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Chapter 18 Fashion and Physiology

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"please, sir, i guess you'd better step up right away, or it will be toolate, for i heard miss rose say she knew you wouldn't like it, andshe'd never dare to let you see her."phebe said this as she popped her head into the study, where dr.

alec sat reading a new book.

"they are at it, are they?" he said, looking up quickly, and givinghimself a shake, as if ready for a battle of some sort.

"yes, sir, as hard as they can talk, and miss rose don't seem toknow what to do, for the things are ever so stylish, and she lookselegant in 'em; though i like her best in the old ones," answeredphebe.

"you are a girl of sense. i'll settle matters for rosy, and you'll lenda hand. is everything ready in her room, and are you sure youunderstand how they go?""oh, yes, sir; but they are so funny! i know miss rose will thinkit's a joke," and phebe laughed as if something tickled herimmensely.

"never mind what she thinks so long as she obeys. tell her to do itfor my sake, and she will find it the best joke she ever saw. iexpect to have a tough time of it, but we'll win yet," said thedoctor, as he marched upstairs with the book in his hand, and anodd smile on his face.

there was such a clatter of tongues in the sewing-room that no oneheard his tap at the door, so he pushed it open and took anobservation. aunt plenty, aunt clara, and aunt jessie were allabsorbed in gazing at rose, who slowly revolved between themand the great mirror, in a full winter costume of the latest fashion.

"bless my heart! worse even than i expected," thought the doctor,with an inward groan, for, to his benighted eyes, the girl lookedlike a trussed fowl, and the fine new dress had neither grace,beauty, nor fitness to recommend it.

the suit was of two peculiar shades of blue, so arranged thatpatches of light and dark distracted the eye. the upper skirt wastied so lightly back that it was impossible to take a long step, andthe under one was so loaded with plaited frills that it "wobbled" noother word will express it ungracefully, both fore and aft. a bunchof folds was gathered up just below the waist behind, and a greatbow rode a-top. a small jacket of the same material was adornedwith a high ruff at the back, and laid well open over the breast, todisplay some lace and a locket. heavy fringes, bows, puffs, ruffles,and revers finished off the dress, making one's head ache to thinkof the amount of work wasted, for not a single graceful line struckthe eye, and the beauty of the material was quite lost in theprofusion of ornament.

a high velvet hat, audaciously turned up in front, with a bunch ofpink roses and a sweeping plume, was cocked over one ear, and,with her curls braided into a club at the back of her neck, rose'shead looked more like that of a dashing young cavalier than amodest little girl's. high-heeled boots tilted her well forward, atiny muff pinioned her arms, and a spotted veil, tied so closelyover her face that her eyelashes were rumpled by it, gave the lasttouch of absurdity to her appearance.

"now she looks like other girls, and as i like to see her," mrs.

clara was saying, with an air of great satisfaction.

"she does look like a fashionable young lady, but somehow i missmy little rose, for children dressed like children in my day,"answered aunt plenty, peering through her glasses with a troubledlook, for she could not imagine the creature before her ever sittingin her lap, running to wait upon her, or making the house gay witha child's blithe presence.

"things have changed since your day, aunt, and it takes time toget used to new ways. but you, jessie, surely like this costumebetter than the dowdy things rose has been wearing all summer.

now, be honest, and own you do," said mrs. clara, bent on beingpraised for her work.

"well, dear to be quite honest, then, i think it is frightful,"answered mrs. jessie, with a candour that caused revolving roseto stop in dismay.

"hear, hear," cried a deep voice, and with a general start the ladiesbecame aware that the enemy was among them.

rose blushed up to her hat brim, and stood, looking, as she felt,like a fool, while mrs. clara hastened to explain.

"of course, i don't expect you to like it, alec, but i don't consideryou a judge of what is proper and becoming for a young lady.

therefore, i have taken the liberty of providing a pretty street suitfor rose. she need not wear it if you object, for i know wepromised to let you do what you liked with the poor dear for ayear.""it is a street costume, is it?" asked the doctor, mildly. "do youknow, i never should have guessed that it was meant for winterweather and brisk locomotion. take a turn, rosy, and let me seeall its beauties and advantages."rose tried to walk off with her usual free tread, but the under-skirtgot in her way, the over-skirt was so tight she could not take a longstep, and her boots made it impossible to carry herself perfectlyerect.

"i haven't got used to it yet," she said, petulantly, kicking at hertrain, as she turned to toddle back again.

"suppose a mad dog or a runaway horse was after you, could youget out of the way without upsetting, colonel," asked the doctor,with a twinkle in the eyes that were fixed on the rakish hat.

"don't think i could, but i'll try," and rose made a rush across theroom. her boot-heels caught on a rug, several strings broke, herhat tipped over her eyes, and she plunged promiscuously into achair, where she sat laughing so infectiously that all but mrs. clarajoined in her mirth.

