dinant made me think of pompeii. it had been one of the pleasure-spots of belgium; gay, smiling, it stretched along the tranquil meuse, at the base of granite bluffs and beech-covered hill-slopes. there were factories, it is true, at either end of the town; but they had not marred it. every year thousands of visitors, chiefly english and germans, had stopt there to forget life’s grimness. dinant could make one forget: she was joyous, lovable, laughing. before the tragedy of her ruins, one felt exactly as if a happy child had been crusht or mutilated.
i came to dinant in september, 1916, [28]by the way of one of the two cemeteries where her 600, shot in august, 1914, are buried. this burial-ground is on a sunny hill-slope overlooking rolling wheat fields, and the martyred lie in long rows at the upper corner. a few have been interred in their family plots, but mostly they are gathered in this separate place.
up and down i followed the narrow paths; the crowded plain white crosses with their laconic inscriptions spoke as no historian ever will. “father, husband, and son”; “brother and nephew”; “husband and sons, one seventeen, and another nineteen”; “brother and father”; “husband and brother”; “brother, sons and father”; “father and son”—the dirge of the desolation of wives and sisters and mothers! war that had left them the flame-scarred skeletons of their homes, had left them the corpses of their loved ones as well!
dinant was not entirely destroyed, but [29]a great part of it was. a few days after the burning, people began to crawl back. they came from hiding-places in the hills, from near-by villages, from up and down the river, to take up life where they had left it. human beings are most extraordinarily adaptable: people were asked where they were living; no one could answer exactly, but all knew that they were living somewhere, somehow—in the sheltered corner of a ruined room, perhaps in a cave, or beside a chimney! the relief committee hurried in food and clothing, hastily constructed a few temporary cottages; a few persons began to rebuild their original homes, and life went on.
i was walking through a particularly devastated section, nothing but skeleton fa?ades and ragged walls in sight, when suddenly from the midst of the devastation i heard the merry laughter of children. i pushed ahead to look around the [30]other side of a wall, and there was a most incredible picture. in front of a low temporary building tucked in among the ruins, was a series of railed-in pens for children to play in. and there they were romping riotously—fifty-two golden-haired, lovely babies, all under four! along the front of the enclosure was a series of tall poles carrying gaily painted cocks and cats and lions. that is the belgian touch; no relief center is too discouraging to be at once transformed into something cheering, even beautiful. the babies had on bright pink-and-white checked aprons. i let myself in, and they dashed for me, pulling my coat, hiding in the folds of my skirt, deciding at once that i was a good horse.
then happened a horrible thing. one of the tiniest, with blue eyes and golden curls, ran over to me laughing and calling, “madame, mon père est mort!” [31]“madame, my father is dead, my father is dead, he was shot!” i covered my ears with my hands, then snatched her up and silenced her. there were others ready to call the same thing, but the nurses stopt them.
the little ones went on with their romping while i passed inside to see the equipment for caring for them. in a good-sized, airy room were long rows of white cradles, one for each child, with his or her name and age written on a white card at the top. after their play and their dinner they were put to sleep in these fresh cradles.
they were brought by their mothers or friends before seven in the morning, to be taken care of until seven at night. they were bathed, their clothing was changed to a sort of simple uniform, and then they were turned loose outside to play, or to be amused in various ways by the faithful nurses. they were weighed regularly, examined by a physician, and [32]daily given the nourishing food provided by the relief committee. in fact, they had the splendid care common to the 1,900 crèches or children’s shelters in belgium. but this crèche was alone in its strange, tragic setting.
in the midst of utter ruin are swung the white cradles. in front of them, under the guardianship of gay cocks and lions, golden-haired babies are laughing and romping. further on more ruins, desolation, silence!
