termination of the fast of lent.
immediately upon our return from the eastern frontier, the king sent his confidential page with a message of congratulation on my recent success against the much-dreaded buffalo, and requested that we would visit him early the ensuing morning. in accordance with the etiquette invariably observed after a long absence, i laid “pleasing things” on the royal footstool, together with the trophies of the chase, and his majesty listened with great interest to a detail of our adventures among his adel subjects. on my returning thanks for the injunctions issued to the governor of berhut and his subordinates, as well as for the royal permission to visit a portion of the realm hitherto unviewed by europeans, the most friendly assurances were repeated, that “he could not suffer his children to depart until they should have viewed the entire of his dominions.”
during this interview. his majesty remained seated on a hassock before the fire, and had laid aside every portion of his usual reserve. akodámas, or silver coronets, with chain pendants, of the model worn by himself on occasions of triumph, and conferred as the last honour upon those who distinguish themselves in war or in the chase, were now presented to us, together with massive silver bracelets, accompanied by many complimentary speeches upon the issue of the expedition:—“you have slain elephants and buffaloes, and are powerful in arms against the wild beasts of which my people are afraid,” concluded the despot. “you have overwhelmed me with rifles and other delightful inventions from the countries beyond the great sea, and must receive at my hands those things which my kingdom produces, in order that they may be worn on all proper occasions. you are my brothers.”
striped cotton robes of abyssinian manufacture followed; and three horses with plated silver bridles were subsequently presented, which, although like other royal gifts in shoa, of ridiculously inferior quality, were valuable as tokens of favour that are lavished upon those alone who enjoy the most exalted place in his majesty’s estimation. they did not fail to produce the desired effect upon popular opinion; and sycophants who had before taxed us with an intention to seize the throne—to extinguish the race of solomon, and to bring a curse upon the land by the atrocious process of burning the royal bread—now found it convenient to alter their sentiments, and to confer upon the foreign guests the ennobling, but not very enviable, appellation of “the king’s brothers.”
the tedious fast of hodádi, which for forty days had been observed in commemoration of lent by every individual of the population whose age exceeded thirteen years, was now about to terminate. during the three days which are termed kenóna, the priests had neither eaten bread nor drunk water, but had remained in the churches singing and praying incessantly both day and night. in accordance with the practice of the primitive church, the monarch observed total abstinence throughout this period, and on good friday sent me a message, “that his people would eat nothing for forty hours, but that as he knew the gypts did not keep strong fasts, he had commanded the purveyor-general to send to the residency the usual daily supplies of bread, beer, and hydromel.”
on easter even we were invited to the palace to witness their celebration of the royal victories, held according to immemorial custom during passion week. sáhela selássie was clad in the plainest of garments, and appeared much enfeebled and emaciated by rigorous mortification, but was in high spirits at the prospect of speedy release from the irksome penance. on this joyful occasion offerings are invariably made to the throne; and every individual of the crowd present, whether great or small, advancing in turn, contributed a mite according to his means—the wealthier bringing cotton cloths, and the more indigent, logs of wood, earthen jars, or stones of a description fitted for building.
bands of warriors next entered the carpeted courtyard, howling the war-chorus; and after the lapse of a few seconds, the gigantic tunkaiye, who had earned new laurels, and been severely wounded during a recent foray against the gentiles, dashed into the arena on horseback. richly attired, bedizened with feathers, sarétis, and silver decorations, and escorted by a troop of fifty mounted retainers, he galloped up and down, recounting his valorous exploits, and pointing to the scars earned in the service of his royal master, shouted defiance to the enemies of the state.
eighty turbaned priests, in solemn procession, next entered the court, clad in their sacerdotal vestments. preceded by the great embroidered umbrellas of the church dedicated to saint george, they filed slowly into the space vacated by the warriors, the holy ark being supported by antique egyptian figures, robed in long musty-looking habiliments of chequered hues, crowned with heavy mitres, and bearing in their hands rods of green rushes, bronze bells, crosses, and censers of burning incense, with an image of the madonna, and a crucifix; for whilst hating the papists with all their hearts, the abyssinians nevertheless cherish many of the superstitions and buffooneries of the church of rome.
having formed a semicircle before the throne, the priests, although much exhausted by their long abstinence, continued, during half an hour, to dance and chant the words of the apostle paul in his epistle to the romans, “christ was delivered for our offences, and raised again for our justification.” a portion of the dominical orison followed. their united harsh voices were accompanied by the music of tambourines and kettle-drums, thumped with excessive violence, and by the jingle of the tsnasin, the abyssinian timbrel. this is the sistrum, an instrument supposed to be included under the hebrew term tzitzelem, and being composed of a frame and moveable bars of sonorous metal, it produces sounds which can best be compared to the rattle of the poker upon the tongs.
