the use of leather rollers in curling hair—papering and pinching hair with the same object in view—plaiting hair (for coiffures)—of razors, razor setting, and razor strops—miscellaneous recipes.
esides the preparation of hair for making it into twists, curls, bandeaux, scalps, wigs, etc., there are many other things to be done with care and attention, and “board-work” will not be complete without some allusion being made to them. for instance, there is the curling of hair with leathern rollers. these rollers are smooth, soft, round, and well adapted to the purpose. they make a nice curl if properly manipulated, do not break the hair, and only the application of a little warmth is necessary. for ringlet hair nothing can be better, no matter whether it be real or false. next to the employment of rollers, is the process of papering and pinching the hair. a dexterous workman experiences no difficulty whatever in rolling up a thin strip of hair (no matter whether it be long or short) with his thumb and finger, and wrapping the usual three-cornered curl paper around it. but a curling-peg is more generally employed. this is a round 221piece of hard wood about six inches long, perfectly smooth, with one end much thinner than the other. the reason is—should the hair be short, or a tight curl required, the small end must be used, but if the hair be long, and a full, round, curl wanted, then the thicker portion has to be employed. the curl is made by rolling it round and round the “peg” (beginning at the points and ending at the roots), and keeping it as flat as possible all the time. then hold the curled portion securely between the thumb and fingers of the left hand, withdraw the “peg,” and place the curl within the three-cornered paper aforesaid, screwing up the ends to make all secure. when this is done, the curl should feel perfectly round within the paper, the centre being equally as well formed but hollow. bear in mind what i have so frequently said before, that all curls should turn to the face. only a medium quantity of hair is to be taken for each curl, and all ought to be about the same size. the curls are next to be “pinched,” and, for this purpose, pinching irons are brought into requisition. if the hair be somewhat new, and of good quality, the less heat that is applied the better, but should it be otherwise much warmth and pressure is necessary. old hairdressers can recollect when the fronts and curls which came to be re-dressed had to be baked (they were so numerous), and how trouble was caused sometimes, through their being “overdone.”
222the papering should be done in regular order, and all quite cold before the papers are removed. for dressing, a little oil (not pomade) should be used, and the curls—if long or short ringlets—formed with the aid of a curl-stick or cold curling irons. true, they can be formed with the fingers, but the other method i consider best. short, round curls, of course must be made with the fingers after a little frizzing, but these operations are difficult to explain in writing—they want practical illustration, which, now that we have societies and schools, is easily obtainable.
concerning the beautiful art of plaiting hair for ladies’ coiffures, the reader is informed that copious instructions are already given in my “lessons in hairdressing,” and to that work he is respectfully referred.
of razors and razor-sharpening much might be said, both as regards the instrument itself, as well as the proper mode of keeping it in order. every hairdresser and barber knows when he is in possession of a good razor, and undoubtedly takes proper care of it. he is to be commended for this, as he simply follows the course adopted by those in other walks in life. whether the old-fashioned description of razor is better or worse than the more modern “hollow-ground” i will not discuss, believing that a great deal depends upon the shaver, the nature of the beard, and the conditions under which the shaving operation is performed. good practice in a barber’s shop is 223the best school in the world for imparting a knowledge of easy shaving; while ordinary intelligence combined with shrewd observation, will go far towards making one a master of his art.
“it appears,” observes a writer[32] on the subject, “that the choice of a razor may quite as well be left to the makers, as determined by the purchaser; however, it sometimes happens, that, exclusive of its goodness, the weight, the poise, &c., of a razor, are circumstances which seem to claim acquaintance with particular hands; and, with regard to these, every one will do well to suit himself.
“i have lately ventured, notwithstanding the long-established notion that weight is a very requisite property in a razor, to recommend those which were deficient in this respect; and i will embrace this opportunity to offer the reasons which influenced my judgment on the subject.
