the first shop i have been into and the first thing i have really wanted to buy, and very likely as we go on i shall see things i like better and want more, so it would be foolish to do it. no, i won't." and she resolutely turned her back on the ivory angel, and walked away.
the next turn brought them to a gay-looking little market-place, where old women in white caps were sitting on the ground beside baskets and panniers full of apples, pears, and various queer and curly vegetables, none of which katy recognized as familiar; fish of all shapes and colors were flapping in shallow tubs of sea-water; there were piles of stockings, muffetees, and comforters in vivid blue and red worsted, and coarse pottery glazed in bright patterns. the faces of the women were brown and wrinkled; there were no pretty ones among them, but their black eyes were full of life and quickness, and their fingers one and all clicked with knitting-needles, as their tongues flew equally fast in the chatter and the chaffer, which went on without stop or stay, though customers did not seem to be many and sales were few.
returning to the station they found that mrs. ashe had been asleep during their absence, and seemed so much better that it was with greatly amended spirits that they took their places in the late afternoon train which was to set them down at rouen. katy said they were like the wise men of the east, "following a star," in their choice of a hotel; for, having no better advice, they had decided upon one of those thus distinguished in baedeker's guide-book.
the star did not betray their confidence; for the h?tel de la cloche, to which it led them, proved to be quaint and old, and very pleasant of aspect. the lofty chambers, with their dimly frescoed ceilings, and beds curtained with faded patch, might to all appearances have been furnished about the time when "columbus crossed the ocean blue;" but everything was clean, and had an air of old-time respectability. the dining-room, which was evidently of more modern build, opened into a square courtyard where oleanders and lemon trees in boxes stood round the basin of a little fountain, whose tinkle and plash blended agreeably with the rattle of the knives and forks. in one corner of the room was a raised and railed platform, where behind a desk sat the mistress of the house, busy with her account-books, but keeping an eye the while on all that went forward.
mrs. ashe walked past this personage without taking any notice of her, as americans are wont to do under such circumstances; but presently the observant katy noticed that every one else, as they went in or out of the room, addressed a bow or a civil remark to this lady. she quite blushed at the recollection afterward, as she made ready for bed.
"how rude we must have seemed!" she thought. "i am afraid the people here think that americans have awful manners, everybody is so polite. they said 'bon soir' and 'merci' and 'voulez-vous avoir la bonté,' to the waiters even! well, there is one thing,—i am going to reform. to-morrow i will be as polite as anybody. they will think that i am miraculously improved by one night on french soil; but, never mind! i am going to do it."
she kept her resolution, and astonished mrs. ashe next morning, by bowing to the dame on the platform in the most winning manner, and saying, "bon jour, madame," as they went by.
"but, katy, who is that person? why do you speak to her?"
"don't you see that they all do? she is the landlady, i think; at all events, everybody bows to her. and just notice how prettily these ladies at the next table speak to the waiter. they do not order him to do things as we do at home. i noticed it last night, and i liked it so much that i made a resolution to get up and be as polite as the french themselves this morning."
so all the time that they went about the sumptuous old city, rich in carvings and sculptures and traditions, while they were looking at the cathedral and the wonderful church of st. ouen, and the palace of justice, and the "place of the maid," where poor jeanne d'arc was burned and her ashes scattered to the winds, katy remembered her manners, and smiled and bowed, and used courteous prefixes in a soft pleasant voice; and as mrs. ashe and amy fell in with her example more or less, i think the guides and coachmen and the old women who showed them over the buildings felt that the air of france was very civilizing indeed, and that these strangers from savage countries over the sea were in a fair way to be as well bred as if they had been born in a more favored part of the world!
paris looked very modern after the peculiar quaint richness and air of the middle ages which distinguish rouen. rooms had been engaged for mrs. ashe's party in a pension near the arc d'étoile, and there they drove immediately on arriving. the rooms were not in the pension itself, but in a house close by,—a sitting-room with six mirrors, three clocks, and a pinched little grate about a foot wide, a dining-room just large enough for a table and four chairs, and two bedrooms. a maid called amandine had been detailed to take charge of these rooms and serve their meals.
dampness, as katy afterward wrote to clover, was the first impression they received of "gay paris." the tiny fire in the tiny grate had only just been lighted, and the walls and the sheets and even the blankets felt chilly and moist to the touch. they spent their first evening in hanging the bedclothes round the grate and piling on fuel; they even set the mattresses up on edge to warm and dry! it was not very enlivening, it must be confessed. amy had taken a cold, mrs. ashe looked worried, and katy thought of burnet and the safety and comfort of home with a throb of longing.
the days that ensued were not brilliant enough to remove this impression. the november fogs seemed to have followed them across the channel, and paris remained enveloped in a wet blanket which dimmed and hid its usually brilliant features. going about in cabs with the windows drawn up, and now and then making a rush through the drip into shops, was not exactly delightful, but it seemed pretty much all that they could do. it was worse for amy, whose cold kept her indoors and denied her even the relaxation of the cab. mrs. ashe had engaged a well-recommended elderly english maid to come every morning and take care of amy while they were out; and with this respectable functionary, whose ideas were of a rigidly british type and who did not speak a word of any language but her own, poor amy was compelled to spend most of her time. her only consolation was in persuading this serene attendant to take a part in the french lessons which she made a daily point of giving to mabel out of her own little phrase-book.
