the diversity of climates within the tropics.

causes by which it is produced—abundance and distribution of rain within the tropics—the trade winds—the belt of calms—tropical rains—the monsoons—tornados—cyclones—typhoons—storms in the pacific—devastations caused by hurricanes on pitcairn island and rarotonga.

on surveying the various regions of the torrid zone, we find that nature has made many wonderful provisions to mitigate the heat of the vertical sun, to endow the equatorial lands with an amazing variety of climate, and to extend the benefit of the warmth generated within the tropics to countries situated far beyond their bounds.

thus, while the greater part of the northern temperate zone is occupied by land, the floods of ocean roll over by far the greater portion of the equatorial regions—for both torrid america and africa appear as mere islands in a vast expanse of sea.

the conversion of water, by evaporation, into a gaseous form is accompanied by the abstraction of heat from surrounding bodies, or, in popular language, by the production of cold; and thus over the surface of the ocean the rays of the sun have a tendency to check their own warming influence, and to impart2 a coolness to the atmosphere, the refreshing effects of which are felt wherever the sea wind blows. there can, therefore, be no doubt that, if the greater part of the tropical ocean were converted into land, the heat of the torrid zone would be far more intolerable than it is.

the restless breezes and currents, the perpetual migrations of the air and waters, perform a no less important part in cooling the equatorial and warming the temperate regions of the globe. rarefied by the intense heat of a vertical sun, the equatorial air-stream ascends in perpendicular columns high above the surface of the earth, and thence flows off towards the poles; while, to fill up the void, cold air-currents come rushing from the arctic and antarctic regions.

if caloric were the sole agent on which the direction of these antagonistic air-currents depended, they would naturally flow to the north and south; but the rotation of the earth gradually diverts them to the east and west, and thus the cold air-currents, or polar streams, ultimately change into the trade winds which regularly blow over the greater part of the tropical ocean from east to west, and materially contribute, by their refreshing coolness, to the health and comfort of the navigator whom they waft over the equatorial seas.

while the polar air-currents, though gradually warming as they advance, thus mitigate the heat of the torrid zone, the opposite equatorial breezes, which reach our coasts as moist south-westerly or westerly winds, soften the cold of our winters, and clothe our fields with a lively verdure during the greater part of the year. how truly magnificent is this grand system of the winds, which, by the constant interchange of heat and cold which it produces, thus imparts to one zone the beneficial influence of another, and renders both far more fit to be inhabited by civilized man. the greek navigators rendered homage to æolus, but they were far from having any idea of the admirable laws which govern the unstable, ever-fluctuating domains of the ‘god of the winds.’

the same unequal influence of solar warmth under the line and at the poles, which sets the air in constant motion, also compels the waters of the ocean to perpetual migrations, and produces those wonderful marine currents which like the analogous atmospheric streams, furrow in opposite directions the3 bosom of the sea. thanks to this salutary interchange, the gulf stream, issuing from the mexican sea, and thence flowing to the north and east, conveys a portion of its original warmth as far as the west coast of spitzbergen and nowaja semlja; while in the southern hemisphere we see the peruvian stream impart the refrigerating influence of the antarctic waters to the eastern coast of south america.

the geographical distribution of the land within the tropics likewise tends to counterbalance or to mitigate the excessive heat of a vertical sun; for a glance over the map shows us at once that it is mostly either insular or extending its narrow length between two oceans, thus multiplying the surface over which the sea is able to exert its influence. the indian archipelago, the peninsula of malacca, the antilles, and central america, are all undoubtedly indebted to the waters which bathe their coasts for a more temperate climate than that which they would have had if grouped together in one vast continent.

the temperature of a country proportionally decreases with its elevation; and thus the high situation of many tropical lands moderates the effects of equatorial heat, and endows them with a climate similar to that of the temperate, or even of the cold regions of the globe. the andes and the himalaya, the most stupendous mountain-chains of the world, raise their snow-clad summits either within the tropics or immediately beyond their verge, and must be considered as colossal refrigerators, ordained by providence to counteract the effects of the vertical sunbeams over a vast extent of land. in western tropical america, in asia, and in africa, we find immense countries rising like terraces thousands of feet above the level of the ocean, and reminding the european traveller of his distant northern home by their productions and their cooler temperature. thus, by means of a few simple physical and geological causes acting and reacting upon each other on a magnificent scale, nature has bestowed a wonderful variety of climate upon the tropical regions, producing a no less wonderful diversity of plants and animals.