"i should say that a walking suit in which one could not walk, anda winter suit which exposes the throat, head, and feet to cold anddamp, was rather a failure, clara, especially as it has no beauty toreconcile one to its utter unfitness," said dr. alec, as he helpedrose undo her veil, adding, in a low tone, "nice thing for the eyes;you'll soon see spots when it's off as well as when it's on, and, byand by, be a case for an oculist.""no beauty!" cried mrs. clara, warmly, "now, that is just a man'sblindness. this is the best of silk and camel's hair, real ostrichfeathers, and an expensive ermine muff. what could be in bettertaste, or more proper for a young girl?""i'll shew you, if rose will go to her room and oblige me byputting on what she finds there," answered the doctor, withunexpected readiness.

"alec, if it is a bloomer, i shall protest. i've been expecting it, but iknow i cannot bear to see that pretty child sacrificed to your wildideas of health. tell me it isn't a bloomer!" and mrs. clara claspedher hands imploringly.

"it is not.""thank heaven!" and she resigned herself with a sigh of relief,adding plaintively, "i did hope you'd accept my suit, for poor rosehas been afflicted with frightful clothes long enough to spoil thetaste of any girl.""you talk of my afflicting the child, and then make a helpless guylike that of her!" answered the doctor, pointing to the little fashionplate that was scuttling out of sight as fast as it could go.

he closed the door with a shrug, but before anyone could speak,his quick eye fell upon an object which caused him to frown, anddemand in an indignant tone"after all i have said, were you really going to tempt my girl withthose abominable things?""i thought we put them away when she wouldn't wear them,"murmured mrs. clara, whisking a little pair of corsets out of sightwith guilty haste. "i only brought them to try, for rose is growingstout, and will have no figure if it is not attended to soon," sheadded, with an air of calm conviction that roused the doctor stillmore, for this was one of his especial abominations.

"growing stout! yes, thank heaven, she is, and shall continue todo it, for nature knows how to mould a woman better than anycorset-maker, and i won't have her interfered with. my dear clara,have you lost your senses that you can for a moment dream ofputting a growing girl into an instrument of torture like this?" andwith a sudden gesture he plucked forth the offending corsets fromunder the sofa cushion, and held them out with the expression onewould wear on beholding the thumbscrews or the rack of ancienttimes.

"don't be absurd, alec. there is no torture about it, for tight lacingis out of fashion, and we have nice, sensible things nowadays.

everyone wears them; even babies have stiffened waists to supporttheir weak little backs," began mrs. clara, rushing to the defenceof the pet delusion of most women.

"i know it, and so the poor little souls have weak backs all theirdays, as their mothers had before them. it is vain to argue thematter, and i won't try, but i wish to state, once for all, that if i eversee a pair of corsets near rose, i'll put them in the fire, and youmay send the bill to me."as he spoke the corsets were on their way to destruction, but mrs.

jessie caught his arm, exclaiming merrily, "don't burn them, formercy sake, alec; they are full of whalebones, and will make adreadful odour. give them to me. i'll see that they do no harm.""whalebones, indeed! a regular fence of them, and metalgate-posts in front. as if our own bones were not enough, if we'dgive them a chance to do their duty," growled the doctor, yieldingup the bone of contention with a last shake of contempt. then hisface cleared suddenly, and he held up his finger, saying, with asmile, "hear those girls laugh; cramped lungs could not makehearty music like that."peals of laughter issued from rose's room, and smilesinvoluntarily touched the lips of those who listened to the happysound.

"some new prank of yours, alec?" asked aunt plenty, indulgently,for she had come to believe in most of her nephew's odd notions,because they seemed to work so well.

"yes, ma'am, my last, and i hope you will like it. i discovered whatclara was at, and got my rival suit ready for to-day. i'm not goingto 'afflict' rose, but let her choose, and if i'm not entirely mistaken,she will like my rig best. while we wait i'll explain, and then youwill appreciate the general effect better. i got hold of this littlebook, and was struck with its good sense and good taste, for itsuggests a way to clothe women both healthfully and handsomely,and that is a great point. it begins at the foundations, as you willsee if you will look at these pictures, and i should think womenwould rejoice at this lightening of their burdens."as he spoke, the doctor laid the book before aunt plenty, whoobediently brought her spectacles to bear upon the illustrations,and after a long look exclaimed, with a scandalised face"mercy on us, these things are like the night-drawers jamie wears!

you don't mean to say you want rose to come out in this costume?

it's not proper, and i won't consent to it!""i do mean it, and i'm sure my sensible aunt will consent when sheunderstands that these well i'll call them by an indian name, andsay pajamas are for underwear, and rose can have as pretty frocksas she likes outside. these two suits of flannel, each in one piecefrom head to foot, with a skirt or so hung on this easily-fittingwaist, will keep the child warm without burdening her with belts,and gathers, and buckles, and bunches round the waist, and leavefree the muscles that need plenty of room to work in. she shallnever have the back-ache if i can help it, nor the long list of illsyou dear women think you cannot escape.""i don't consider it modest, and i'm sure rose will be shocked atit," began mrs. clara, but stopped suddenly, as rose appeared inthe doorway, not looking shocked a bit.