"wilkins is getting on, i think," she told katy one night. "she says 'biscuit glacé' quite nicely now. but i never will let her look at the book, though she always wants to; for if once she saw how the words are spelled, she would never in the world pronounce them right again. they look so very different, you know."
katy looked at amy's pale little face and eager eyes with a real heartache. her rapture when at the end of the long dull afternoons her mother returned to her was touching. paris was very triste to poor amy, with all her happy facility for amusing herself; and katy felt that the sooner they got away from it the better it would be. so, in spite of the delight which her brief glimpses at the louvre gave her, and the fun it was to go about with mrs. ashe and see her buy pretty things, and the real satisfaction she took in the one perfectly made walking-suit to which she had treated herself, she was glad when the final day came, when the belated dressmakers and artistes in jackets and wraps had sent home their last wares, and the trunks were packed. it had been rather the fault of circumstances than of paris; but katy had not learned to love the beautiful capital as most americans do, and did not feel at all as if she wanted that her "reward of virtue" should be to go there when she died! there must be more interesting places for live people, and ghosts too, to be found on the map of europe, she was sure.
next morning as they drove slowly down the champs élysées, and looked back for a last glimpse of the famous arch, a bright object met their eyes, moving vaguely against the mist. it was the gay red wagon of the bon marché, carrying bundles home to the dwellers of some up-town street.
katy burst out laughing. "it is an emblem of paris," she said,—"of our paris, i mean. it has been all bon marché and fog!"
"miss katy," interrupted amy, "do you like europe? for my part, i was never so disgusted with any place in my life!"
"poor little bird, her views of 'europe' are rather dark just now, and no wonder," said her mother. "never mind, darling, you shall have something pleasanter by and by if i can find it for you."
"burnet is a great deal pleasanter than paris," pronounced amy, decidedly. "it doesn't keep always raining there, and i can take walks, and i understand everything that people say."
all that day they sped southward, and with every hour came a change in the aspect of their surroundings. now they made brief stops in large busy towns which seemed humming with industry. now they whirled through grape countries with miles of vineyards, where the brown leaves still hung on the vines. then again came glimpses of old roman ruins, amphitheatres, viaducts, fragments of wall or arch; or a sudden chill betokened their approach to mountains, where snowy peaks could be seen on the far horizon. and when the long night ended and day roused them from broken slumbers, behold, the world was made over! autumn had vanished, and the summer, which they thought fled for good, had taken his place. green woods waved about them, fresh leaves were blowing in the wind, roses and hollyhocks beckoned from white-walled gardens; and before they had done with exclaiming and rejoicing, the mediterranean shot into view, intensely blue, with white fringes of foam, white sails blowing across, white gulls flying above it, and over all a sky of the same exquisite blue, whose clouds were white as the drifting sails on the water below, and they were at marseilles.
it was like a glimpse of paradise to eyes fresh from autumnal grays and glooms, as they sped along the lovely coast, every curve and turn showing new combinations of sea and shore, olive-crowned cliff and shining mountain-peak. with every mile the blue became bluer, the wind softer, the feathery verdure more dense and summer-like. hyères and cannes and antibes were passed, and then, as they rounded a long point, came the view of a sunshiny city lying on a sunlit shore; the train slackened its speed, and they knew that their journey's end was come and they were in nice.
the place seemed to laugh with gayety as they drove down the promenade des anglais and past the english garden, where the band was playing beneath the acacias and palm-trees. on one side was a line of bright-windowed hotels and pensions, with balconies and striped awnings; on the other, the long reach of yellow sand-beach, where ladies were grouped on shawls and rugs, and children ran up and down in the sun, while beyond stretched the waveless sea. the december sun felt as warm as on a late june day at home, and had the same soft caressing touch. the pavements were thronged with groups of leisurely-looking people, all wearing an unmistakable holiday aspect; pretty girls in correct parisian costumes walked demurely beside their mothers, with cavaliers in attendance; and among these young men appeared now and again the well-known uniform of the united states navy.
"i wonder," said mrs. ashe, struck by a sudden thought, "if by any chance our squadron is here." she asked the question the moment they entered the hotel; and the porter, who prided himself on understanding "zose eenglesh," replied,—
"mais oui, madame, ze americaine fleet it is here; zat is, not here, but at villefranche, just a leetle four mile away,—it is ze same zing exactly."
"katy, do you hear that?" cried mrs. ashe. "the frigates are here, and the 'natchitoches' among them of course; and we shall have ned to go about with us everywhere. it is a real piece of good luck for us. ladies are at such a loss in a place like this with nobody to escort them. i am perfectly delighted."