but warmth alone is not sufficient to call forth a luxuriant vegetation: it can only exert its powers when combined with a sufficient degree of moisture; and it chiefly depends upon the presence or absence of water whether a tropical country4 appears as a naked waste or decked with the most gorgeous vegetation.

as the evaporation of the tropical ocean is far more considerable than that of the sea in higher latitudes, the atmospherical precipitations (dew, rain) caused by the cooling of the air are far more abundant in the torrid zone than in the temperate regions of the earth. while the annual fall of rain within the tropics amounts, on an average, to about eight feet, it attains in europe a height of only thirty inches; and under the clear equatorial sky the dew is often so abundant as to equal in its effects a moderate shower of rain.

but this enormous mass of moisture is most unequally distributed; for while the greater part of the sahara and the peruvian sand-coast are constantly arid, and south africa and north australia suffer from long-continued droughts, we find other tropical countries refreshed by almost daily showers. the direction of the prevailing winds, the condensing powers of high mountains and of forests, the relative position of a country, the nature of its soil, are the chief causes which produce an abundance or want of rain, and consequently determine the fertility or barrenness of the land. of these causes, the first-mentioned is by far the most general in its effects—so that a knowledge of the tropical winds is above all things necessary to give us an insight into the distribution of moisture over the equatorial world.

i have already mentioned the trade winds, or cool reactionary currents called forth by the ascending equatorial air-stream; but it will now be necessary to submit them to a closer examination, and follow them in their circular course throughout the tropical regions. in the northern atlantic, their influence, varying with the season, extends to 22° n. lat. in winter, and 39° n. lat. in summer; while in the southern hemisphere they reach no farther than 18° s. lat. in winter, and 28° or 30° s. lat. in summer.

in the pacific, their limits vary between 21° and 31° n. lat., and between 23° and 33° s. lat.; so that, on the whole, they have here a more southern position, owing, no doubt, to the vast extent of open sea; while in the atlantic the influence of the neighbouring continents forces them to the north, and even causes the trade winds of the southern hemisphere to ascend5 beyond the equatorial line. their character is that of a continual soft breeze—strongest in the morning, remitting at noon, and again increasing in the evening. in the neighbourhood of the coasts, except over very small islands, they become weaker, and generally cease to be felt at a distance of about fifteen or twenty miles from the sea, though, of course, at greater heights they continue their course uninterruptedly over the land.

for obvious reasons the trade winds have been much more accurately investigated upon the ocean than on land, particularly in the northern atlantic, which is better known in its physical features than any other sea, as being a highway for numberless vessels to which the study of the winds is a matter of the greatest importance; yet, in spite of so many disturbing influences, their course, even over the continents, has been ascertained by travellers. north-easterly winds almost constantly sweep over the sahara; and in south africa, dr. livingstone informs us that north-easterly and south-easterly winds blow over the whole continent between 12° and 6° s. lat., even as far as angola, where they unite with the sea winds.

in brazil, the presence of the trade winds has been determined with still greater accuracy. thus easterly breezes almost perpetually sweep over the boundless plains up to the slopes of the andes, and even in paraguay (25° s. lat.) a mild east wind constantly arises in summer after the setting of the sun.

as the trade winds originate in the coldest, and thence pass onwards to the warmer regions, they are, of course, constantly absorbing moisture as they advance over the seas. saturated with vapours, they reach the islands and continents, where, meeting with various refrigerating influences (mountain-chains, forests, terrestrial radiation), their condensing vapours give rise to an abundance both of rain and dew. it is owing to their influence that in general, within the tropics, the eastern coasts, or the eastern slopes of the mountains, are better watered than the interior of the continents or lands with a western exposure.

an example on the grandest scale is afforded to us by south america, where the andes of peru and bolivia so effectually drain the prevailing east winds of their moisture, that while numberless rivulets, the feeders of the gigantic marañon, clothe their eastern gorges with a perpetual verdure, their western slopes are almost constantly arid. such is the influence of this6 colossal barrier in interrupting the course of the air-current, that the trade wind only begins to be felt again on the pacific at a distance of one hundred or even one hundred and fifty miles from the shore.

