land and sea in sandag bay.

i was early afoot next morning; and as soon as i had a bite to eat, set forth upon a tour of exploration. something in my heart distinctly told me that i should find the ship of the armada; and although i did not give way entirely to such hopeful thoughts, i was still very light in spirits and walked upon air. aros is a very rough islet, its surface strewn with great rocks and shaggy with fernland heather; and my way lay almost north and south across the highest knoll; and though the whole distance was inside of two miles it took more time and exertion than four upon a level road. upon the summit, i paused. although not very high — not three hundred feet, as i think — it yet outtops all the neighbouring lowlands of the ross, and commands a great view of sea and islands. the sun, which had been up some time, was already hot upon my neck; the air was listless and thundery, although purely clear; away over the north-west, where the isles lie thickliest congregated, some half-a-dozen small and ragged clouds hung together in a covey; and the head of ben kyaw wore, not merely a few streamers, but a solid hood of vapour. there was a threat in the weather. the sea, it is true, was smooth like glass: even the roost was but a seam on that wide mirror, and the merry men no more than caps of foam; but to my eye and ear, so long familiar with these places, the sea also seemed to lie uneasily; a sound of it, like a long sigh, mounted to me where i stood; and, quiet as it was, the roost itself appeared to be revolving mischief. for i ought to say that all we dwellers in these parts attributed, if not prescience, at least a quality of warning, to that strange and dangerous creature of the tides.

i hurried on, then, with the greater speed, and had soon descended the slope of aros to the part that we call sandag bay. it is a pretty large piece of water compared with the size of the isle; well sheltered from all but the prevailing wind; sandy and shoal and bounded by low sand-hills to the west, but to the eastward lying several fathoms deep along a ledge of rocks. it is upon that side that, at a certain time each flood, the current mentioned by my uncle sets so strong into the bay; a little later, when the roost begins to work higher, an undertow runs still more strongly in the reverse direction; and it is the action of this last, as i suppose, that has scoured that part so deep. nothing is to be seen out of sandag bay, but one small segment of the horizon and, in heavy weather, the breakers flying high over a deep sea reef.

from half-way down the hill, i had perceived the wreck of february last, a brig of considerable tonnage, lying, with her back broken, high and dry on the east corner of the sands; and i was making directly towards it, and already almost on the margin of the turf, when my eyes were suddenly arrested by a spot, cleared of fern and heather, and marked by one of those long, low, and almost human-looking mounds that we see so commonly in graveyards. i stopped like a man shot. nothing had been said to me of any dead man or interment on the island; rorie, mary, and my uncle had all equally held their peace; of her at least, i was certain that she must be ignorant; and yet here, before my eyes, was proof indubitable of the fact. here was a grave; and i had to ask myself, with a chill, what manner of man lay there in his last sleep, awaiting the signal of the lord in that solitary, sea-beat resting-place? my mind supplied no answer but what i feared to entertain. shipwrecked, at least, he must have been; perhaps, like the old armada mariners, from some far and rich land over-sea; or perhaps one of my own race, perishing within eyesight of the smoke of home. i stood awhile uncovered by his side, and i could have desired that it had lain in our religion to put up some prayer for that unhappy stranger, or, in the old classic way, outwardly to honour his misfortune. i knew, although his bones lay there, a part of aros, till the trumpet sounded, his imperishable soul was forth and far away, among the raptures of the everlasting sabbath or the pangs of hell; and yet my mind misgave me even with a fear, that perhaps he was near me where i stood, guarding his sepulchre, and lingering on the scene of his unhappy fate.

certainly it was with a spirit somewhat over-shadowed that i turned away from the grave to the hardly less melancholy spectacle of the wreck. her stem was above the first arc of the flood; she was broken in two a little abaft the foremast — though indeed she had none, both masts having broken short in her disaster; and as the pitch of the beach was very sharp and sudden, and the bows lay many feet below the stern, the fracture gaped widely open, and you could see right through her poor hull upon the farther side. her name was much defaced, and i could not make out clearly whether she was called christiania, after the norwegian city, or christiana, after the good woman, christian’s wife, in that old book the ‘pilgrim’s progress.’ by her build she was a foreign ship, but i was not certain of her nationality. she had been painted green, but the colour was faded and weathered, and the paint peeling off in strips. the wreck of the mainmast lay alongside, half buried in sand. she was a forlorn sight, indeed, and i could not look without emotion at the bits of rope that still hung about her, so often handled of yore by shouting seamen; or the little scuttle where they had passed up and down to their affairs; or that poor noseless angel of a figure-head that had dipped into so many running billows.

