all things being ready, the greely expedition left st. john’s, newfoundland, for lady franklin bay, on thursday, july 7, 1881, in the steamer proteus, captain pike. she was a barkentine, measuring two hundred and fifty feet in length, and having a burden of six hundred tons. built in scotland for the whaling and sealing service, she had already made several successful voyages within the arctic circle and on the labrador coast. the departure of the ship elicited no demonstration from the people on the dock, excepting a few cheers from some warm-hearted fishermen. whether the good people of newfoundland were disgusted because they could not sell any more supplies at extravagant prices, or were displeased with the yankee explorers for presuming to compete with englishmen in the icy north, are questions not to be easily solved.
during his stay in st. john’s, lieutenant lockwood wrote a letter to his mother, in which he gave the following account of the city:
“st. john’s is a queer and forlorn old place; everything is antiquated, slow, and behind the times in 65 every respect. the few hotels are more like third-class boarding-houses; a livery-stable is not to be found in this city of thirty thousand. this condition of affairs is said to be due to the religion of the place, which is roman catholic. it is charged that ignorance and poverty are what this church most thrives on, and it is certainly a thriving church here. the other day the shops were all closed, and the place assumed the appearance of sunday—it was a holy day for their patron saints, peter and paul. only two classes here—the poor and the rich—and everything accords with the former class. crooked streets and mean, forlorn, dirty houses everywhere. the only respectable public buildings are the catholic churches and the convents.”
with the wind favorable, the sea calm, the sky clear, and all in good spirits, away went the vessel on her voyage to the north. a steam-launch, called the lady greely, rested securely on the main deck. it was arranged that the sergeants of the expedition should sleep in the cabin, eating at the second table, and the rest of the men live forward; and, though somewhat crowded, it was hoped they would all be comfortable. during the first twenty-four hours, two hundred miles were made. lieutenant greely and most of the men were sea-sick. at sunset on the second day out, the first iceberg was seen, and attracted the special attention of the land-lubbers. on the 9th, gales from the northwest set in, and the sick men became worse—the thermometer marking forty degrees, the air being damp and uncomfortable. 66 the wind moderated in the evening, but left the sea very rough, so that the steam-launch had to be secured in her cradle by braces. although then in the track of the st. lawrence trade, not a single vessel was seen, suggesting the idea that business was not flourishing. as to lieutenant lockwood, he was in good spirits, and amused himself by reading kennan’s interesting book on siberian life. on the following day the sea went down, and the sick men came up from their berths and were able to resume their places at the table, lockwood and kislingbury being the only ones who had escaped sea-sickness. when the former had finished kennan’s book, he took up barrow’s “voyage within the arctic circle,” reading it in the presence of several icebergs, which appeared as if they intended to welcome the band of yankee adventurers to their inhospitable domain.
on the morning of the 11th, notwithstanding the promise of fine summer weather, the sky became overcast, and at noon the captain, assisted by the volunteers, including lockwood, israel, and gardiner, could hardly succeed in getting observations, and though they reckoned the latitude at 58°, it was not reliable. rain, attended with high winds or gales, succeeded, the sufferers from sea-sickness finding refuge in their berths. ellis, one of the sergeants, suffered more than the others, having refused all food since leaving port. they could give him no aid save a little wine and beef-tea. the cold, cheerless weather depressed the spirits of all, but they hoped to get used 67 to it. the days were sensibly growing longer, beginning at 1.45 a. m. and closing at 10 p. m. they now remarked the absence of icebergs and ice-floes, and wondered whether this meant that the previous winter in the north had been so mild that but little ice had formed, or that the spring had been so backward that but little had become detached and drifted southward. they had learned at st. john’s that the late winter had been the mildest ever known there. at the close of the 11th, no land was in sight, and they had made seven hundred miles. the steward informed lockwood that the men were growling about their food, which was the same as that received in the cabin. he thought this a bad sign for arctic explorers, but tried to make matters more satisfactory.
