we came in sight of malta at daybreak on the 28th of september, and about noon dropped our anchor in the marsamuscetta, or quarantine harbour, where all ships under the rank of a frigate must go. this celebrated isle, the master-key of the mediterranean, the link that connects us with egypt and india, was a new scene to me. mostyn and some others on board the urgent had been quartered there before, and while i was surveying the vast strength of its batteries of white sandstone, with those apparently countless cannon, that peer through the deep embrasures, or frown en barbette over the sea; the quaint appearance of those streets of stairs, which byron anathematised; the singular architecture of the houses, so moorish in style and aspect, with heavy, overhanging balconies and flat roofs all connected, so that the dwellers therein can make a common promenade of them; the groups of picturesque, half-nude, and tawny maltese; the monks and clerical students in rusty black cloaks and triangular hats; the greek sailors, in short jackets and baggy blue breeches; the numbers of scarlet uniforms, and those of the chasseurs de vincennes (for two french three-deckers full of the latter had just come in); the naked boys who dived for halfpence in the harbour, and jabbered a dialect that was more arabic than italian--while surveying all this from the poop, through my field-glass, mostyn was pointing out to me the great cathedral of st. john, some of the auberges of the knights, and anticipating the pleasure of a fruit lunch in the strada reale, a drive to monte benjemma, a dinner at morell's, in the strada forni, a cigar on the ramparts, and then dropping into the opera-house, which was built by the grand-master manoel vilhena, and where the best singers from la scala may be heard in the season; and price of ours was already soft and poetical in the ideas of faldettas of lace, black eyes, short skirts, and taper ankles, and anticipating or suggesting various soft things. while the soldiers clustered in the waist, as thick as bees, the officers were all busy with their lorgnettes on the poop, or in preparation for a run ashore, when the bells of valetta began to ring a merry peal, the ships in the harbour to show all their colours, and a gun flashed redly from the massive granite ramparts of st. elmo, a place of enormous strength, having in its lower bastions a sunk barrack, capable of holding two thousand infantry.
"another gun!" exclaimed little tom clavell, as a second cannon sent its peal over the flat roofs, and another; "a salute, by jove! what is up--is this an anniversary?"
it was no anniversary, however, and on the troopship coming to anchor in the crowded and busy harbour, and the quarantine boat coming on board, we soon learned what was "up;" the news spread like lightning through the vessel, from lip to lip and ear to ear; the hum grew into a roar, and ended in the soldiers and sailors giving three hearty cheers, to which many responded from other ships, and from the shore; while the bands of the chasseurs de vincennes, on board the three-deckers, struck up the "marseillaise."
news had just come in that four days ago a battle had been fought by lord raglan and marshal st. arnaud at a place called the alma in crim tartary; that the allied troops after terrible slaughter were victorious, and the russians were in full retreat. that evening a few of us dined at the mess of the buffs, a battalion of which was quartered in the castle of st. elmo. the officers occupied one of the knights' palaces--the auberge de bavière--near that bastion where the scottish hero of alexandria is lying in the grave that so becomes his fate and character. this auberge is a handsome building overlooking the blue sea, which almost washes its walls; and there we heard the first hasty details of that glorious battle, the story of which filled our hearts with regret and envy that we had not borne a share in it, and which formed a source of terrible anxiety to the poor wives of many officers who had left them behind at malta, and who could only see the fatal lists after their transmission to london. we heard the brief story of that tremendous uphill charge made by the light division--the welsh fusileers, the 19th, 33rd, 88th, and other regiments--supported by the guards and highlanders; that the 33rd alone had nineteen reliefs shot under their two colours, which were perforated by sixty-five bullet-holes. we heard how colonel chesters of ours, and eight of his officers, fell dead at the same moment, and that charley gwynne, phil caradoc, and many more were wounded.
"on, on, my gallant 23rd!" were the last words of chesters, as he fell from his horse.
we heard how two of our boy ensigns, buller and little anstruther of balcaskie, were shot dead with the colours in their hands; how connelly, wynne, young radcliffe, and many more, all fell sword in hand; how the regiment had fought like tigers, and that sir george brown, after his horse was shot under him, led them on foot, with his hat in his hand, crying, "hurrah for the royal welsh! come on, my boys!"
