continuation of fremont's account of the passage through the mountains.
"we had hard and doubtful labor yet before us, as the snow appeared to be heavier where the timber began further down, with few open spots. ascending a height, we traced out the best line we could discover for the next day's march, and had at least the consolation to see that the mountain descended rapidly. the day had been one of april; gusty, with a few occasional flakes of snow; which, in the afternoon enveloped the upper mountains in clouds. we watched them anxiously, as now we dreaded a snow storm. shortly afterwards we heard the roll of thunder, and looking toward the valley, found it all enveloped in a thunderstorm. for us, as connected with the idea of summer, it had a singular charm; and we watched its progress with excited feelings until nearly sunset, when the sky cleared off brightly, and we saw a shining line of water directing its course towards another, a broader and larger sheet. we knew that these could be no other than the sacramento and the bay of san francisco; but, after our long wandering in rugged mountains, where so frequently we had met with disappointments, and where the crossing of every ridge displayed some unknown lake or river, we were yet almost afraid to believe that we were at last to escape into the genial country of which we have heard so many glowing descriptions, and dreaded again to find some vast interior lake, whose bitter waters would bring us disappointment. on the southern shore of what appeared to be the bay, could be traced the gleaming line where entered another large stream; and again the buenaventura rose up in our mind.
"carson had entered the valley along the southern side of the bay, but the country then was so entirely covered with water from snow and rain, that he had been able to form no correct impression of watercourses.
"we had the satisfaction to know that at least there were people below. fires were lit up in the valley just at night, appearing to be in answer to ours; and these signs of life renewed, in some measure, the gayety of the camp. they appeared so near, that we judged them to be among the timber of some of the neighboring ridges; but, having them constantly in view day after day, and night after night, we afterwards found them to be fires that had been kindled by the indians among the tulares, on the shore of the bay, eighty miles distant.
"axes and mauls were necessary today to make a road through the snow. going ahead with carson to reconnoitre the road, we reached in the afternoon the river which made the outlet of the lake. carson sprang over, clear across a place where the stream was compressed among rocks, but the parfleche sole of my moccasin glanced from the icy rock, and precipitated me into the river. it was some few seconds before i could recover myself in the current, and carson, thinking me hurt, jumped in after me, and we both had an icy bath. we tried to search a while for my gun, which had been lost in the fall, but the cold drove us out; and making a large fire on the bank, after we had partially dried ourselves we went back to meet the camp. we afterwards found that the gun had been slung under the ice which lined the banks of the creek.
"the sky was clear and pure, with a sharp wind from the northeast, and the thermometer 20 below the freezing point.
"we continued down the south face of the mountain; our road leading over dry ground, we were able to avoid the snow almost entirely. in the course of the morning we struck a foot path, which we were generally able to keep; and the ground was soft to our animals feet, being sandy or covered with mould. green grass began to make its appearance, and occasionally we passed a hill scatteringly covered with it. the character of the forest continued the same; and, among the trees, the pine with sharp leaves and very large cones was abundant, some of them being noble trees. we measured one that had ten feet diameter, though the height was not more than one hundred and thirty feet. all along, the river was a roaring torrent, its fall very great; and, descending with a rapidity to which we had long been strangers, to our great pleasure oak trees appeared on the ridge, and soon became very frequent; on these i remarked unusually great quantities of mistletoe.
"the opposite mountain side was very steep and continuous—unbroken by ravines, and covered with pines and snow; while on the side we were travelling, innumerable rivulets poured down from the ridge. continuing on, we halted a moment at one of these rivulets, to admire some beautiful evergreen trees, resembling live oak, which shaded the little stream. they were forty to fifty feet high, and two in diameter, with a uniform tufted top; and the summer green of their beautiful foliage, with the singing birds, and the sweet summer wind which was whirling about the dry oak leaves, nearly intoxicated us with delight; and we hurried on, filled with excitement, to escape entirely from the horrid region of inhospitable snow, to the perpetual spring of the sacramento.
