the noise of paris came to him through the open windows, a confusion of trivial sounds utterly different from the solid, strong note that london gave forth. it was the noise of a nursery of children playing with toys—he heard the continuous jingle of bells round the necks of the horses that drew the cabs, the shouts of men crying newspapers, the squeaking horns of motor-cars, and, every afternoon, at this hour, the sound of some pedlar calling attention to his wares, with a trumpet that had a tinny sound.
at intervals the voice of paris, modified by the height at which he lived and the distance he was from the grands boulevards, sent a shout to him that reminded him of london. that was when a heavy rumbling shook the narrow street which was one of the tributaries of the boulevards, as a monstrous, unwieldy omnibus, drawn by three horses abreast, rolled upwards on its passage to the gare du nord. the horses' hoofs slapped the street with the clatter of iron on stone, and the passing of the omnibus drowned every other sound with its thunder, so that when it had gone, and the echoes of its passage had died away, the voice of paris seemed more mincing and playful than before.
humphrey had been in paris six months now, but the first impression that the city gave had never been erased from his mind.
at first the name had filled him with a curious kind of awe: paris and the splendour of its art and life, and the history which linked the centuries together; all the history of the kings of france which he did not know,[284] and the rest that he knew with the vagueness of a somewhat neglected education—the bloody days of the revolution, the siege, the commune; paris, the cockpit of history and the pleasure-house of the world. there was some enchantment in the thought of going to paris, not as a mere visitor, but as a worker, one who was to share the daily lives of the people.
and he had arrived in the evening of a february day, in the crisp cold, bewildered by the strangeness of the station. the huge engine had dragged him and his fellows—englishmen chiefly, travelling southwards, and eastwards, and westwards in search of sunshine—across the black country of france, into the greener, sweeter meadows of the valley of the loire, with tall poplars on the sky-line, through the suburbs with their red and white houses looking as if they had been built yesterday, to the vaulted bareness of the gare du nord. there, as it puffed and panted, like a stout, elderly gentleman out of breath, it seemed to gasp: "i've done my part. look after yourselves."
to leave the train was like leaving a friend. one stepped to the low platform and became an insect in a web of blue-bloused porters, helpless, eager to placate, afraid of creating a disturbance. it seemed to humphrey in those first few moments that these people were inimical to him; they spoke to him roughly and without the traditional politeness of french people. the black-bearded ticket-collector snatched the little cook's pocket-book from his hand, tore out the last tickets, and thrust it back on him, murmuring some complaint, possibly because humphrey had not unclasped the elastic band. there was bother about luggage too; heaven knows what, but he waited dismally and hungrily in the vast room, with its flicker of white light from the arc-lamps above the low counters at which the customs-men, in their shabby uniforms, seemed to be quarrelling[285] with one another, their voices pitched in the loud key that is seldom used in england.
he was required to explain and explain again to three or four officials; something of a minor, technical point, he gathered, was barring him from his baggage. his french was not quite adequate to the occasion; but it was maddening to see them shrug their shoulders with a movement that suggested that they rejoiced in his discomfiture.... it was all straightened out, somehow, by a uniformed interpreter, a friendly man who came into humphrey's existence for a moment, and passed out of it in a casual way, a professional dispenser of sympathy and help, expecting no more reward than a franc or so for services that deserved a life-long gratitude.
but when the cabman had shouted at him, and the blue-bloused porters (one had attached himself to each of his four pieces of baggage) had insisted on their full payment, and after there had been an exchange of abuse between the cabman and an itinerant seller of violets, whose barrow had nearly been run down, humphrey looked out of the window and caught his first glimpses of paris ... of the light that suggested warmth and laughter.
he saw great splashes of light, and through the broad glass windows of the cafés a vision of cosy rooms, bustling with the business of eating, of white tables at which men and women sat—ordinary middle-class people. the movement of their arms and shoulders and heads showed that conversation was brisk during their meal; they smiled at one another.
as the cab sped softly along on its pneumatic tyres, he saw picture after picture of this kind, set in its frame of light. "i shall like living here," he thought. chance decreed that the rue le peletier was being repaired, and the cab swung out of the narrower streets into the[286] vivid and wonderful brilliance of the boulevard des italiens.
the street throbbed with light and life. he was in a broad avenue with windows that blazed with splendid colour in the night. the faces of the clocks in the middle of the avenue were lit up; the lamps of the flower and newspaper kiosks made pools of shining yellow on the pavement; and above him the red and golden and green of the illuminated advertisements came and went, sending their iridescence into the night. it was not one unbearable glare that startled the eyes, but a blend of many delicate and fine luminous tints: one café was lit with electric lights that gave out a soft pale rose colour, another was of the faintest blue, and a third a delicate yellow, and all these different notes of light rushed together in a lucent harmony.