the next day was disagreeable, a cold rain falling; and though a strong head-wind was blowing, the sea was smooth, betokening land or ice, it was supposed. accordingly, at 9 p. m., they were aroused by the cry of “ice ahead,” and, sure enough, there was seen, extending over 90° of the horizon, the white line indicating an ice-floe. coming up to the ice, they found it to consist of detached pieces flowing southward. some of these assumed the most fantastic shapes—dogs, seals, and other animals, and even houses and castles, readily presenting themselves to the imagination. one piece looked like an old ruin. the pillars, dome, and vaulted roof, all were there; indeed, the effect was perfect. again, other pieces presented varieties of color most beautiful and remarkable. generally, the lower parts being dark blue, were surmounted 68 by a stratum of pure white, resembling snow, but really the purest ice. they were two hours in getting through this floe. although daylight was continuous, they could not, because of fogs, distinguish the hours of sunrise or sunset.
on the following day the weather was still cloudy, and another ice-floe detained them two hours. they also saw many isolated pieces and large icebergs in the distance. this ice, it was said, came from the east coast of greenland with a current which, flowing around cape farewell, passes up the west coast half way to disco. it still proved interesting to the voyagers by reason of its fantastic shapes and diversified colors—white, blue, and green. it rose a few feet above the water-line, and the submerged portion of the floe colored the water a most beautiful green. seals were then seen for the first time, basking in the sun on the ice. judging from the increased seas, they expected no more ice-floes in front. the temperature also indicated this, for it was sensibly warmer. lockwood, who seemed never to be idle, now finished barrow and took up captain nares’s “british expedition of 1875-’76,” reading, writing, and bowditch occupying much of his time. the crow’s nest was hoisted to the main-top on that day. this was a large barrel or hogshead with peep-holes on the side and a trap beneath. this afforded shelter for a man posted there who looked out for the ice and the best way of getting through it.
on the 16th, fogs detained them and interfered with noon observations, but, lifting at three o’clock, they 69 sighted the greenland coast on the starboard bow, distant fifteen miles. the coast-line appeared exceedingly rugged and broken, and the interior, mountainous with deep ravines running very abruptly down to the sea. the mountain-tops were covered with snow, but generally the sides were bare of snow except the ravines, which seemed to be filled up entirely. this range of mountains reminded lockwood of the uncompahgre chain in colorado as seen from los pinos valley. they saw the usual number of gulls and a species of duck called the sea-pigeon, also several whales blowing and spouting in the distance, surrounded by flocks of small birds which seemed to feed on their offal. kislingbury and the steward tried rifles on these whales, but without success. one whale being near by, with apparent design to cross the track of the vessel, was met by the rifle-ball, but with no other effect than to cause him to throw up his tail and dive below the surface. the thermometer rose to 50° on that day, rendering the deck, where all were assembled to view the prospect, quite comfortable. they then first witnessed the sunset since leaving st. john’s, because of the fogs and clouds that had constantly attended the voyage. the sun’s disk seemed greatly flattened just as it disappeared at 10.20, and presented much the appearance of a huge mushroom seen edgewise. enough of twilight remained at midnight to render the horizon visible.
on the 16th, they steamed cautiously through the fog, making but fourteen knots between noon and 6 p. m. then the high, bold bluffs forming the southern 70 coast of disco island loomed up in the distance directly ahead. these bluffs are almost vertical and probably five hundred feet high, and are desolate and barren in the extreme. their continuity is interrupted only by deep ravines, or ca?ons, which break through at various angles to the sea. they there found themselves in the midst of a hundred icebergs of every conceivable form and size, and in color of the purest white, resembling in the distance huge mountains of chalk. one of the sights that attracted special notice consisted of two bergs connected by an immense arch high enough overhead for the ship to sail beneath, reminding lockwood of the natural bridge of virginia. on near approach it looked like marble and was quite as smooth. some time afterward, and when two miles away, a signal-gun was fired for a pilot. this was followed by a rumbling noise, which caused the voyagers to look back, when they were surprised to see this immense arch tumble over and fall into the sea, throwing the spray a hundred feet into the air and producing a commotion of the sea sensible two miles away, and soon after followed by a noise like distant thunder. most truly sublime were both spectacle and catastrophe! icebergs are regarded as very dangerous both by the esquimaux and by experienced arctic travelers, and are given a wide berth.