"february 25.—believing that the difficulties of the road were passed, and leaving mr. fitzpatrick to follow slowly, as the condition of the animals required, i started ahead this morning with a party of eight, consisting (with myself) of mr. preuss, and mr. talbot, carson, derosier, towns, proue, and jacob. we took with us some of the best animals, and my intention was to proceed as rapidly as possible to the house of mr. sutter, and return to meet the party with a supply of provisions and fresh animals.
"near night fall we descended into the steep ravine of a handsome creek thirty feet wide, and i was engaged in getting the horses up the opposite hill, when i heard a shout from carson, who had gone ahead a few hundred yards. 'life yet,' said he, as he came up, 'life yet; i have found a hillside sprinkled with grass enough for the night.' we drove along our horses, and encamped at the place about dark, and there was just room enough to make a place for shelter on the edge of the stream. three horses were lost today—proveau; a fine young horse from the columbia, belonging to charles towns; and another indian horse which carried our cooking utensils; the two former gave out, and the latter strayed off into the woods as we reached the camp: and derosier knowing my attachment to proveau, volunteered to go and bring him in.
"carson and i climbed one of the nearest mountains; the forest land still extended ahead, and the valley appeared as far as ever. the pack horse was found near the camp, but derosier did not get in.
"we began to be uneasy at derosier's absence, fearing he might have been bewildered in the woods. charles towns, who had not yet recovered his mind, went to swim in the river, as if it was summer, and the stream placid, when it was a cold mountain torrent foaming among the rocks. we were happy to see derosier appear in the evening. he came in, and sitting down by the fire, began to tell us where he had been. he imagined he had been gone several days, and thought we were still at the camp where he had left us; and we were pained to see that his mind was deranged. it appeared that he had been lost in the mountain, and hunger and fatigue, joined to weakness of body, and fear of perishing in the mountains had crazed him. the times were severe when stout men lost their minds from extremity of suffering—when horses died—and when mules and horses, ready to die of starvation, were killed for food. yet there was no murmuring or hesitation. in the meantime mr. preuss continued on down the river, and unaware that we had encamped so early in the day, was lost. when night arrived and he did not come in, we began to understand what had happened to him; but it was too late to make any search.
"march 3.—we followed mr. preuss's trail for a considerable distance along the river, until we reached a place where he had descended to the stream below and encamped. here we shouted and fired guns, but received no answer; and we concluded that he had pushed on down the stream. i determined to keep out from the river, along which it was nearly impracticable to travel with animals, until it should form a valley. at every step the country improved in beauty; the pines were rapidly disappearing, and oaks became the principal trees of the forest. among these, the prevailing tree was the evergreen oak (which, by way of distinction, we shall call the live oak); and with these, occurred frequently a new species of oak, bearing a long, slender acorn, from an inch to an inch and a half in length, which we now began to see formed the principal vegetable food of the inhabitants of this region. in a short distance we crossed a little rivulet, where were two old huts and near by were heaps of acorn hulls. the ground round about was very rich, covered with an exuberant sward of grass; and we sat down for a while in the shade of the oaks to let the animals feed. we repeated our shouts for mr. preuss; and this time we were gratified with an answer. the voice grew rapidly nearer, ascending from the river, but when we expected to see him emerge, it ceased entirely. we had called up some straggling indian—the first we had met, although for two days back we had seen tracks—who, mistaking us for his fellows, had been only undeceived by getting close up. it would have been pleasant to witness his astonishment; he would not have been more frightened had some of the old mountain spirits they are so much afraid of suddenly appeared in his path. ignorant of the character of these people, we had now additional cause of uneasiness in regard to mr. preuss; he had no arms with him, and we began to think his chance doubtful. occasionally we met deer, but had not the necessary time for hunting. at one of these orchard grounds, we encamped about noon to make an effort for mr. preuss. one man took his way along a spur leading into the river, in hope to cross his trail, and another took our own back. both were volunteers; and to the successful man was promised a pair of pistols—not as a reward, but as a token of gratitude for a service which would free us all from much anxiety."
at the end of four days, mr. preuss surprised and delighted his friends by walking into camp. he had lived on roots and acorns and was in the last stages of exhaustion.
shortly the advance party reached sutter's fort where they received the most hospitable treatment. all their wants were abundantly supplied, and provisions were sent back to fitzpatrick and his party.