i do not know whether it came most from the ship or from the grave, but i fell into some melancholy scruples, as i stood there, leaning with one hand against the battered timbers. the homelessness of men and even of inanimate vessels, cast away upon strange shores, came strongly in upon my mind. to make a profit of such pitiful misadventures seemed an unmanly and a sordid act; and i began to think of my then quest as of something sacrilegious in its nature. but when i remembered mary, i took heart again. my uncle would never consent to an imprudent marriage, nor would she, as i was persuaded, wed without his full approval. it behoved me, then, to be up and doing for my wife; and i thought with a laugh how long it was since that great sea-castle, the espirito santo, had left her bones in sandag bay, and how weak it would be to consider rights so long extinguished and misfortunes so long forgotten in the process of time.

i had my theory of where to seek for her remains. the set of the current and the soundings both pointed to the east side of the bay under the ledge of rocks. if she had been lost in sandag bay, and if, after these centuries, any portion of her held together, it was there that i should find it. the water deepens, as i have said, with great rapidity, and even close along-side the rocks several fathoms may be found. as i walked upon the edge i could see far and wide over the sandy bottom of the bay; the sun shone clear and green and steady in the deeps; the bay seemed rather like a great transparent crystal, as one sees them in a lapidary’s shop; there was naught to show that it was water but an internal trembling, a hovering within of sun-glints and netted shadows, and now and then a faint lap and a dying bubble round the edge. the shadows of the rocks lay out for some distance at their feet, so that my own shadow, moving, pausing, and stooping on the top of that, reached sometimes half across the bay. it was above all in this belt of shadows that i hunted for the espirito santo; since it was there the undertow ran strongest, whether in or out. cool as the whole water seemed this broiling day, it looked, in that part, yet cooler, and had a mysterious invitation for the eyes. peer as i pleased, however, i could see nothing but a few fishes or a bush of sea-tangle, and here and there a lump of rock that had fallen from above and now lay separate on the sandy floor. twice did i pass from one end to the other of the rocks, and in the whole distance i could see nothing of the wreck, nor any place but one where it was possible for it to be. this was a large terrace in five fathoms of water, raised off the surface of the sand to a considerable height, and looking from above like a mere outgrowth of the rocks on which i walked. it was one mass of great sea-tangles like a grove, which prevented me judging of its nature, but in shape and size it bore some likeness to a vessel’s hull. at least it was my best chance. if the espirito santo lay not there under the tangles, it lay nowhere at all in sandag bay; and i prepared to put the question to the proof, once and for all, and either go back to aros a rich man or cured for ever of my dreams of wealth.

i stripped to the skin, and stood on the extreme margin with my hands clasped, irresolute. the bay at that time was utterly quiet; there was no sound but from a school of porpoises somewhere out of sight behind the point; yet a certain fear withheld me on the threshold of my venture. sad sea-feelings, scraps of my uncle’s superstitions, thoughts of the dead, of the grave, of the old broken ships, drifted through my mind. but the strong sun upon my shoulders warmed me to the heart, and i stooped forward and plunged into the sea.

it was all that i could do to catch a trail of the sea-tangle that grew so thickly on the terrace; but once so far anchored i secured myself by grasping a whole armful of these thick and slimy stalks, and, planting my feet against the edge, i looked around me. on all sides the clear sand stretched forth unbroken; it came to the foot of the rocks, scoured into the likeness of an alley in a garden by the action of the tides; and before me, for as far as i could see, nothing was visible but the same many-folded sand upon the sun-bright bottom of the bay. yet the terrace to which i was then holding was as thick with strong sea-growths as a tuft of heather, and the cliff from which it bulged hung draped below the water-line with brown lianas. in this complexity of forms, all swaying together in the current, things were hard to be distinguished; and i was still uncertain whether my feet were pressed upon the natural rock or upon the timbers of the armada treasure-ship, when the whole tuft of tangle came away in my hand, and in an instant i was on the surface, and the shores of the bay and the bright water swam before my eyes in a glory of crimson.