moving on at a low speed, the steamer was finally boarded by a white man attended by an esquimaux, the former introducing himself as mr. gleichen, the governor of godhaven, lively, or disco, as the capital is variously called. the vessel was soon twisted through the narrow opening behind which the town lies, and the voyagers found themselves in the snuggest and smallest harbor, for its depth of water, that any of the party had ever seen. on one side were the high cliffs, barren and rugged, and on the other the few habitations which constituted the place, the only dwellings presenting an appearance of anything more than squalid huts being those of the governor and of the inspector, a mr. smith. besides the dwellings, there were several warehouses and a church, all of wood. the huts of the natives were to some extent of wood, but strengthened and made warm by thick walls of sod reaching to the eaves.
greely, kislingbury, and lockwood immediately went ashore to visit the inspector, whose house stood near the water and presented a neat appearance. within they found quite an air of comfort and refinement. a piano, a small billiard-table, a well-filled book-case, carpets, pictures, and many other evidences of civilization and even elegance were there. they found the wife of the inspector very pleasant and speaking english fluently, while her daughter and a governess, though speaking english with difficulty, were well dressed and ladylike. after taking wine with these hospitable ladies, the lieutenants left their commander to continue the conversation and wandered forth to view the town. passing without mishap several cross-looking esquimaux dogs, they found themselves in what seemed a carpenter’s shop, on the large, bare floor of which a dance was in progress. after playing spectators for some time they indulged in a 72 waltz with the prettiest girls in the room, and were surprised and pleased to find how well they got along together. their round dances were found to be like many figures of the “german” as danced in the united states. kislingbury gave the natives an exhibition of the indian dance, and thus became a favorite with them.
the dress of the men consisted of a pair of sealskin pantaloons and a woolen or checked shirt. that of the women was very peculiar—indeed, unique. one of the girls, whose dress may be taken to illustrate all, wore a pair of seal-skin pantalets bound at the hips by a red scarf and terminating just above the knees, where they met the white canvas tops of a pair of boots, or rather leggings. these reached to the calf, and there met the tops of red seal-skin bootlets, into which they were inserted. these leggings were starched and prettily fringed at the top, and their color indicated the state as to matrimony of the wearer, white being reserved for maidens, and colors for those that were married. this distinction was afterward found to be general. the pantalets were plain, except some red leather pieces sewed on in front by way of ornament. the upper garment consisted of a pretty, fancy-colored cassock, or jacket, extending barely to the hips, replaced in cold weather by the same of seal-skin with a hood. the upper part of the jacket was concealed by a necklace, or rather by several necklaces, sewed together flat, which formed a collar covering the bosom and shoulders. the head was covered by a kind of chaplet formed of fancy-colored 73 cloth, and the hair was done up in a queue, which extended upward and backward from the top of the head, and was tied with colored ribbon. the wrists and neck were encircled with boas of dark-colored furs, which contrasted well with the bright-colored skin. the arms were bare to the short sleeves of the jacket, and on the fingers were a number of rings. so much for the disco belles!
the dancing officers did not reach their ship until after midnight, and soon after the sun rose, flooding all nature with his glorious light, and seemingly affecting natives and strangers alike, for both were seen standing around to admire and enjoy the benediction of nature.
inspector smith visited the steamer, dressed in a military coat with brass buttons, and military cap with wide gold-lace band, but wearing seal-skin trousers. the strangers soon found themselves surrounded by a fleet of esquimaux boats, called kyacks, resembling in form a cigar cut in half lengthwise and turned up at both ends. the framework of wood was covered with seal-skin with the hair removed. in the center was a hole into which the occupant inserted the lower part of his body to the hips, drawing up at the same time a cylindrical piece of seal-skin which was attached to the rim of the hole. when the top of this is gathered up and secured over his chest, the man and boat are practically one, and both are water-proof under all circumstances. the upper surface of the kyack is but an inch or two above the water when smooth, and when rough, of course it is frequently submerged entirely. 74 in this craft the kyacker braves the billows of the open sea, and, provided with lance and harpoon to slay his game, and bladder and rope to mark its flight when struck and buoy up its body when killed, he attacks the seal, walrus, or even the narwhal. in south greenland, where there is more open water, the kyackers become very expert, and, by means of their short, two-bladed paddles, can easily right themselves when upset, or even perform a complete revolution without changing position or posture.
