of gentlemen’s wigs (continued)—difference between woven and knotted wigs considered—instructions for making a knotted wig—of the parting and crown—of the crown only—pressing, dressing, etc.—a superior kind of wig described, and making the same—the transparent parting and crown—sundry important details.
o you not think,” said a gentleman to me one day, “that a wig made with weft is rather old-fashioned?” the question can only be answered in the affirmative, because knotted work has very generally superseded it, but, i maintain, for a man to be clever in any trade or profession (and wig-making forms no exception to the rule), he must be acquainted with all the rudimentary parts. to be well grounded in the first principles of an art is, other qualifications being equal, a sure precursor of success. careful instructors are well aware of this, and as a consequence, cause their pupils to undergo much preliminary training before entrusting them with more difficult tasks. the medical and legal professions, painting, sculpture and music, chemistry, photography, and many others might be enumerated to show the amount of technical instruction 196which must, as it were, be drilled into a man before he is sufficiently clever to take a foremost place in his profession. the art of hairdressing furnishes another instance of what i am asserting, and the talented coiffeurs, who give expositions of their skill at the different concours in paris and london, afford examples of untiring energy, and great attention to the most trifling details. the fact is, he who desires to be clever must go plodding, plodding on, regarding nothing as too trivial for him to do, and nothing (within reason) too difficult for him to attempt. weft of one kind or the other will always be in requisition; it is the key-stone of the hair-work trade, affords employment to the less skilful, imparts durability to false hair manufactures, and is contributory to cheapness.
my inquiring friend could have put a similar question to me respecting the metallic spring; but, let me ask, if a customer did not wish it, and it was not considered necessary by the wig-maker, why introduce it at all? the spring can be left out, and other lesser springs substituted, as it is very much a matter of taste or convenience. some persons cannot bear the pressure of a metallic spring, which, perhaps, is attributable more to the spring not fitting the head properly than to the oversensitiveness of the wearer.[26] yet i am under an impression that, for ordinary wear, a wig with a well-fitting metallic spring across the top, or at 197the back of the head (the latter especially) is both secure and comfortable; the wig retains its shape better, and, with weft, is much more durable. in matters of this description a great deal depends upon circumstances, and the arrangements made between buyer and seller. my desire is to give completeness to the work which i have undertaken; to have, as it were, a “word in season” for every emergency; to lead the pupil far on the road towards proficiency, and, having arrived there, he can well be left to look after himself, for he is no longer a learner, but a good boardsman.
to make a knotted wig, i will direct the reader’s attention to figs. 38 and 39, and request him to mount a wig in accordance with the instructions given therewith. he can mount it with, or without, the metallic spring, but in either case, care must be taken to affix springs of the requisite lengths, and in suitable places to keep the angles or points well in position. all the springs must be neatly covered, and put on before the net; in fact, as the wig is to be knotted, all galloon work should be done first, and the net affixed last. silk net is to be used. in sewing, first stitch the net to the edge of the galloon in the usual way, and allow it to overlap the other edge before cutting off. now that portion which overlaps is to be turned under and sewn, of course, to the second edge, and thus all the galloon becomes firmly covered with net. the same applies to the springs and with even greater force to the edges of the 198mount itself; and here it is necessary to be extremely careful, for when the job is completed and comes under the scrutinizing glance of the master, all wefts should be as regular and well-set as plants in a garden. there must not be inequalities, gaps, or other irregularities, all should be neat and trim. in this instance i do not propose inserting either a parting or crown. i rather prefer leaving the student to “try his ’prentice hand” in making them himself, at least, so far as he is able. my last wig was not intended for a clearly defined parting; neither is this one. the mount is now ready for the hair, instructions concerning which have already been given.
the course to be pursued when knotting the hair, is similar to that which was adopted with the weft—the object being the same. i would observe that, instead of turning in the net as before directed, the maker can (if he chooses) sew upon the galloon two or three rows of very fine wig-weft; one or two of them, however, must cover the edge of the net as well. additional firmness being thus secured, the knotting can then be proceeded with. in knotting over or on the galloon and springs, coarser work, if considered desirable, may very well be done, but when it is executed on the net, the knots should be moderately fine and regular. the angles, or points of the wig, are to be well and properly filled in, and of course, all the hair should be drawn in the direction in which it is intended to lie. how close, or how far apart, the 199knots are to be placed is difficult to say. all net is not made alike; some meshes being large while others are small, and, of course, a fixed rule would not apply. besides, all workmen are not painstaking or patient, therefore the knotter must observe closely the aspect of his work, and be the judge. perhaps, with a moderately close mesh, it might be sufficient to knot hair in every other space; if this appears to make it too thick, reduce the number of hairs. this is a tolerably safe rule to follow, and a little practical experience will do the rest. the shorter hair is to be used for the neck and sides, the longer for the top; but in these matters such copious instructions are already given that the student cannot well make a mistake if he reads them attentively. he has merely to substitute “knots” for “weft,” and the whole will apply to the job he has now undertaken.