seven long years are passed in learning to play these instruments, which are ascribed to saint yareed, an abuna under the emperor guebra máskal, (i.e. “servant of the cross”) and the reputed inventor of church music in all its various branches. the constant practice of many hours during each day might not unreasonably be expected to lead to greater perfection than is displayed. from four in the morning until nine, in every church in the kingdom, a similar clatter and noise is maintained, for the honour of the christian religion, not only on the sabbath, but on all the numerous holydays and festivals throughout the twelve months. howling and screaming are the most appropriate terms by which to express the hoarse muster of cracked and ill-modulated voices; and the band of stout priests who, by their song, nightly preserve the royal person from the influence of evil demons, must be acknowledged to have selected a right cunning stratagem by which to deter the approach of those spirits, at least, that are gifted with any musical taste.
the rehearsal of the praises and martial achievements of the reigning sovereign occupied another half hour, during which the dancing was even more energetic, and the music more boisterous than ever. taking their seats before the throne, the priests of saint george, fairly worn out by their exertions, at length made way for those of “our lady,” who, after the enaction of similar absurdities, were followed in succession by those of medhanálem, aferbeine, and saint michael, the latter distinguished by the massive embossed silver umbrella. as the united body rent the air with renewed encomiums on the royal prowess in arms, dictated to them line by line by one of the alakas, his majesty enquired of me whether similar ceremonies were performed before the sovereigns of egypt during the holy institution of lent?—whether the coptic priesthood there were not less elegantly habited than the abyssinian dignitaries present?—and whether the ethiopic fasts were observed in saint thomas’s town, as india is invariably styled by the abyssinians, or in any other part of the christian world?
the edifying conversation was, however, suddenly interrupted by the cessation of the priestly voices. rising and standing on the throne, the monarch now received in succession, at the hands of the dwarf father confessor, the carved croziers of brass or silver, belonging to the numerous functionaries of the five churches, many hundreds in number; and with exemplary devoutness, he raised all in turn to his lips. with each sacred symbol of the season, was handed a rod of green rushes, and every person present followed the royal example, by wreathing a fillet about his brows, to be worn during the residue of the day. largesses, with new silver crosses, were then presented to the several alakas, who were invested with striped cotton robes, and charged with alms for distribution to the poor.
during this tedious process, whereof the king seemed no less heartily weary than ourselves, tekla mariam, the state scrivener, had been carefully extracting, from an endless succession of envelopes and dirty cotton bags and wrappers, something which he appeared equally desirous to conceal and to disclose. drawing me mysteriously into a dark corner, he partially revealed a rudely carved block of wood, presenting nothing very remarkable in its appearance, but evidently much-prized by the possessor. “you will have perceived,” whispered the learned man, in a scarcely audible voice—“you will doubtless have perceived that this is a fac-simile of the table of the law delivered to moses on the mount. it requires nothing but the ten commandments; and of these i have no question that you will be able to furnish me with a copy in the unknown tongue.”
oxen, assembled for consumption in the city on the termination of the great fast, completely choked the road down from the palace. of five hundred head brought together with this munificent design, there was not one that appeared to possess another hour of natural existence, all being diseased, and so horribly emaciated as to recall vividly to mind the aged pensioners of a hindoo cattle asylum in the east. many had actually died since their arrival within the enclosure, and it appeared wonderful whence so many sickening objects had been collected. yet the liberality of the monarch was vaunted and extolled by all who were to share it; and it was unanimously declared that the fault rested solely with the public officers who had been entrusted with the royal commands.
his majesty, who, during passion week, had been very regular in his vigils and attendance at divine service, passed the greater part of the night in saint michael’s church, and on the first crowing of the cock on easter morning, broke his long fast. the feasting now became general. the five hundred oxen having been slaughtered, were devoured raw in the various quarters of the city; and whether in eating or in drinking, every inhabitant appeared exerting himself to the utmost to make up as expeditiously as possible for the weary restraint that had been imposed on his appetite. numbers were soon to be seen ranging the streets in brutal intoxication; whilst the court buffoon, at the head of a party of drunken fiddlers, made his way to the dwelling of every person of note, and recited his praises in a series of extemporaneous couplets.
according to immemorial custom, two state-prisoners were liberated from góncho, on the occasion of these festivities; the royal clemency not however extending to any of the hapless and unoffending members of the blood-royal, who have shared the dungeon from infancy. during one week a public table is kept by the viceroy, to which the town’s people of every grade resorting, drunken brawls and broken heads are diurnal occurrences. oxen, bread, and beer, were liberally supplied, by the royal command, to the long train of worthless menials at the residency; and in such high good humour were the priesthood, that, forgetting all their former maledictions and denunciations, they were pleased to ascribe a recent heavy fall of rain, which had proved highly beneficial to the husbandman, solely to the agency of “the king’s strong strangers.”