on sunday, the 17th, lieutenant lockwood called on the governor, and then went into many of the houses of the place; he found the natives polite and hospitable, living in clean, well-built huts, whose interior presented nothing peculiar except that about one third of the floor was raised a few feet, constituting a platform, which was used as the sleeping-couch of the whole family by night, and by day as a place of deposit for articles in daily use. the walls were adorned with rough prints or illustrations from european and american papers. in one house was seen a translation of the psalms into esquimaux. their words are run together, as in the german language. lockwood made some purchases, giving in return an old pair of pantaloons, old clothes being a circulating medium, and preferred to money. he was surprised to find that these people had a paper currency, the units being the ocre and the crown, one hundred ocres making one crown, while the crown is worth about an english shilling. in dealing with one another, the ocre seems to go a good way, but not so when a 75 stranger is dealt with; and to do much shopping with this currency, one must carry a load of paper equal to what was required of confederate currency in wartimes to buy a barrel of flour. the coins were of copper, valued each at five ocres.
on the following day, lieutenants greely, kislingbury, and lockwood, all dined at four o’clock with the inspector’s family, by invitation of his wife, in the absence of her husband on official duty; the courses being soup, fish, eider-duck, and canned green peas, with a dessert of jelly; wines and brandy being served with the courses. the cooking and serving were excellent, the waitress an esquimaux damsel in pantalets. afterward, with others, they called on the governor, and with him went down to witness a dance. lockwood learned that the population of the two divisions of north and south greenland together was about nine thousand souls.
on the 19th, at the request of lieutenant greely, lockwood made an exploration of the mountain-cliffs south of the town. after a long tramp over the soggy moss, and up steep cliffs, much annoyed by innumerable mosquitoes, he returned to dinner, with very little information worthy of mention. after superintending some stowage, he again called to see mrs. smith, the inspector’s wife, and enjoyed her excellent piano-music, to say nothing of the wine and cigars she offered. then he went to the dance, but not until after the men had left. these greenland dances, as already intimated, resemble the virginia reel, differing only in the alternate 76 chasing of the partners through the two rows till caught.
having completed their stowage and coaling, and having taken on board fourteen dogs with their food, they would have left disco but for the fogs. dr. pavy, who had been left there by howgate, joined the party on the 20th, as surgeon, as mr. clay was expected to do at ritenbank. they had some music on the chapel organ in the evening, which was well rendered.
the penning of the dogs was a scene of excitement and amusement. their snarling and biting and fighting had no end until one of the number present was acknowledged, for his prowess and valor, the victor by all the others. then the battle ceased, but only until there was a new arrival, when the battle was renewed and the parvenu put hors de combat, or declared king. in due time the steamer left disco, and arrived at ritenbank between 10 and 12 a. m. the harbor was found to be quite roomy and the entrance wide and deep; icebergs float into it, and thus render ritenbank less desirable as a harbor than disco. while there, with mr. clay (who now joined the expedition) and some of the men, lockwood visited the neighboring bird mountains or looneries, rowing up a fiord some three miles distant. the approach to these was manifested by the commotion among the innumerable eider-ducks and other wild fowl flying overhead, swimming in the water around, or occupying the narrow ledges of the vertical cliffs on either side, some of which were five hundred feet high and covered with 77 birds. the shot used being too small, would kill only at short range, and it was difficult to obtain the game; consequently they got only seventy fowls of various kinds. on their return they visited an innuit burying-ground, which, from its antiquity, must contain many of the natives, whose blood is much purer than that of the present stock; for it is said the present esquimaux blood is now very much mixed. the graves were oblong piles of lichen-covered stones, containing the moldering skeletons, which were generally in a sitting posture. but little regard is paid to the dead in greenland. influenza, and consumption induced thereby, are rapidly carrying off the natives, and this is increased by uncleanly habits, improper food, and bad ventilation, the latter aggravated by the introduction of small stoves into their close houses. the present longevity, it is said, averages thirty-three years.