i clambered back upon the rocks, and threw the plant of tangle at my feet. something at the same moment rang sharply, like a falling coin. i stooped, and there, sure enough, crusted with the red rust, there lay an iron shoe-buckle. the sight of this poor human relic thrilled me to the heart, but not with hope nor fear, only with a desolate melancholy. i held it in my hand, and the thought of its owner appeared before me like the presence of an actual man. his weather-beaten face, his sailor’s hands, his sea-voice hoarse with singing at the capstan, the very foot that had once worn that buckle and trod so much along the swerving decks — the whole human fact of him, as a creature like myself, with hair and blood and seeing eyes, haunted me in that sunny, solitary place, not like a spectre, but like some friend whom i had basely injured. was the great treasure ship indeed below there, with her guns and chain and treasure, as she had sailed from spain; her decks a garden for the seaweed, her cabin a breeding place for fish, soundless but for the dredging water, motionless but for the waving of the tangle upon her battlements — that old, populous, sea-riding castle, now a reef in sandag bay? or, as i thought it likelier, was this a waif from the disaster of the foreign brig — was this shoe-buckle bought but the other day and worn by a man of my own period in the world’s history, hearing the same news from day to day, thinking the same thoughts, praying, perhaps, in the same temple with myself? however it was, i was assailed with dreary thoughts; my uncle’s words, ‘the dead are down there,’ echoed in my ears; and though i determined to dive once more, it was with a strong repugnance that i stepped forward to the margin of the rocks.

a great change passed at that moment over the appearance of the bay. it was no more that clear, visible interior, like a house roofed with glass, where the green, submarine sunshine slept so stilly. a breeze, i suppose, had flawed the surface, and a sort of trouble and blackness filled its bosom, where flashes of light and clouds of shadow tossed confusedly together. even the terrace below obscurely rocked and quivered. it seemed a graver thing to venture on this place of ambushes; and when i leaped into the sea the second time it was with a quaking in my soul.

i secured myself as at first, and groped among the waving tangle. all that met my touch was cold and soft and gluey. the thicket was alive with crabs and lobsters, trundling to and fro lopsidedly, and i had to harden my heart against the horror of their carrion neighbourhood. on all sides i could feel the grain and the clefts of hard, living stone; no planks, no iron, not a sign of any wreck; the espirito santo was not there. i remember i had almost a sense of relief in my disappointment, and i was about ready to leave go, when something happened that sent me to the surface with my heart in my mouth. i had already stayed somewhat late over my explorations; the current was freshening with the change of the tide, and sandag bay was no longer a safe place for a single swimmer. well, just at the last moment there came a sudden flush of current, dredging through the tangles like a wave. i lost one hold, was flung sprawling on my side, and, instinctively grasping for a fresh support, my fingers closed on something hard and cold. i think i knew at that moment what it was. at least i instantly left hold of the tangle, leaped for the surface, and clambered out next moment on the friendly rocks with the bone of a man’s leg in my grasp.

mankind is a material creature, slow to think and dull to perceive connections. the grave, the wreck of the brig, and the rusty shoe-buckle were surely plain advertisements. a child might have read their dismal story, and yet it was not until i touched that actual piece of mankind that the full horror of the charnel ocean burst upon my spirit. i laid the bone beside the buckle, picked up my clothes, and ran as i was along the rocks towards the human shore. i could not be far enough from the spot; no fortune was vast enough to tempt me back again. the bones of the drowned dead should henceforth roll undisturbed by me, whether on tangle or minted gold. but as soon as i trod the good earth again, and had covered my nakedness against the sun, i knelt down over against the ruins of the brig, and out of the fulness of my heart prayed long and passionately for all poor souls upon the sea. a generous prayer is never presented in vain; the petition may be refused, but the petitioner is always, i believe, rewarded by some gracious visitation. the horror, at least, was lifted from my mind; i could look with calm of spirit on that great bright creature, god’s ocean; and as i set off homeward up the rough sides of aros, nothing remained of my concern beyond a deep determination to meddle no more with the spoils of wrecked vessels or the treasures of the dead.

i was already some way up the hill before i paused to breathe and look behind me. the sight that met my eyes was doubly strange.