music floated to him as he passed slowly in the stream of bleating and jingling and hooting traffic. he saw the people sitting outside the cafés near braziers of glowing coal, calmly drinking coloured liquids, as though there were no such thing as work in the world.
and that was the thought that gave humphrey his first impression of paris. these people, it seemed, only played with life. there was something artificial and unreal about all these cafés: they played at being angry (that business at the customs office was part of the game), an agent held up a little white baton to stop the traffic—playing at being a london policeman, thought humphrey. he wondered whether this sort of thing went on always, with an absurd thought of the paris he had seen at a london exhibition.
the cab veered out of the traffic down a side-street between two cafés larger than the rest, and, at the last glimpse of people sitting in overcoats and furs by the braziers, he laughed in the delight of it. "why, they're playing at it being summer," he said to himself.
[287]
six months had passed since that day, and he had seen paris in many aspects, yet nothing could alter his first impression. the whole city was built as a temple of pleasure, a feminine city, with all the shops in the rue royale or the avenue de l'opera decked with fine jewels and sables. huge emporiums everywhere, crowded with silks and ribbons and lace; wonderful restaurants, with soft rose-shaded lights and mauve and grey tapestries, as dainty as a lady's boudoir. somewhere, very discreetly kept in the background, men and women toiled behind the scenes of luxury and pleasure ... those markets in the bleak morning, and the factories on the outskirts of the city, and along the outer boulevards one saw great-chested men and narrow-chested girls walking homewards from their day's work. but there was pleasure, even for these people: the material pleasure of life, and the spiritual pleasure of art and beauty. the first they could satisfy with a jolly meal in the little bright restaurants of their quarter with red wine and cognac; and of the second they could take their fill for nothing, if they were so minded, for it surrounded them in a scattered profusion everywhere.
humphrey, in the paris office of the day, on the fourth floor of an apartment building in the rue le peletier, sat dreaming of all that had happened in the past six months. wonderful months had they been to him! they had altered his whole perception of things. here, in a new world and a new city, he was beginning to see things in a truer proportion. fleet street receded into the far perspective as something quite small and unimportant; the men themselves, even, seemed narrow-minded and petty, incapable of thinking more deeply than the news of the day demanded.
humphrey, from the heights of his room in paris, began to see how broad the world was, that it was finer[288] to deal with nations than individuals, and from his view fleet street appeared to him in the same relation as easterham had appeared to him in london.
the clock struck five. rivers and neckinger and selsey would be going into the conference now in ferrol's room to discuss the contents of the paper.
"anything big from paris?" some one would be asking, or "what about berlin?"... and he knew that every night they looked towards paris, where amazing things happened, and he, humphrey quain, was paris. that splendid thought thrilled him to the greatest endeavour. he was the day's watchman in paris, not only of all the news that happened in the capital, but of all the happenings in the whole territory of france.
a pile of cuttings from the morning's papers were on his desk. here was a leading article on the franco-german relations from the echo de paris—an important leading article, obviously inspired by the quai d'orsay. there was a two-column account of the hanon case—an extraordinary murder in lyons which english readers were following with great interest. there was a budget of "fait-divers," those astonishing events in which the fertility of the paris journalist's imagination rises to its highest point. they supplied the "human interest." he had received a wire from london to interview a famous french actress, who was going to play in a london theatre, and that had kept him busy for the afternoon. the morning had been devoted to reading every paris paper.
at five o'clock dagneau arrived with the evening papers, bought from the fat old woman who kept the kiosk outside the café riche. he let himself into the flat with a latch-key, and appeared before humphrey, a young man, immaculately dressed, with a light beard fringing his fat cheeks. humphrey could never quite[289] overcome the oddness of having a bearded man as his junior. dagneau was only twenty-two, but he had grown a beard since he was twenty; that was how youths played at being men. humphrey called dagneau "the lamb."
"hullo," he said. "anything special?"
dagneau's pronunciation of english was as bad as humphrey's pronunciation of french, but in both cases the vocabulary was immense.
"they're crying 'death of the president' on the boulevards," said dagneau.
humphrey leapt up. "great heavens! you don't say so!" he shouted, going to the telephone.
"be not in a hurry, mon vieux." (though dagneau was his assistant, they dropped all formalities between themselves.) "it is in la presse."
"but—"
"calm yourself. la presse is selling in thousands. the news is printed in great black letters across the front page."
"is it true?" gasped humphrey.
"it is true that the president is dead—but it is the president of montemujo or something like that in south america, and not m. loubet."
dagneau laughed merrily and slapped the papers on the table. he took humphrey by the shoulders and shook him playfully.
"i—would i let my old and faithful englishman down?" he asked. the newspaper phrase spoken as dagneau spoke it sounded delightful.
"by george, you gave me a shock," humphrey laughed. "i thought i'd been dozing for an hour with the president dead. dagneau, you are an espèce de—anything you like."