the prevailing fogs greatly decreased the pleasure the explorers would have had in viewing the grand scenery in the passage to upernavik, which they reached on the 23d of july, or in about fifteen days from newfoundland. they had in sight numbers of icebergs, some of immense size. the whole western coast of greenland is skirted with islands, separated from each other and the mainland by deep fiords. if it were not for the fogs, a pleasant summer excursion could be made through these fiords to the everlasting barrier of glaciers, which render the interior a veritable land of desolation.
very soon after the expedition had arrived at 78 upernavik, it was found necessary for some one to go to a place called proven, to obtain esquimaux guides and a supply of arctic clothing, and to lieutenant lockwood was assigned this duty. he and his helpers boarded the steam-launch, and, with governor elburg as guide, proceeded on their way through an inner passage leading to the place of destination. their course lay along rocky and precipitous cliffs, many of them covered with auks and other wild fowl. the cliffs attained an elevation of two and three thousand feet, and were so smooth and regular as to have the appearance of having been made by man. without any shore whatever, large ships could lie alongside in safety. on their arrival at proven, they saw the whole population in their picturesque costumes lining the shore, to view what they had never seen before—a craft moving without oars or sails.
near the shore were located four large warehouses where seal-oil was deposited before shipment, and where also were kept by the danish government supplies of provisions for issue to the natives in case of emergency. the huts of the natives were found still more primitive than those at disco, for here the entrance was through a long, low gallery, requiring one to grope in darkness almost on hands and knees. lockwood softened the heart of the occupant of one by presents of tobacco, and induced him to play on his fiddle simple airs which he had picked up from whaling-crews. this brought in all the damsels of the town, and soon waltzes and other dances prevailed. the lieutenant did not consider it beneath his dignity 79 to “show a heel.” he unfortunately answered affirmatively to the question, “are you big captain?” and was also imprudent in giving an old lady a half-dozen ocres. he was at once pounced upon by every one as lawful prey, and, what through begging, extortion, and other means, the “big captain” was soon rid of all his change, and might have been reduced to a state of nudity but for the timely arrival of the governor, who took him home to dine and to lodge. the soup, though sweet to the taste, was good; floating in it were lemon-peel and raisins. next came reindeer-steaks cooked in wine and most delicious. potatoes were the only vegetable. cooking and serving excellent. brandy, beer, and wine in profusion. the meal terminated by a general hand-shaking, according to custom, and the governor kissed his wife. the lodging was equally agreeable, affording the luxury of a clean feather bed. in the morning, and while yet in bed, a young esquimaux damsel in pantalets brought the american a cup of strong coffee with a few crackers. that day he took on board the launch two esquimaux, frederick christiansen and jans edwards, lashing their kyacks behind, also the seal-skin, dog-skin, and other clothing they had come for, and at midnight left amid the hearty cheers of the natives and the tears and lamentations of the friends of jans and frederick who had come to see them off.
after an uneventful passage, and stopping only to add one hundred and twenty-seven birds to their larder, the launch reached the ship at 10 a. m. on the 25th. lieutenant kislingbury and a crew in the 80 whale-boat afterward went to sanderson’s hope island and secured several hundred more, so that there was no scarcity of fresh food. in the mean time some new dogs were secured, so that the total number now on hand was thirty-two.
the ship left upernavik on the 29th, and, keeping the inner passage, made her way toward the north.
while crossing melville bay on the 30th, there was no ice in sight except bergs, and the sun shone brightly. that state of things was a great surprise to the explorers, as here it was that mcclintock was frozen in for a whole year, and nares congratulated himself in having passed the bay without detention. indeed, melville bay has always been regarded as the bête noire of arctic travel. an arctic bear found on a broken pack of floating ice was killed by lieutenant kislingbury, and, when hoisted on board, was found to weigh a thousand pounds and to measure seven feet two inches in length. they were probably fifty miles from land at the time.