in south africa, also, we find the eastern mountainous coast-lands covered with giant timber—in striking contrast with the parched savannas or dreary wastes of the interior; and in the south sea the difference of verdure between the east and west coasts of the sandwich islands, the feejees, and many other groups, never fails to arrest the attention of the mariner.

the trade winds of the northern and southern hemispheres do not, however, blow in one continuous stream over the whole breadth of the tropical ocean, but are separated from each other by a zone or belt of calms, occasioned by their mutually paralysing each other’s influence on meeting from the north and the south-east, and by the attraction of the sun, which, when in the zenith, changes the easterly air-currents into an ascending stream. from this dependence on the position of the sun, it may easily be inferred that the zone of calms fluctuates, like the trade winds themselves, to the north or south, according to the seasons; and that it is far from invariably occupying the same degrees of latitude, or the same width, at all times of the year. in the atlantic, from the causes previously mentioned, it constantly remains to the north of the line, where its breadth averages five or six degrees; in the pacific it more generally extends during the antarctic summer, on both sides of the equator.

besides the intensity of its heat, the zone of calms is characterised by heavy showers, which regularly fall in the afternoon, and are caused by the cooling of the saturated air-columns in the higher regions of the air.

daily, towards noon, dense clouds form in the sky, and dissolve in torrents of rain under fearful electrical explosions, now sooner, now later, of shorter or longer continuance, with increasing or abating violence, as the sun is more or less in his zenith. towards evening the vapours disperse, and the sun sets in a clear, unclouded horizon. thus towns or countries situated within the calms, such as para, quito, bogota, guayaquil, the kingsmill islands, may be said to have a perennial rainy season, as showers fall at every season of the year. to the7 north and south of the belt of calms, we find in both hemispheres a broad zone, characterised by two distinct rainy seasons, separated by two equally distinct periods of dry weather. the rainy seasons take place while the sun is crossing the zenith, and more or less paralysing the power of the trade winds. cayenne, honduras, jamaica, pernambuco, bahia, afford us examples of these well-defined alterations. in jamaica, for instance (18° n. lat.), the first rainy season begins in april, the second in october; the first dry season in june, and the second in december.

towards the verge of the tropics follow the zones which are characterised by a single rainy season, but of a longer continuance, generally lasting six months, throughout the summer, or from one equinoctium to another. in these parts, the rainy season is also the warmest period of the year, since here the different height of the sun in winter and summer is already so considerable, that at the time of culmination the clouds and rain are not able to reduce the temperature below that of the clear and dry winter months; while in the zones which are situated nearer to the equator, the rainy season, in spite of the sun’s culmination, is always the coolest.

to sum up the foregoing remarks in a few words: the two rainy seasons, which characterise the middle zone between each tropic and the line, have a tendency to pass into one annual rainy season on advancing towards the tropics, and to merge into a permanent rainy season on approaching the equator. as the sun goes to the north or south, he opens the sluices of heaven, and closes them as he passes to another hemisphere.

such may be said to be the normal state which would everywhere obtain within the equatorial regions if one unbounded ocean covered their surface, and none of the disturbing influences previously mentioned interfered; but as we find the trade winds so frequently deflected from their course, we must also naturally expect the general or theoretical order of the dry and rainy seasons to be liable to great modifications.

thus, in the indian ocean and in the chinese sea, terrestrial influences prevail during the summer which completely divert the trade wind, there called the north-east monsoon, from its regular path. from the wide lands of south-eastern asia, glowing, during the summer months, with a torrid heat, the8 rarefied air, as it rises into the higher regions, completely overpowers the usual course of the trade wind, and changes it into the south-western monsoon, which blows from may to september.

hence, during the summer months, the saturated sea wind, striking against the western ghauts, brings rain to the coast of malabar, while the opposite coast of coromandel remains dry; but the inverse takes place when, from the sun’s declining to the south, the north-east trade wind resumes its sway.