"any telegrams from london?"
"one to interview jeanne granier. i've done it[290] will you go through the evening papers? look out for the temps comments on the persian railway ... they're running that in london. and the latest stuff about the hanon case. i'll run round to le parisien and see what they've got."
he went down the winding staircase, past the red-faced concierge and his enormous wife, who knitted perpetually by the door ("pas des lettres, m'sieu," she said, in answer to his inquiring look), and so into the street. a passing cabman held up his whip in appeal, and, as moments were precious now, humphrey engaged him. they bowled along through the side-streets, and at the end of each he saw, repeated, the glorious opal and orange sunset over paris: those magnificent sunsets that left the sky in a smother of golden and purple and dark clouds edged with livid light behind the steeple of st augustine. they came to the building of le parisien, with whom the day had an arrangement by which humphrey could see their proofs evening and night, in exchange for extending the same privilege to the london correspondent of le parisien at the offices of the day.
he crossed the threshold into the familiar atmosphere of fleet street. hurry and activity: young frenchmen writing rapidly in room after room. some of them knew him, looked up from their work and nodded to him. from below the printing-machines sent tremors through the building, as they rolled off the first edition for the distant provinces of france, and for the night trains to every capital of europe. the same old work was going on here: the same incessant quest and record of news.
he went to the room of barboux, the foreign editor.
"good-evening," said barboux, black-bearded, fat and bald-headed. he pronounced "evening" as though it were a french word, and it came out "événandje."
[291]
barboux offered humphrey a cigarette he had just rolled with black tobacco, and asked him most intimate questions of his doings in paris, so that humphrey had either to acknowledge himself a prude or a parisian.
"all the same," said barboux, "paris is a wonderful city, hein?"
"it is," said humphrey.
barboux continued: "is it not the most beautiful, the most wonderful, the most entrancing city in the world, young englishman?"
"all except london," replied humphrey.
"rosbif—goddam—i box your nose," laughed barboux.
it was a set form of dialogue that took place every night between them, without variation, a joke invented by barboux.
a man in an apron—a french version of the type in the day's printing-office—brought in a budget of proofs.
"there is nothing that is happening, ain't it?" remarked barboux, who always rendered n'est ce pas in this literal fashion.
"apparently not," humphrey agreed, glancing through the proofs. "when do they expect the verdict in the hanon case?"
barboux touched a bell. a young man appeared. his hair was fair and long, his clothes were faultless to the crease in the trousers turned up in the english style over patent-leather shoes with the laces tied in big bows. barboux introduced him: "m. charnac will tell you about the hanon case."
the young man bowed in a charming manner, and spoke in a soft, delicious french, with a voice that was charged with courtesy and kindness.
"they do not expect a verdict to-night, m'sieu. the court has adjourned. i've just had the finish of our correspondent's message."
[292]
"merci," said humphrey.
"pas de quoi," said charnac, bowing.
humphrey rose and bowed with the ultra politeness that was now part of his daily life. they shook hands.
"enchanté d'avoir fait votre connaissance," and charnac bowed once more.
"enchanté," mumbled humphrey.
barboux was at the telephone, saying impatiently, "ah-lo.... ah ... lo." humphrey put on his hat, barboux extended his left hand—the greatest sign of friendship that a frenchman can give, since it implies that he knows you too well for you to take offence at it.
"à demain," said humphrey, as he went away.
when he came back to the office, work began in earnest. first of all he had to select from the budget of news on his table those items that would be most acceptable to english readers. that was no small matter on days when there were many things happening. it required sound judgment and a knowledge of what was best in news. then there was always the question of the other correspondents of london newspapers: what were the other fellows sending?
he and dagneau talked things over, and, finally, when they had decided what to transmit to london, the work of compiling the stories began. it was necessary to build up a coherent, comprehensive story out of the cuttings before him, in which all the points of the different papers should be mentioned. dagneau helped him, making illiterate translations of leading articles, that needed revising and knocking into shape. perhaps, even at the eleventh hour, a telegram might arrive from the london headquarters, setting them a new task, rendering void all the work they might have done.
after two hours' writing humphrey laid down his pen. "come along, my lamb," he said to dagneau; "let us go to dinner."
[293]
then they put on their hats and coats and went to boisson's, a few doors away in the rue le peletier, where père boisson presided over a pewter counter, spread with glasses and bottles, and mère boisson superintended the kitchen, and henri, the waiter, with a desperate squint, ran to and fro with his burden of plates, covering many miles every night by passing and repassing from the restaurant tables to the steamy recesses behind the door.
this was the part of paris life that pleased humphrey most.
they received him with cheery bons soirs, and henri paused in his race to set the chairs for them, and arrange their table. yards of crisp bread were brought to them, and a carafon of the red wine from touraine, whither m. boisson went on a pilgrimage once a year to sample and buy for himself.
little french olives and filet d'hareng saur; soup with sorrel floating in it; fish with black butter sauce; a contre-filet or a vol au vent deliciously cooked; roquefort cheese, and, to wind up with, what m. boisson called magnificently une belle poire—this was the little dinner they had for something under three francs, and, of course, there was special coffee to follow, and, as a piece of extravagance, a liqueur of mandarin or noyeau.
