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CHAPTER IX THE PEOPLE AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS

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argentina is made up of a complex population. an argentinian is a person born in the country, just as we class our own population. perhaps nearly one-half of the inhabitants are foreign born, and most of them from the latin countries. a large proportion of the remainder do not have to go back more than one or two generations until a european ancestor is discovered. the latin races soon become mixed and cannot very easily be traced after a generation or two. the english and german settlers continue distinct and apart. they always remain foreign. the english traits in those who have lived there a generation or two are almost as marked as in those who have recently come over from the tight little island. the later spanish and italian immigrants are the workers and do most of the common labour. wherever newer methods have been introduced the influences are distinctly english. the railways[190] are all owned and operated by the english, and these have given the british touch to all the later developments.

there is an aristocracy in argentina as in all countries. the real aristocrat here, as in other spanish countries, is the pure-blooded castilian, who follows unfalteringly the traditions of his native land, and who prides himself more upon the accomplishments of the past than upon anything his family or race have done in modern times. the greater aristocracy, however, is not an aristocracy of the old spanish régime, such as one will find in chile or peru, but a more recent upper ten based upon wealth. the more picturesque attributes of a spanish civilization have almost disappeared beneath the spirit of modernism in buenos aires. the development of social grades all over the republic has been rapid and has kept pace with the opening up of new lands. it is possible even now to watch this development, which is still in process of evolution in the newer communities. a material prosperity has sometimes overwhelmed the other virtues and inherited characteristics. any way to make money is the aim of the argentinian, and an aristocracy of money has grown up.

[191]

the argentine magnate is not a man who has attained his prominence after a bitter and strenuous commercial struggle, which has developed a hard-headed, practical side, but his wealth has come through the automatic growth in the value of his expansive leagues of rich campo. his income has waxed greater each year through no effort of his own. so one will find the rich estanciero, intoxicated with his own wealth, disporting himself in the national capital on as lavish a scale as one will see in new york or london. these wealthy land aristocrats not only spend their money, but they are eternally bent on devising new ways for divesting themselves of the surplus pesos. it is spent lavishly and not always well, for the development of the finer tastes has not kept pace with the increase of material wealth.

some of these moneyed estancieros are descended from honest farmers, whose fathers had no intimation of the wealth that would fall to their descendants. they lived the simplest of existences, and looked upon their broad acres only as a source of food and shelter. then the land began to rise with almost incredible rapidity. a league that would have been wagered on a camp race soon represented a small fortune.[192] the approach of the railroad to his estancia showed the son that fortune was in his hands and he longed for excitement. a palace in buenos aires was added to his possessions, he joined the famous jockey club and became a devotee of sport—following the odds on horses even more closely than he did the price of wheat or cattle. he now visits europe frequently and has added a sort of cosmopolitan veneer to himself, and may possibly have learned to speak two or three languages. thus it is that this hidalgo has added up-to-date and european customs and habits to his inherited traits, of which perhaps the vices have been imbibed fully as generously as the virtues and graces. so also it is that his life passes along in smooth and easy channels, with little to worry him except the problem of amusement and sufficient excitement.

a group of peons

there is no doubt that the argentinian is ambitious. we may laugh at some of his impractical ideas, or the seeming stupidity of some of the more ignorant ones, but the fact remains that each one is endeavouring to get ahead. the porte?o is aiming to make buenos aires the finest city in the world, the state governments vie with each other in prodigality,[193] and the ranchman is trying to develop the very best breeds of stock on his estancia. they want the best modern appliances and luxuries, and even the ladies must have the very latest parisian designed hats and gowns. the workmen join labour organizations and they are as free to strike as in any other country in the world; in every way they are breaking away from the old traditions and trying to enter into the spirit of the modern, be it for good or ill. the same trend is observable whether the person is the descendant of one of the old families, or is one of the recent importations from spain or italy. this modernizing spirit seems to be in the air and is as contagious as the most virulent form of fever or plague. all differences of social station fade away before this one vital force which pervades both camp and city. it is almost as marked as in any part of the united states and cannot be overlooked by the most unobservant traveller.