for, first, the storm that i had foreseen was now advancing with almost tropical rapidity. the whole surface of the sea had been dulled from its conspicuous brightness to an ugly hue of corrugated lead; already in the distance the white waves, the ‘skipper’s daughters,’ had begun to flee before a breeze that was still insensible on aros; and already along the curve of sandag bay there was a splashing run of sea that i could hear from where i stood. the change upon the sky was even more remarkable. there had begun to arise out of the south-west a huge and solid continent of scowling cloud; here and there, through rents in its contexture, the sun still poured a sheaf of spreading rays; and here and there, from all its edges, vast inky streamers lay forth along the yet unclouded sky. the menace was express and imminent. even as i gazed, the sun was blotted out. at any moment the tempest might fall upon aros in its might.

the suddenness of this change of weather so fixed my eyes on heaven that it was some seconds before they alighted on the bay, mapped out below my feet, and robbed a moment later of the sun. the knoll which i had just surmounted overflanked a little amphitheatre of lower hillocks sloping towards the sea, and beyond that the yellow arc of beach and the whole extent of sandag bay. it was a scene on which i had often looked down, but where i had never before beheld a human figure. i had but just turned my back upon it and left it empty, and my wonder may be fancied when i saw a boat and several men in that deserted spot. the boat was lying by the rocks. a pair of fellows, bareheaded, with their sleeves rolled up, and one with a boathook, kept her with difficulty to her moorings for the current was growing brisker every moment. a little way off upon the ledge two men in black clothes, whom i judged to be superior in rank, laid their heads together over some task which at first i did not understand, but a second after i had made it out — they were taking bearings with the compass; and just then i saw one of them unroll a sheet of paper and lay his finger down, as though identifying features in a map. meanwhile a third was walking to and fro, polling among the rocks and peering over the edge into the water. while i was still watching them with the stupefaction of surprise, my mind hardly yet able to work on what my eyes reported, this third person suddenly stooped and summoned his companions with a cry so loud that it reached my ears upon the hill. the others ran to him, even dropping the compass in their hurry, and i could see the bone and the shoe-buckle going from hand to hand, causing the most unusual gesticulations of surprise and interest. just then i could hear the seamen crying from the boat, and saw them point westward to that cloud continent which was ever the more rapidly unfurling its blackness over heaven. the others seemed to consult; but the danger was too pressing to be braved, and they bundled into the boat carrying my relies with them, and set forth out of the bay with all speed of oars.

i made no more ado about the matter, but turned and ran for the house. whoever these men were, it was fit my uncle should be instantly informed. it was not then altogether too late in the day for a descent of the jacobites; and may be prince charlie, whom i knew my uncle to detest, was one of the three superiors whom i had seen upon the rock. yet as i ran, leaping from rock to rock, and turned the matter loosely in my mind, this theory grew ever the longer the less welcome to my reason. the compass, the map, the interest awakened by the buckle, and the conduct of that one among the strangers who had looked so often below him in the water, all seemed to point to a different explanation of their presence on that outlying, obscure islet of the western sea. the madrid historian, the search instituted by dr. robertson, the bearded stranger with the rings, my own fruitless search that very morning in the deep water of sandag bay, ran together, piece by piece, in my memory, and i made sure that these strangers must be spaniards in quest of ancient treasure and the lost ship of the armada. but the people living in outlying islands, such as aros, are answerable for their own security; there is none near by to protect or even to help them; and the presence in such a spot of a crew of foreign adventurers — poor, greedy, and most likely lawless — filled me with apprehensions for my uncle’s money, and even for the safety of his daughter. i was still wondering how we were to get rid of them when i came, all breathless, to the top of aros. the whole world was shadowed over; only in the extreme east, on a hill of the mainland, one last gleam of sunshine lingered like a jewel; rain had begun to fall, not heavily, but in great drops; the sea was rising with each moment, and already a band of white encircled aros and the nearer coasts of grisapol. the boat was still pulling seaward, but i now became aware of what had been hidden from me lower down — a large, heavily sparred, handsome schooner, lying to at the south end of aros. since i had not seen her in the morning when i had looked around so closely at the signs of the weather, and upon these lone waters where a sail was rarely visible, it was clear she must have lain last night behind the uninhabited eilean gour, and this proved conclusively that she was manned by strangers to our coast, for that anchorage, though good enough to look at, is little better than a trap for ships. with such ignorant sailors upon so wild a coast, the coming gale was not unlikely to bring death upon its wings.