and on they went, till private evans planted the red dragon on the great redoubt, where nine hundred men were lying dead. the heights were taken by a rush, and the first gun captured from the russians was by major bell of ours, who brought it out of the field. a passionate glow of triumph and exultation filled my heart; i felt proud of our army, but of my regiment in particular, for the brave fellows of the buffs were loud in their commendations of the 23rd; proud that i wore the same uniform and the same badges in which so many had perished with honour. none but a soldier, perhaps, can feel or understand all this, or that esprit de corps already referred to, and which sums up love of country, kindred, pride of self and profession, in one. but anon came the chilling and mortifying thought that i enjoyed only reflected honours. why was i now seated amid the splendour and luxury of a mess in the auberge de bavière? why was i not yonder, where so many had won glory or a grave? how provoking was the chance, the mere chain of military contingencies, by which i had lost all participation in that great battle, the first fought in europe since waterloo--this alma, that was now in all men's mouths, and in the heart of many a wife and mother, fought and won while we had been sailing on the sea, and while the unconscious folks at home throughout the british isles were going about their peaceful avocations; when thousands of men and women, parents and wives, whose tenderest thoughts were with our gallant little host, were ignorant that those they loved best on earth perhaps were already cold, mutilated, and buried in hasty graves beneath its surface, in a place before unheard of, or by them unknown.
so great was the slaughter in my own regiment, that though i was only a lieutenant, there seemed to be every prospect of my winning ere long the huge spurs won by toby purcell at the boyne water; but my turn of sharp service was coming; for, though i could not foresee it all then, inkermann was yet to be fought, the quarries to be contested, the mamelon and redan to be stormed, and sebastopol itself had yet to fall. had i shared in that battle by the alma, i might have perished, and been lost to estelle for ever; leaving her, perhaps, to be wooed and won by another, when i was dead and forgotten like the last year's snow. this reflection cooled my ardour a little; for love made me selfish, or disposed to be more economical of my person, after my enthusiasm and the fumes of the buffs' champagne passed away; and now from malta i wrote the first letter i had ever addressed to her, full of what the reader may imagine, and sent with it a suite of those delicate and beautiful gold filigree ornaments, for the manufacture of which the maltese jewellers are so famed; and when i sealed my packet at the clarendon in the strada san paola, i sighed while reflecting that i could receive no answer to it, with assurances of her love and sorrow, until after i had been face to face with those same muscovites whom my comrades had hurled from the heights of the alma.
three days after this intelligence arrived we quitted malta, and had a fair and rapid run for the dardanelles. the first morning found us, with many a consort full of troops, skirting, under easy sail, the barren-looking isle of cerigo--of old, the fabled abode of the goddess of love, now the botany bay of the ionians; its picturesque old town and fort encircled by a chain of bare, brown, and rugged mountains, whose peaks the rising sun was tipping with fire. as if to remind us that we were near the land of minerva, and of the curious ascalaphus,
"begat in stygian shades
on orphnè, famed among avernal maids,"
many little dusky owls perched on the yards and booms, where they permitted themselves to be caught. ere long the isthmus of corinth came in sight--that long tract of rock connecting the bleak-looking morea with the grecian continent, and uniting two chains of lofty mountains, the classical names of which recalled the days of our school-boy tasks; thence on to candia, the hills of which rose so pale and white from the deep indigo blue of the sea, that they seemed as if sheeted with the snow of an early winter; but when we drew nearer the shore, the land-wind wafted towards us the aromatic odour that arises from the rank luxuriance of the vast quantity of flowers and shrubs which there grow wild, and form food for the wild goats and hares.
every hour produced some new, or rather ancient, object of interest as we ploughed the classic waters of the ?gean sea, and no man among us, who had read and knew the past glories, traditions, and poetry of the shores we looked on, could hear uttered without deep interest the names of those isles and bays--that on yonder plain, as we skirted the mainland of asia, stood the troy of priam; that yonder hill towering in the background, a purple cone against a golden sky, was mount ida capped with snow, scamander flowing at its foot; ida, where paris, the princely shepherd, adjudged the prize of beauty to venus, and whence the assembled gods beheld the trojan strife; for every rock and peak we looked on was full of the memories of ancient days, and of that "bright land of battle and of song," which byron loved with all a poet's enthusiasm. dusk was closing as we entered the hellespont; the castles of europe and asia were, however, distinctly visible, and we could see the red lights that shone in the turkish fort, and the windmills whirling on the sigean promontory, as we glided, with squared yards, before a fair and steady breeze, into those famous straits which mohammed iv. fortified to secure his city and fleets against the fiery energy of the venetians; and now, as i do not mean "to talk guide-book," our next chapter will find us in the land of strife and toil, of battle and the pest; in that crim tartary which, to so many among us, was to prove the land of death and doom.