a general wastefulness characterizes all classes, both urban and rural. in many cases this is probably due to ignorance. the very bountifulness of nature has no doubt accentuated a natural disinclination to attend to detail and small economies. if conservation would[194] be studied much more profit could be realized by all. on the estancias this wastefulness is noted in the methods of taking care of the crops and vast herds of stock. in the city one will see it in the administration of municipal governments in the various departments. in private life one will discern it everywhere, and even the common labourer shows the same traits of improvidence and lack of thriftiness so characteristic of the german or french peasant, for example.

the railroads are wasteful oftentimes and are unprepared to handle the immense crops produced by a bountiful nature, so that thousands of tons of grain have been lost through sheer inability to get them to market, and the estanciero was unable to take care of his grain because he had no elevators or granaries to hold his crop. thousands of cattle have been lost in a dry season because the owner trusted wholly to nature and had no food to keep them from starvation when the pasture failed. but then argentina is not alone in these traits, and it is perhaps easier to find fault or give advice than to do the things ourselves if we were placed in the same position.

like all latin people, the argentinian loves[195] politics. the opera bouffe style of government, which can still be found in central america, has disappeared, so that the melodramatic element no longer exists. with each year the people grow less inclined to indulge in revolution simply as a pastime. the risks of the revolutionists too are greater in a nation of nearly seven million people than formerly, when there were not one-fourth that number, and a country in which prosperity and education have made great strides. furthermore, there is the feeling on the part of the argentinians that their country is on its way to take its place as one of the great nations of the earth, and this idea has undoubtedly sobered them somewhat. there are, no doubt, many, even to-day, who enter politics with no other purpose than to enrich themselves. their methods, however, are far more subtle than the revolutionists of old, and they hedge themselves about with an air of apparent honesty and patriotism that is difficult to penetrate. they have had good examples of genuine patriots in the not distant past, which has no doubt aided in clarifying the political atmosphere. it is in the question of government contracts where the test of honour comes. if the tales[196] that are told are to be believed, then rich pickings often fall to officials. in some cases this has been done openly and yet caused little comment, because such a result seemed to be but natural and expected as a matter of course.

argentina is a country that is purely pastoral and agricultural, for the proportion of those engaged in manufacturing is numerically very small. and yet one city contains nearly one-fifth of the total population. when you include the other cities, such as rosario, tucuman, mendoza, etc., the proportion of city dwellers is still greater. the cities of argentina have outgrown the rest of the country. with people of an excitable nature, such as the latins are, it may bode serious trouble in the future. strikes have become very common, and lawlessness in connection with them is very easy to stir up. just before my visit the chief of police was killed in one of those disturbances. the method of the government in dealing with these exigencies is sensible but drastic. a state of siege and martial law is declared, and every suspicious character is deported as an undesirable. following the killing of the chief of police, several hundred italians and spaniards were deported. it was only after several weeks[197] of martial law that the ban was lifted and life moved along as before. many of the italians are, no doubt, anarchistic in their tendencies, and sometimes it might be wondered that disturbances are not more frequent and more general than they actually are. the police of the city usually show themselves competent to cope with the situation.

notwithstanding the cosmopolitan character of the population, the republic is governed solely by the real argentinians. no foreigner is permitted to sit in congress or take any hand in the legislation of the country. the character of elections has undoubtedly progressed, but they are still far from being perfect or free from criticism. it is very easy to tell beforehand who will be elected by observing the forces and influences behind the various candidates. how it is accomplished might be difficult to explain, but it is done, and the man with the proper support will almost invariably win out in some way. absolute freedom of expression is allowed the individual and press; one may listen to or read political addresses full of flowery eloquence and fire, or hear the most bitter denunciation, with no police interference whatever. the government does not worry itself[198] about such trifles, which are merely abstract questions and do no one harm. the chances are that if the opponents of the government are allowed to work off their pent-up emotions in this way, their opposition on election day will not be very active. hence they always treat the “not-ins” with a sort of good-natured forbearance that would be irritating to a north american.