"so am i," said katy. "i never saw a frigate, and i always wanted to see one. do you suppose they will let us go on board of them?"
"why, of course they will." then to the porter, "give me a sheet of paper and an envelope, please.—i must let ned know that i am here at once."
mrs. ashe wrote her note and despatched it before they went upstairs to take off their bonnets. she seemed to have a half-hope that some bird of the air might carry the news of her arrival to her brother, for she kept running to the window as if in expectation of seeing him. she was too restless to lie down or sleep, and after she and katy had lunched, proposed that they should go out on the beach for a while.
"perhaps we may come across ned," she remarked.
they did not come across ned, but there was no lack of other delightful objects to engage their attention. the sands were smooth and hard as a floor. soft pink lights were beginning to tinge the western sky. to the north shone the peaks of the maritime alps, and the same rosy glow caught them here and there, and warmed their grays and whites into color.
"i wonder what that can be?" said katy, indicating the rocky point which bounded the beach to the east, where stood a picturesque building of stone, with massive towers and steep pitches of roof. "it looks half like a house and half like a castle, but it is quite fascinating, i think. do you suppose that people live there?"
"we might ask," suggested mrs. ashe.
just then they came to a shallow river spanned by a bridge, beside whose pebbly bed stood a number of women who seemed to be washing clothes by the simple and primitive process of laying them in the water on top of the stones, and pounding them with a flat wooden paddle till they were white. katy privately thought that the clothes stood a poor chance of lasting through these cleansing operations; but she did not say so, and made the inquiry which mrs. ashe had suggested, in her best french.
"celle-là?" answered the old woman whom she had addressed. "mais c'est la pension suisse."
"a pension; why, that means a boarding-house," cried katy. "what fun it must be to board there!"
"well, why shouldn't we board there!" said her friend. "you know we meant to look for rooms as soon as we were rested and had found out a little about the place. let us walk on and see what the pension suisse is like. if the inside is as pleasant as the outside, we could not do better, i should think."
"oh, i do hope all the rooms are not already taken," said katy, who had fallen in love at first sight with the pension suisse. she felt quite oppressed with anxiety as they rang the bell.
the pension suisse proved to be quite as charming inside as out. the thick stone walls made deep sills and embrasures for the casement windows, which were furnished with red cushions to serve as seats and lounging-places. every window seemed to command a view, for those which did not look toward the sea looked toward the mountains. the house was by no means full, either. several sets of rooms were to be had; and katy felt as if she had walked straight into the pages of a romance when mrs. ashe engaged for a month a delightful suite of three, a sitting-room and two sleeping-chambers, in a round tower, with a balcony overhanging the water, and a side window, from which a flight of steps led down into a little walled garden, nestled in among the masonry, where tall laurestinus and lemon trees grew, and orange and brown wallflowers made the air sweet. her contentment knew no bounds.
"i am so glad that i came," she told mrs. ashe. "i never confessed it to you before; but sometimes.—when we were sick at sea, you know, and when it would rain all the time, and after amy caught that cold in paris—i have almost wished, just for a minute or two at a time, that we hadn't. but now i wouldn't not have come for the world! this is perfectly delicious. i am glad, glad, glad we are here, and we are going to have a lovely time, i know."
they were passing out of the rooms into the hall as she said these words, and two ladies who were walking up a cross passage turned their heads at the sound of her voice. to her great surprise katy recognized mrs. page and lilly.
"why, cousin olivia, is it you?" she cried, springing forward with the cordiality one naturally feels in seeing a familiar face in a foreign land.
mrs. page seemed rather puzzled than cordial. she put up her eyeglass and did not seem to quite make out who katy was.
"it is katy carr, mamma," explained lilly. "well, katy, this is a surprise! who would have thought of meeting you in nice!"
there was a decided absence of rapture in lilly's manner. she was prettier than ever, as katy saw in a moment, and beautifully dressed in soft brown velvet, which exactly suited her complexion and her pale-colored wavy hair.
"katy carr! why, so it is," admitted mrs. page. "it is a surprise indeed. we had no idea that you were abroad. what has brought you so far from tunket,—burnet, i mean? who are you with?"
"with my friend mrs. ashe," explained katy, rather chilled by this cool reception.
"let me introduce you. mrs. ashe, these are my cousins mrs. page and miss page. amy,—why where is amy?"
amy had walked back to the door of the garden staircase, and was standing there looking down upon the flowers.
cousin olivia bowed rather distantly. her quick eye took in the details of mrs. ashe's travelling-dress and katy's dark blue ulster.
"some countrified friend from that dreadful western town where they live," she said to herself. "how foolish of philip carr to try to send his girls to europe! he can't afford it, i know." her voice was rather rigid as she inquired,—
"and what brings you here?—to this house, i mean?"
"oh, we are coming to-morrow to stay; we have taken rooms for a month," explained katy. "what a delicious-looking old place it is."
"have you?" said lilly, in a voice which did not express any particular pleasure. "why, we are staying here too."