as to the parting and crown, some of the details which have appeared are applicable here. as a clearly defined parting is not intended, it is merely necessary to implant, or knot the hair closer and finer on the side where the parting should be, than in any other portions of the wig. what division there is should be made with the brush (not with the comb), care being taken that the foundation is well covered with hair, and, of course, concealed from view. the crown is to be done last of all, and, if knotted upon the wig net, the design given for making a woven crown, fig. 40, should be carried out as far as possible. the four 200sections are to be knotted in such a way that the hair of one falls over the other, while the knotting immediately in the centre should be finely and closely arranged.
except it be for practice or an economical customer, i do not expect that such a crown will generally be made, because a silk, skin, net, gauze, or other crown can be obtained from the hair merchant, or patent parting maker, which, of course, imparts a better finish to the wig, and presents a more natural appearance. the illustration, fig. 39, gives a circle adapted for either of the crowns just mentioned, and if a silk or skin one be employed no alteration in this part of the wig is required; but, should a transparent one be inserted, the cross-pieces of galloon must be omitted when mounting, or else cut away afterwards—the reason is obvious. if a transparent crown be inserted, it is optional whether a piece of thin skin (or other light material) be put on first, so as to prevent, to a certain extent, the effect of perspiration, but if a human hair foundation be employed, no such precaution is necessary. whether a protecting substance be used or not, that part of the crown in which hair is implanted should be brought close to the inner edge of the galloon, and the free portion, i.e., that upon which no hair appears, should lie flat on the galloon, to which it must be neatly sewn. should any of the material on which the crown is worked overlap the galloon, of course it must be cut away. the vacant space (which will 201be just the width of the galloon) can then be filled in with weft, unless the net is properly arranged for knotting. but, should a non-transparent parting be employed, the galloon can remain as shown, and the whole be covered with the net used for the wig. in this case the edges of the crown are to be turned in very neatly before it is sewn in position, and, if possible, they ought to be concealed by means of the galloon, the intervening space is either to be filled in with weft, or else the hair can be knotted.
it will thus be seen that various methods of finishing off what might be termed the crowning point of a common wig can very well be adopted.
for pressing, dressing, elastic springs, &c., see remarks which have from time to time been made.
i have given such copious directions for making gentlemen’s wigs, and dwelt at such length upon the various points essential to a good fit and the comfort of the wearer, that, perhaps, but little more need be said upon the subject. my instructions have been chiefly associated with productions that are strong and durable, for it may be accepted as a truth that when a man can execute the commoner work well, only a short time will elapse before he attempts, or is called upon, to do something better. besides, as i have so frequently remarked, my instructions are more intended for learners than for skilled men. these do not stand in need of instruction; indeed, it would be impertinent 202to offer it to them; but with apprentices, improvers, and others whose opportunities for learning are few, the case is widely different. though i have dwelt at some length on the manufacture of gentlemen’s wigs—wigs that will endure a fair amount of every-day wear—yet a few particulars concerning the better-class article will certainly not be out of place, and might prove to be exceedingly useful.
i must, therefore, again direct the reader to observe figs. 38 and 39, and attentively read the instructions with which they are accompanied. having done this, the above illustration is to be studiously regarded, and a marked difference will easily be perceived. the outline, as a matter of course, is to be preserved, and if the student feels so inclined, he can take a tracing and fill in the 203markings shown upon the others. there is no necessity for doing so, except that it impresses the mounting of a wig upon his memory in a more effectual manner. this wig is intended for a transparent parting and crown, the foundation of which may be either human hair, gauze, net, or such material as is generally used for the purpose. before putting on the mount, it is best to provide the parting and crown, as well as the hair to be used for the other parts of the wig. instructions as to length and quantity have already been given. my reason for saying that the parting and crown should be obtained before putting on the mount is, because exactness can be better observed. the edges of the parting work lie on the galloon to which it is sewn; the inner edges of the galloon must come close up to the margin of the implanted hair; “gaps” or vacancies should not be observable, but when the wig is removed from the block and examined, the parting and crown, being surrounded with the galloon, ought to look like a piece of artistic work well set in a frame. of course, a silk or skin parting and crown may be employed instead of a transparent one, but then there is no occasion to leave the opening in front, as shown in the engraving.[27] in that case the galloon can pass round the head, be continued across, and the whole covered with net; this will impart strength to the wig—a transparent effect not being required.