there are perhaps fifty thousand or more persons in argentina who might be classed as british. it would be difficult to find a community where a few of these anglo-saxons do not dwell. of this number a large proportion are of hibernian extraction. as a rule they may easily be spotted. in buenos aires and rosario this colony remains entirely distinct and mingles very little in social relations with the natives. they are engaged in commerce and the other business enterprises. the britisher is self-satisfied and the argentinian would call him boorish, although he is welcomed, as is any one who will contribute to the development and material progress of the country. in the camp it is sometimes different. there one will find former citizens of the british isles who have almost forgotten their native tongue.[199] their children will speak spanish in preference to english, and they have imbibed many of the characteristics of the spaniards. if this british estanciero speaks english his conversation will be interspersed with spanish phrases. the camp seems to have a fascination for him, and he will prefer the blue and white banner of his adopted land to the british jack. the rich land of argentina, which can produce such abundant crops, has wielded a spell over him. this process of welding and consolidation has, in numerous instances, been at work for several generations.

the englishman is a born sportsman. he loves horseflesh and all games, and has initiated the argentinian into the mysteries of many. football is now played all over the republic by thousands of the darker-hued argentinians, side by side with the fair-haired anglo-saxon. football has to all intents and purposes become the national game of argentina. it is really astonishing what a hold this game has upon the people. the love of sport in the camp has no doubt had an influence in leading to a closer understanding and better feeling between the two races in the rural districts; it has been a good influence and the result has[200] been for the best interest of the nation. if the two races are to live side by side it is well for a good fellowship to exist between them.

the seal of spain is upon everything that she has touched. the spaniard has left his religion, language, and social creed all over the new world south of the rio grande, and his mark can be traced upon face, laws and landscape. wherever he appeared the spaniard has written his racial autograph in a hand that neither time nor political change has sufficed to efface. the anglo-saxon has never succeeded in accomplishing the same results except by colonization. one who is proficient can detect from what part the spanish-american woman comes, for each national face has an individuality. the mexicana, the chilena, the uruguayana and the argentina all differ—and yet there is a kinship that can easily be traced. the olive-brown tint is there, but in different shades. the perfect morena (spanish-moorish) is a rarity, but it is as near perfection as complexion can be—so fine, so soft and so richly warmed. this type can frequently be found in the argentina.

one of argentina’s daughters

outside of buenos aires the old conservatism concerning the position of women still[201] prevails. it must be admitted that there is something attractive about their life. the big roomy windows, and the balconies which jut out over the street on each floor, and the women seem made for each other. the balconies were first designed for the wives and daughters of the spaniards to look out upon the street, since they were not allowed to go out freely. i know of no sight prettier or more enchanting than to see these balconies filled with women and children on the occasion of a carnival or other festive occasion. two, three or four tiers of balconies, one above another, will be crowded with women all in white, and it is a sight upon which to feast the eyes. then a family group in one of the big windows, with the young ladies seated on the window itself, forms a picture that will linger in the memory.

the women of argentina are the antithesis of english or american women in many ways. the masculine type is very rare, for the restrictions and customs rather accentuate the purely feminine traits. in youth they are beautiful and none can help but admire both face and figure. they can express in the flash of an eye what an english girl could not say in a quarter of an hour. in addition to the attractiveness[202] granted her by nature the argentina is an adept at all the arts of the toilet, and is generally familiar with rouge, the pencil and the powder puff; in these she is a connoisseur, and does not hesitate to apply her knowledge. in many the spanish and italian types have been moulded together and the beauty has probably been accentuated. as a rule her carriage is graceful, but her voice—that is the one disappointing quality. the voice is generally rather shrill, and, when excited, very unpleasant. furthermore, they always speak in a monotonous, high-keyed, sing-song manner.

black-haired children of argentina

a lack of exercise and a love of big dinners and wines soon develops a stoutness that does not add to the beauty of the argentine woman. one will seldom see a woman in any city walking if a conveyance can possibly be had, and it is certainly a good thing for the cabbie. it is at a late hour when they arise and they seldom don other than negligée before the middle of the afternoon. in later years they become very stout—one might cruelly say, fleshy. in buenos aires they are beginning to look upon a little more freedom as their birthright. one will see young women on the street or in the street car unaccompanied by the duenna or[203] other companion, which would be unknown in spain. whereas they used to look upon english girls as fast, because of their freedom, now they are longing to adopt the same freedom of action, and it seems to be coming by degrees. the matron becomes very much domesticated and devotes herself unstintingly to her children and their welfare. in this way many of the youngsters are really spoiled. their devotion to their children is, however, to be greatly admired, and a great affection seems to exist for the mother among all her children, both girls and boys.