"come on, my hygienic model, and let us see you," said her uncle,with an approving glance, as she walked in, looking somischievously merry, that it was evident she enjoyed the joke.

"well, i don't see anything remarkable. that is a neat, plain suit;the materials are good, and it's not unbecoming, if you want her tolook like a little school-girl; but it has not a particle of style, andno one would ever give it a second glance," said mrs. clara,feeling that her last remark condemned the whole thing.

"exactly what i want," answered the provoking doctor, rubbing hishands with a satisfied air. "rosy looks now like what she is, amodest little girl, who does not want to be stared at. i think shewould get a glance of approval, though, from people who likesense and simplicity rather than fuss and feathers. revolve, myhebe, and let me refresh my eyes by the sight of you."there was very little to see, however, only a pretty gabrielle dress,of a soft warm shade of brown, coming to the tops of a trim pair ofboots with low heels. a seal-skin sack, cap, and mittens, with aglimpse of scarlet at the throat, and the pretty curls tied up with abright velvet of the same colour, completed the externaladornment, making her look like a robin redbreast wintry, yetwarm.

"how do you like it, rosy?" asked the doctor, feeling that heropinion was more important to the success of his new idea thanthat of all the aunts on the hill.

"i feel very odd and light, but i'm warm as a toast, and nothingseems to be in my way," answered rose, with a skip whichdisplayed shapely gaiters on legs that now might be as free andactive as a boy's under the modest skirts of the girl.

"you can run away from the mad dogs, and walk off at a smartpace without tumbling on your nose, now, i fancy?""yes, uncle! suppose the dog coming, i just hop over a wall so andwhen i walk of a cold day, i go like this "entering fully into the spirit of the thing, rose swung herself overthe high back of the sofa as easily as one of her cousins, and thenwent down the long hall as if her stout boots were related to thefamous seven-leaguers.

"there! you see how it will be; dress her in that boyish way andshe will act like a boy. i do hate all these inventions ofstrong-minded women!" exclaimed mrs. clara, as rose came backat a run.

"ah, but you see some of these sensible inventions come from thebrain of a fashionable modiste, who will make you more lovely, orwhat you value more 'stylish' outside and comfortable within. mrs.

van tassel has been to madame stone, and is wearing a full suitof this sort. van himself told me, when i asked how she was, thatshe had given up lying on the sofa, and was going about in a mostastonishing way, considering her feeble health.""you don't say so! let me see that book a moment," and auntclara examined the new patterns with a more respectful air, for ifthe elegant mrs. van tassel wore these "dreadful things" it wouldnever do to be left behind, in spite of her prejudices.

dr. alec looked at mrs. jessie, and both smiled, for "little mum"had been in the secret, and enjoyed it mightily.

"i thought that would settle it," he said with a nod.

"i didn't wait for mrs. van to lead the way, and for once in my lifei have adopted a new fashion before clara. my freedom suit isordered, and you may see me playing tag with rose and the boysbefore long," answered mrs. jessie, nodding back at him.

meantime aunt plenty was examining rose's costume, for the hatand sack were off, and the girl was eagerly explaining the newunder-garments.

"see, auntie, all nice scarlet flannel, and a gay little petticoat, andlong stockings, oh, so warm! phebe and i nearly died laughingwhen i put this rig on, but i like it ever so much. the dress is socomfortable, and doesn't need any belt or sash, and i can sitwithout rumpling any trimming, that's such a comfort! i like to betidy, and so, when i wear fussed-up things, i'm thinking of myclothes all the time, and that's tiresome. do say you like it. iresolved i would, just to please uncle, for he does know moreabout health than anyone else, i'm sure, and i'd wear a bag if heasked me to do it.""i don't ask that, rose, but i wish you'd weigh and compare the twosuits, and then choose which seems best. i leave it to your owncommonsense," answered dr. alec, feeling pretty sure he had won.

"why, i take this one, of course, uncle. the other is fashionable,and yes i must say i think it's pretty but it's very heavy, and ishould have to go round like a walking doll if i wore it. i'm muchobliged to auntie, but i'll keep this, please."rose spoke gently but decidedly, though there was a look of regretwhen her eye fell on the other suit which phebe had brought in;and it was very natural to like to look as other girls did. aunt clarasighed; uncle alec smiled, and said heartily"thank you, dear; now read this book and you will understand whyi ask it of you. then, if you like, i'll give you a new lesson; youasked for one yesterday, and this is more necessary than french orhousekeeping.""oh, what?" and rose caught up the book which mrs. clara hadthrown down with a disgusted look.

though dr. alec was forty, the boyish love of teasing was not yetdead in him, and, being much elated at his victory, he could notresist the temptation of shocking mrs. clara by suggesting dreadfulpossibilities, so he answered, half in earnest, half in jest,"physiology, rose. wouldn't you like to be a little medical student,with uncle doctor for teacher, and be ready to take up his practicewhen he has to stop? if you agree, i'll hunt up my old skeletonto-morrow."that was too much for aunt clara, and she hastily departed, withher mind in a sad state of perturbation about mrs. van tassel'snew costume and rose's new study.

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