“it does not appear, upon considering by what means a razor acts, that its ponderosity can assist in the operation; the performance depending upon the condition of the edge, abstractedly from its weight; momentum can assist only where force is requisite; thus, in dividing a tough piece of wood, we find that the edge of a knife, however keen, cannot make its way; it becomes necessary, therefore, to use some instrument of more weight, which, being applied by an accelerated action of 224the arm, becomes equal to the task. the weight of all cutting instruments should be adapted according to the nature of their acting; and if the beard required to be hewn, or chopped off, doubtless, a hatchet, with a sharp edge, would answer the purpose better than a razor; on the contrary, if the beard can be erased by an unforced incision, which is certainly the case, an instrument of no considerable weight, with a proper edge, will always deserve the preference; for the hand, having nothing to overcome in point of weight, performs with more exactness and ease, than it possibly can, when feeling the oppression of weight in the instrument it has to manage.”
as regards hollow-ground razors much can be said in their favour, and many in the trade consider them to be the best, but of this each man must judge for himself. i think that much depends on fancy, and what we are accustomed to, as well as to the mode of treatment. sometimes it is requisite to put a long-used razor by for a time so as to restore its edge, and the following observations anent “tired razors” are à propos of the subject:—barbers often assert that razors get “tired” of shaving, and that they will work satisfactorily if permitted to rest for a time. it has been found by microscopic examination that the “tired” razor, from long stropping by the same hand, and in the same direction, has the ultimate fibres of its surface or edge all arranged in one direction, like the edge of a piece of cut 225velvet; but after a month’s rest the fibres rearrange themselves heterogeneously, crossing each other, and presenting a saw-like edge, each fibre supporting its fellow, and hence cutting the beard instead of being forced down flat without cutting.
razor-setting cannot well be taught—it must, (like tuning a violin)—be acquired. some persons are unable to set a razor with any degree of certainty, while others become recognised as clever in that branch of the business. the quality of the hone is an important consideration in razor-setting; it should neither be too hard nor too soft. the razor has to be rubbed from heel to point in the usual way, and always turned on the back. the edge should be tried from time to time upon the thumb or finger-nail, until it feels quite smooth and keen, it is then to be fixed or “set.” this is effected by passing the razor to and fro, as lightly as possible and with single strokes upon the hone. do this for a short time until the edge “bites” the nail as it were, when the setting is completed. should it not do so, the assumption is that the setting has not gone far enough; the other extreme being when the edge is wiry, and then the setting is overdone. in either case the job is not satisfactory, as the razor is “not in tune,” and will quickly require to be set again.
stropping assists greatly in fixing the edge of a razor, and perhaps i cannot do better than quote what mr. savigny says upon the subject:—
“in strapping a razor, it is necessary to observe, 226that the thick or hind part bears upon the leather at the same time the edge does: for if the back is raised, the hand loses its only guide; in which case it could not fail of receiving some injury; but if the razor is applied flat, and the strap a proper one, ten or twelve strokes, on each side the blade, will be sufficient to give the edge its necessary refreshment.
“i have always given directions to draw the razor downwards, from the termination of the edge to the point; having experienced that this is the most steady manner the hand can act in; and it is an observation pretty well established, that any thing may be drawn to a much greater degree of exactness, than it can be shoved; and in the present case, were a razor to be pushed upwards along the strap, that is, from the point to the termination of the edge, there would be some danger of its turning on the rivet, and cutting both the leather and the fingers; to be as secure as possible in this respect, it will be well to place the hold just above the rivet, grasping at the same time the handle, and that part of the blade which issues from it.
“the manner in which a proper strap acts upon a razor must necessarily form an edge most suitable for the purpose, as it neither wears it so fast as the hone, nor confines its effects entirely to a flat; by the gentle manner in which it operates, and being in some measure yielding to pressure, it cannot leave that roughness upon the edge, which 227the hone, on account of its quickness, and the solidity of its surface, is commonly found to produce.”
there cannot be two opinions regarding the importance of a good strop, and its being kept in proper condition, if the edge of a razor is to be considered.
for ordinary use, i give the preference to buff leather mounted upon wood in the old style, but there should always be a layer or two of common leather or other suitable substance between; otherwise there will be a hardness which, to say the least, is not agreeable. softness and pliability should always be aimed at, and, doubtless, this is why many prefer a long piece of buff securely fastened to the wall. in preparing the leather for shop use, after having cleaned and thoroughly dried it, saturate it with olive oil, and then let it be well dressed with suitable razor paste. (if the leather is intended to be affixed to wood, it must be glued on first and time allowed for the glue to harden.)
canvas strops are generally recommended for hollow-ground razors, but they are specially prepared in germany, with the aid of suitable machinery. when unprepared, the canvas is exceedingly hard, and to adapt it for use, it should be filled with soft soap, the ends secured, and boiled for some length of time in a sufficient quantity of water. it is then to be pressed flat, scraped, and well rubbed with a smooth, round instrument until it becomes soft and pliable.