“i should think that these mothers would get tired of black hair,” said an american woman to me in buenos aires. and then it dawned upon me with full force that all of these latin-american children have black hair. it had not seemed to me as monotonous or tiresome before, for there is an individuality about each face, just as there is about that of children the world over. it is true that the hair of these children is almost uniformly of that hue, but i am very sure that the mothers find their children no less interesting because carmencita, juanita, consuela, maria, juan, josé, santiago, antonio and all their little brothers and[204] sisters have hair of the same shade. these children of latin-america are very numerous, for families are generally larger than they are in the united states. it is nothing unusual to see the mother or both parents get on board a train followed by six or eight children, all of whom are of tender ages.

the spaniard has the reputation of being cruel. he is so to his horse or mule, he can view the cruelties of the bull-fight with enthusiasm, but his voice softens in speaking to a child. in fact the children are often petted and humoured too much, and the affection lavished upon them becomes a passion. and yet these bewitching little people are never unmindful of the simple courtesies of life. they learn the amenities of speech almost from the cradle. ask some little fellow in spanish america his name, and he will probably roll out a long name, such as jesus antonio martinez y alcorta, “at the service of god and yourself.” pass some compliment on little carmencita and see how quickly she will say, “it is a compliment you pay me,” or “mil gracias,” a thousand thanks. offer her some little courtesy and she accepts “con mucho gusto,” with much pleasure, to which you should reply “the[205] pleasure will be mine.” it is hardly safe to admire an ornament of a little mite of only eight or ten years. she will instantly remove it and offer it to you with the expression, “it is at the disposal of your worship.” the proper “disposal” is to refuse the gift in nice polite terms. it is really remarkable, and oftentimes touching, to observe these little courtesies in the ni?as and muchachas. it even extends to their prayers, for here is the spanish form of bed-time prayer:—

“jesus, joseph, mary,

your little servant keep,

while, with your kind permission,

i lay me down to sleep.”

most of these argentine children are rather solemn-faced in the presence of strangers. they are not quite so free to make up with some one unknown to them as the average american child, and it is often rather difficult to coax a smile. one can even casually pinch a little cheek without provoking the smile so free with american children. it is not fear, for they do not seem afraid, but there is a certain shyness which is very noticeable. they will look up at you with their big, black eyes,[206] but the smile which should accompany it is not forthcoming. especially is this true of little girls, who thus early in life seem to realize the narrowness of their lives.

it has always seemed to me sad to contemplate a girl’s life in these latin lands. no sooner has one crossed the rio grande into mexico than the restrictions upon a woman’s freedom become evident, and these same customs extend clear to the “land of fire,” at the southernmost limits of south america. not only are the little girls held in a species of bondage, but in later years they miss that care-free, happy period of american girls in their early “teens,” when every one considers it a privilege and pleasure to contribute to their enjoyment. they are hemmed about by servants and duennas during these years, and they then suddenly emerge into young womanhood, almost before one realizes that they are more than little girls. one year they are ni?as (which means little girls), and a year or two later they are se?oritas, or young ladies. they have almost skipped that delightful age of being “just girls,” which the spaniards term muchachas.

if there is one feature about them that is[207] especially beautiful it is the eyes. large, dark and radiant orbs are almost universal, and especially is that true in childhood. they very early begin the use of powder and paste, and oftentimes of rouge and the black pencil. it is a shame, for youth does not need these artificial aids and the evil effects are seen in the complexions of those of maturer years. this beauty of youth is more evanescent than with american girls, and the girl of even twenty has oftentimes begun to fade, and at thirty she is decidedly matronly in appearance.

love and religion are the only two things that a spanish woman should concern herself about, according to the theory of that land, and the same sentiment permeates even the childish amusements. love and lovers run through all the childish rhymes of the children of spanish-america. but more frequently it is religion. to begin with, their very names all have some religious significance. mary is a very common name, but to it is added one of the attributes of the virgin, such as mary of the sorrows, tears, annunciation, etc. thus smiling little dolores (sorrows), lagrimas (tears) and the other little marys bear these sad names, but their smiles come just as easy[208] as if their names signified joys. saints are appealed to in many of their childish amusements. “jesus” and “mary most pure” are common forms of exclamation for the tiniest of tots, and their conversation is punctuated with these sacred terms in the most innocent way imaginable. they are used just as american tots would say “oh, my,” or “good gracious.”

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