"this is better than fleet street," said humphrey, inhaling his cigarette and sipping at the excellent coffee. boisson in his shirt-sleeves and apron came over to them and spoke to them with light banter. he also had a joke of his own: he conceived it to be the highest form of humour to interject "aoh—yes—olright," several times during the conversation.
madame boisson waddled towards them, with an overflowing figure, and said, as if her future happiness depended on an answer in the affirmative, "vous avez bien diné, m'sieu."
[294]
the smell of food was pleasant here: there was no hurry; men and women concentrated all their attention on eating and enjoying their meal. the light shone on the glasses of red and white wine. it was a picture that delighted humphrey.
and dagneau was telling him of his adventures on the previous night with a little girl, the dearest little girl he had ever met, kissing the tips of his fingers to the air, whenever his emotions overcame him ... and humphrey smiled. this was a side of paris of which he knew nothing. his thoughts went back to london where elizabeth lived, beautiful and austere. "i must write to elizabeth to-night," he thought.
at nine-twenty dagneau caught the eye of henri and made an imaginary gesture of writing on the palm of his left hand. "that's the way to get a perfect french accent," he said to humphrey. henri nodded in swift comprehension and appeared with a piece of paper on which illegible figures were scrawled. they paid and went away, with the boissons and henri calling farewells to them. happy little restaurant in the rue le peletier!
they got back to the office just as the telephone bell was making a rattling din. humphrey sat down and adjusted over his head the steel band that held the receivers close to his ears. then, pulling the telephone closer to him, and spreading out before him all that he had written, he waited.
and, presently, sometimes receding and sometimes coming nearer above the hum and buzz that sounded like the wind and the waves roaring about the deep-sea cables, he heard the voice of westgate coming from england. "hallo ... hallo ... hallo.... that you, quain.... can't hear you.... get another line ... buzz—zz—zz ... oooo. ah! that's better." westgate's voice became suddenly clear and vibrating[295] as though he were speaking from the next room. but humphrey could see the little box in the sub-editors' room, where all the men were working round selsey, and the messenger-boys coming and going with their flimsy envelopes; he could see the strained, eager face of westgate, as he waited, pencil in hand ... and he began.
he shouted the news of paris for fifteen minutes, and at the end the perspiration wetted his forehead, and westgate's good-night left him exhausted. sometimes, when the wires were interfered with by a gale, the fifteen minutes were wasted in futile shouting and endeavour to be heard in london; sometimes westgate would say bluntly: "selsey says he doesn't want any of that story," when he began to read his carefully prepared notes. those were desperate minutes, shouting to london against time.
"all well?" asked dagneau, when he finished.
"i suppose so," humphrey answered. "westgate was in great form to-night—he was taking down at the rate of a hundred and twenty words a minute...." he rose and stretched himself. "will you pay the late call at the newspaper offices? i'll be at constans in case anything happens."
out again into the bright glamour of the boulevards to constans at the corner of the place de l'opera, in the shadow of the opera-house, to meet the other correspondents, and wait on the events of europe, and drink brandy and soda or the light lager-beer that was sold at constans.
it was a place where most of the paris correspondents gathered, and, sometimes, the "special correspondents" came also. they were lofty people, who had long since left the routine of fleet street; the princes of journalism, who passed through paris on their way to st petersburg, to madrid—to any part of europe or the world where[296] there was unrest; war correspondents, and special commissioners; men who had letters of introduction from diplomat to diplomat, who talked with kings and chancellors, and interviewed sultans. they flitted through paris whenever any big news happened, in twos and threes, only staying for a few hours at constans to meet friends, and then on again by the midnight expresses....
they were a jolly lot of fellows who met in those days at constans: o'malley of the sentinel, the fair-haired scholar who spoke of style in writing, and could speak french with an irish accent and knew how to ask the waiter to "apporthez des p'hommes de therrey"; punter, who represented the kelmscotts' papers, talked french politics late into the night, and wore a monocle that never dropped from his eye—not even in those exciting moments when michael, his coal-black eyes and hair betraying his ancestry, crossed his path in argument.
at midnight dagneau came in with word from the outside world. all was quiet. so humphrey went back to the hotel in the rue d'antin, where he rented a room on the fifth floor by the month for eighty francs, including the morning roll and bowl of coffee. he wrote his letter to elizabeth: he wanted her to come to paris and share his life with him.