to mount a wig for the transparent parting 204and crown, commence tacking on the galloon at the neck, the free portion lying towards the left hand. proceed, keeping the galloon fairly tight till you reach the lower part of the ear; use more points, and continue till the top of the ear is approached; carefully curve the galloon and make a decided point in front of the ear. then incline the galloon as shown on the temple, and up to where one corner of the parting is intended to be attached. turn the galloon and trace the outline for parting and crown, returning to the angle near the centre of the forehead. incline the galloon sufficiently low (but not lower than is absolutely required) and continue round the other side of the block till the starting-place is reached. cut off, but see that there is at least half-an-inch of free galloon upon each side, which will presently have to be sewn together. you have now the outline galloon upon the block, which, after careful measurements, must be securely basted. (the “points” and basting stitches sufficiently well indicate this.) afterwards, it will be found that the galloon is puckered in various places; pinch some of these together, sew through and through close to the block, and fix so as to obliterate all such indications. the inner galloon or “fillet” is next to be put on. this passes round the back of the head (at the neck) and is fastened upon the galloon at each side of the parting. a piece of galloon is then placed at the back, extending from the crown to the lower part of the neck; 205pieces of galloon being put at the sides, reaching from the top of the ears to the crown. another piece of galloon is attached to the point upon the forehead, and joins the parting galloon in a straight line with the piece at the back. springs are placed as shown in the engraving, or in such other positions as may be required. no metallic spring across the top can be used, and one at the back is best avoided, for with correct measurements, and perhaps one or two elastic springs in the neck, a close-fitting wig may well be assured. a reference to the illustrations will suggest other minor details, and, after all that has been said, the learner will know how to deal with them. the mount having been completed, the springs being neatly covered and placed in position, it now remains to put on the net. given a transparent parting and crown, the other portions of the wig should be knotted. indeed, all the better class of work ought to be so treated, though, in some instances, a little weft may be employed with advantage, especially if strength be required. however, in this instance, i have designed a knotted wig, the openness or closeness of the net being left to your own selection; regard always being paid to the kind of work you are going to do. when this part of the wig is completed the net ought to “fit like a glove,” and wherever there is galloon, the net must be sewn to the edges of the same.
the knotting or insertion of the hair ought to 206be done with neatness and great regularity, and should be continued until nearly the whole of the wig is covered, with the exception of the parting and crown. having dwelt at length on this part of the subject in other places, i cannot do better than ask the student to refer back for more complete details.
with regard to the transparent parting and crown, the reader is invited to look at fig. 41, and he will perceive that the side galloons (on which the edges of the parting and crown are intended to be sewn) are securely held in position by some large stitches placed in a zigzag direction. these stitches can be increased or diminished at pleasure, or taken away altogether if such a step be desired, but i do not recommend it. they are intended to impart additional strength to the zephyr-like parting; to keep it from tearing, and to prevent its widening or stretching, as it most likely will do, unless something effectual be done to stop it. most certainly there ought to be a “stitch” or “stay” within half an inch of the front of the parting, another should be placed where the parting ends and the crown begins, while a third might well be put mid-way between the two. there is a substance specially employed for making these stitches, called “silkworm gut,” which can be obtained at messrs. hovenden & sons’ warehouses, and, as its name implies, is a kind of gut, white in appearance, and impervious to perspiration. the best white silk cord (about the thickness of coarse 207thread) is sometimes preferred; it can be renewed when thought desirable, and is, further, soft to the head. this arrangement, then, being completed, a piece of skin, used for the purpose, can be attached to the side galloons, but is not required when the foundation is made of human hair. the skin should not be allowed to reach the front of the parting, and must be turned upwards and inwards, so as to present a neat and even appearance at the edge when the wig is taken off the block. these preliminaries having been duly attended to, the parting and crown may now be put in position and sewn carefully, so as to avoid any wrinkles or puckering; it must lie flat, be perfectly smooth, and resemble the natural parting of hair as much as possible. herein lies the art of the wig-maker—to imitate nature so skilfully that detection is almost impossible—a feat that is accomplished not unfrequently by some of the most skilful wig-makers of the day.
the larger portion of the mount being now covered with hair, and the parting and crown fixed, it remains for the intervening spaces to be filled in, which having been done the work is ready to be pressed. instructions and remarks on this branch of the subject have already been given.
if possible, it is at all times desirable to try on a wig before giving it up to the wearer, and this remark has special reference to gentlemen’s wigs. elastic springs (in the neck) may or may not be put in before the fitting process takes place, and 208the finishing touches should, if required, be completed upon the head. the hair ought to be well combed and dressed to the face, and anything striking or likely to draw attention to the wearer (so far as the wig is concerned) must be studiously avoided.