similar deflections from the ordinary course of the trade winds occur also on the coast of guinea (5° n. lat.), in the mexican gulf, and in that part of the pacific which borders on central america, through the influence of the heated plains of africa, utah, texas, and new mexico, and have a similar influence on the distribution of moisture. thus the sea monsoon, which prevails during the summer months on the coast of northern guinea, carries a rainy season over the land as far as the eighteenth or nineteenth degree of northern latitude, and fertilises a vast extent of country which, from its position on the western side of an immense continent, would otherwise have been as naked and barren as the sahara.

as the tropical rains, though generally confined only to part of the year, and then only to a few hours of the day, fall in so much greater abundance than under our constantly drooping skies, it may naturally be supposed that the single showers must be proportionally violent. descending in streams so close and so dense that the level ground, unable to absorb it sufficiently fast, is covered with a sheet of water, the rain rushes down the hill-sides in a volume that wears channels in the surface. for hours together the noise of the torrent, as it beats upon the trees and bursts upon the roofs, occasions an uproar that drowns the ordinary voice and renders sleep impossible. in bombay nearly nine inches of rain have been known to fall in one day, and twelve inches in calcutta, or nearly half the mean annual quantity of rain on the east coast of england. during one single storm which castelnau witnessed at pebas, on the amazon, there fell not less than thirty inches of rain—nearly as much as the annual supply of our west coast. the hollow trunk of an enormous tree in an exposed situation gave the french traveller the means of accurate measurement.

9 as in the equatorial regions the atmospherical precipitations are far more considerable than in the temperate zones, so also their storms rage with a violence unknown in our climes. in the indian and chinese seas these convulsions of nature generally take place at the change of the monsoons; in the west indies, at the beginning and at the end of the rainy seasons. the tornado which devastated the island of guadeloupe on the 25th july, 1846, blew down buildings constructed of solid stone, and tore the guns of a battery from their carriages; another, which raged some years back in the mauritius, demolished a church and drove thirty-two vessels on the strand. on the beagle’s arrival in port louis, after her long and arduous surveying voyage, a fleet of crippled vessels, the victims of a recent hurricane, might have been seen making their way into the harbour—some dismasted, others kept afloat with difficulty, firing guns of distress or giving other signs of their helpless condition. ‘on the now tranquil surface of the harbour lay a group of shattered vessels, presenting the appearance of floating wrecks. in almost all, the bulwarks, boats, and everything on deck, had been swept away; some, that were towed in, had lost all their masts; others, more or less of their spars; one had her poop and all its cabins swept away; many had four or five feet of water in the hold, and the clank of the pumps was still kept up by the weary crew.’1

such are the terrible effects of the tornados and cyclones of the atlantic and the indian oceans; but the storms of the miscalled pacific are no less furious and destructive. a hurricane, which on the 15th of april, 1845, burst over pitcairn island, washed all the fertile mould from the rocks, and, uprooting 300 cocoa-nut trees, cast them into the sea. every fishing-boat on the island was destroyed, and thousands of fruit-bearing bananas were swept away.

the celebrated missionary, john williams,2 describes a similar catastrophe which befell the beautiful island of rarotonga on the 23rd of december, 1831. the chapels, school-houses, mission-houses, and nearly all the dwellings of the natives, no less than a thousand in number, were levelled to the ground. every particle of food on the island was destroyed.10 of the thousands of banana or plantain trees which had covered and adorned the land, scarcely one was left standing, either on the plains, in the valleys, or upon the mountains. stately trees, that had withstood the storms of ages, were laid prostrate on the ground, and thrown upon each other in the wildest confusion; while even of those that were still standing, many were left without a branch, and all perfectly leafless. so great and so general was the destruction, that no spot escaped; for the gale, veering gradually round the island, did most effectually its devastating work.

though the tropical storms are thus frequently a scourge, they are often productive of no less signal benefits. many a murderous epidemic has suddenly ceased after one of these natural convulsions, and myriads of insects, the destroyers of the planter’s hopes, are swept away by the fierce tornado. besides, if the equatorial hurricanes are far more furious than our storms, a more luxurious vegetation effaces their vestiges in a shorter time. thus nature teaches us that a preponderance of good is frequently concealed behind the paroxysms of her apparently unbridled rage.

savannah on fire.