on the last day of july, the proteus party sighted land, which they supposed to be cape dudley diggs, north of melville’s bay. much old floating ice was seen, but so rotten as to offer no obstruction. several seals and many little auks were killed and secured.
about this time lockwood and others observed tokens of disrespect and insubordination on the part of some of the men, which were traced to a certain corporal as ringleader. lockwood watched him with care, and urged the propriety of sending him home by the first opportunity, which was afterward done.
81
on one occasion, toward evening, the voyagers witnessed the overturning of an iceberg three hundred feet long and one hundred and fifty feet high. after capsizing, it continued to revolve on several axes for some time. its change of base was preceded by the fall of several detached pieces, thus shifting its center of gravity.
the next day, august 1st, was clear and cool, and without fog. passed dudley diggs at noon and then steered for gary islands, sighting them three hours later. the officers looked hard for the crimson cliffs near dudley diggs noticed by sir john ross, but observed only some slight discoloration of the snow. the glacier near this cape seemed to be two or three miles long; at the sea-shore, of inconsiderable height, but in the background, attaining an imposing elevation. the ship’s compasses, as usual in this latitude, were all crazy, occasioning some bewilderment to the captain. the bear and seal meats were duly served on shipboard, and pronounced palatable by all, though to some the bear-meat was slightly fishy. two boats with all the officers and others landed on the most easterly of the cary islands, and proceeded at once to find and inspect the cache of provisions—thirty-six hundred rations—left there by sir george nares for his own safety. they were apparently in good condition, notwithstanding many of the barrels resting on their ends afforded opportunity for rain and snow-water to enter. some biscuits were found moldy. replaced the nares record by a copy, and also left a full record of the proteus. there was found 82 there an excellent whale-boat, turned bottom upward, with oars and sails complete. this lockwood urged lieutenant greely to take along, but he preferred getting the one at foulke point. the former regarded the supply of boats as too small, and circumstances might arise which would cause them to regret not using this one. they had only the steam-launch, a twenty-four-feet whale-boat, and a small, fourteen-feet row-boat—the whale-boat being the only one to be depended on in case of accident. the boat at point foulke was thought to be inferior. they picked up driftwood, an oar, and some burned pieces of a ship’s stem or stern. they also saw some red snow, and shot several eider-ducks. the cary islands were found to be barren masses of rocks without vegetation.
the steamer came to anchor at littleton island at 9 a. m. on the 2d of august, just as the steering-gear gave way. a party went to “life-boat cove” and brought back a number of articles left by the polaris expedition of 1873. they saw neither esquimaux nor reindeer, but shot a walrus. lieutenant greely made an effort to find the cairn left there by nares, and the letters left for nares by the pandora. he found the letters but not the cairn, though there was a dismantled cairn afterward seen by others. lockwood with a party of men put ashore several tons of coal, which, as it had to be carried up some thirty feet above the sea-level, he found no easy job. while thus engaged, this party had an adventure with some walruses, not unattended with danger. having excited a drove of them by a simultaneous fire, the 83 animals came toward the boat, and at one time held its inmates in peril. lockwood alone was prepared to meet the foremost, and by good luck slew one of them, when all the rest disappeared. the walrus can be killed only through the brain, and when wounded, the animal is exceedingly ferocious. numberless boats have been destroyed by them. lamont thinks the walrus superior to the bear for food. those they saw were evidently a female and her young, and their safety was in having killed the mother. littleton island affords a good illustration of these shores. the sides rise precipitously, sometimes in steps composed of immense cubes of trap-rock, sometimes in steep slopes formed from the crumbling of the same. the top of the island is seven hundred feet high, according to nares, and generally quite level. of soil, there is none. the summit afforded a fine view of the sound, though somewhat obstructed by fog. no floating ice; and the western coast with its snowy mountains quite distinct.
having crossed the strait during the night of the 2d of august, in the early morning they ran along the western coast, which was very distinct and picturesque, the bluffs and headlands being reflected by the smooth sea. striking the western coast near cape sabine, at 8 a. m. they reached cape hawkes, a headland over a thousand feet high and very picturesque. while lieutenants greely and kislingbury visited the cairn there, dr. pavy and lieutenant lockwood went to find the record on washington irving island, both left by nares. they then continued their way with slight interruptions 84 from fogs until abreast of franklin island, when they were obliged to lay-to because of fog. they had not been delayed a moment by ice, and were surprised to see so little of it. their success emboldened them to hope that they might reach lady franklin bay without obstruction. indeed, they even thought of inducing captain pike to run on until he reached the north pole itself, or at least till he attained a higher latitude than did nares. one of the dogs having died, they became impressed with the thought that the poor curs suffered much from being cooped up and from the damp weather. the party continued on their way up kennedy channel with everything favorable, having the finest weather yet seen; air soft and balmy, sky clear, and water smooth.
on reaching the vicinity of franklin island and carl ritter bay, they left there a small deposit of hard bread, pemmican, and rum, and continued on their way rejoicing; and so onward until nearly 10 p. m., when, just above cape lieber, they encountered an impenetrable pack extending all the way across the channel, and as far ahead as they could see. the ship made a savage dash at it, but in vain, and thus, but eight miles from lady franklin bay, and with cape baird in full view, they were brought to a standstill. the mountains along the coast were covered with snow, but the valleys and low places were bare. the prominent objects of the landscape were all distinctly seen from their position—capes lieber and baird on the left, franklin, hans, and hanna islands 85 in the rear and left, and, in the far distance, polaris promontory and petermann’s fiord, with the glacier beyond. a party that went on shore saw traces of the musk-ox, but no animals were seen.
several of the officers and men attempted the ascent of the promontory of cape lieber, a precipitous cliff three thousand feet high, which seemed but a stone’s throw away, but to reach which required a long, cold row, and then a fatiguing and painful climb. lockwood and two only of the party succeeded. the difficulty was in the giving way of the crumbling slate-rock, which formed an incline of 45°. those that reached the summit were rewarded by a grand view, extending to the limit of vision. on their return, after clambering over some rocks cropping out of the slippery snow and ice, they chose a short cut and came down at a run, or rather slide, followed by a miniature avalanche of débris. on the 6th of august, it was found that the icy barrier, which evidently came from the polar sea, was moving south, carrying the steamer along. some game was seen in both air and water, but none taken. parties attempted to reach the shore on the ice, but were recalled by signal, as moving ice was seen from the ship, and also open water near the shore.
from this point they slowly drifted south, with high winds from the north which opened up lanes of water which they did not think safe to enter. the total drift amounted to ten miles. with the lowering of temperature, it was suggested that it would be well to move across the channel, along the pack, 86 and, if needful, land on the greenland shore, possibly where hall had wintered.
on the 11th of august, the ice barrier gave way under a change of wind and weather, leaving the passage open. under full steam and sail, and with beautiful weather, they soon regained all the distance they had lost by drift, passed cape lieber, and came abreast of cape baird. thence forcing their way through the broken ice of the bay, and reaching bellot island, which marks the beginning of discovery harbor, they cut their way to a secure spot for the ship to rest in. and thus ended the voyage to lady franklin bay or sound. as this harbor, or a spot in its vicinity called fort conger, was the one where the signal-service station was to be established, the steamer proteus here ended her voyage, soon to return to newfoundland. discovery harbor, which was to be their home, is an indentation of the bay covered by bellot island on the south. this indentation extends east and west some ten miles, and is probably two or three miles from north to south. inclosing the harbor on three sides is a line of rugged bluffs and hills (or rather mountains, for they are two thousand feet high), those on the east side sloping back gradually, but elsewhere precipitous and rugged in the extreme. thus, with bellot’s island fifteen hundred feet high on the south, was formed a harbor, landlocked and most admirably sheltered.
