in our intercourse with the roumanian peasantry we are constantly reminded of the fact that only yesterday they were a barbarous race with whom murder and plunder were every-day habits, and in whom the precepts of respect for life and property have yet to be instilled. not that the roumanian is by nature murderously inclined—on the contrary, he is gentle and harmless enough as a general rule, and in nine cases out of ten the idea of harming you will not even occur to him; but should your life by any chance happen to stand between him and the object of his desire, no sentiment of religion or morality will be likely to restrain him from using his knife as freely as he would in the case of a hare or roe-deer. it is not that he takes life for the pleasure of shedding blood, but simply that he sets little value on it, and that he regards as far greater sin any infraction of his church laws than the most flagrant attack on life and property.
the study of this people, gradually emerging from barbarism into civilization, is most curious and interesting. while eagerly grasping at the benefits held out to them by science, they are as yet unable to shake themselves clear of the cobwebs of paganism and superstition which often obscure their vision. it is the struggle between past and future, between darkness and light, between superstition and science; and who can doubt that the result will be a brilliant one, and that a glorious resurrection awaits these spirits, so long enchained in bondage.{300} but this hour has not yet struck, and the study of this people, however interesting, has its drawbacks, sometimes even perils; and especially for a lady, it is not always advisable to trust herself alone and unarmed in one of the out-of-the-way roumanian villages, as i had occasion myself to discover in one of my expeditions to a hamlet lying south-east of hermanstadt.
some time previously i had “spotted” this place on the map; it seemed to be within easy walking distance—not more than two hours off—and, lying somewhat away from the high-road, was not likely to have been much visited, and might therefore be expected to possess a fair assortment of china jugs and embroidered towels.
“take your revolver with you, mamma,” suggested my youngest son, when i told him where i was going.
“nonsense!” i replied; “the map and some sandwiches are all i shall require;” for my experience, which till then had lain entirely in saxon villages, had shown me no ground for such precautions. i do not suppose that the child’s warning had been dictated by any prophetic spirit; more likely he wondered how any one lucky enough to possess such a delightful toy as a real revolver could refuse themselves the pleasure of sporting it on every possible occasion. so, leaving the neat little fire-arm hanging on its customary nail, i started on my walk, accompanied by a young german maid, who, speaking both hungarian and roumanian fluently, was useful as an interpreter.
it was early in october, and a bright sunshiny day; the high-road was crowded with carts and peasants coming to town, for it was market-day; but after we had struck into a path across the fields the way lay solitary before us. the village, which nestled against a bare hill-side, was neither very picturesque nor interesting-looking; and as we drew nearer i saw that it had a somewhat poverty-stricken aspect, which considerably depressed my hopes of ceramic treasures. i had not been aware that this hamlet, formerly a flourishing saxon settlement, had by degrees become flooded by the roumanian element, and that the protestant church, for lack of a congregation, was now usually shut up. many of the people had german names, while speaking the roumanian language and wearing the roumanian dress; and of all the inhabitants four families only still professed the lutheran faith. intermarriage with roumanians, and the total extinction of many saxon families, had been the causes which had thus metamorphosed the national character of the village.
crossing a little bridge over the bed of a partially dried-up stream, we entered the hamlet, where i forthwith began operations, proceeding from house to house. at the very outset i found two pretty specimens of china jugs in a gypsy hovel, but this was a solitary instance of good-luck which had no sequel, for all the other huts could only produce coarse roumanian ware, very much inferior to saxon pottery.
our appearance in the village made a considerable sensation, and at first we were slightly mobbed by all sorts of wild uncouth figures, mostly gypsies; but luckily by degrees the interest wore off, and we were left alone, but for one particularly villanous-looking man who kept following at a little distance. already i had been rather provoked by several attempts to pick my pocket on the part of the gypsies, so was on my guard, when, standing still to reflect where next to go, the villanous-looking individual approached to accost me, and i could see that his eyes were riveted on my gold watch-chain, which imprudently i had left visible outside my jacket. these suspicions were presently strengthened by his asking me what o’clock it was. “look at your own church clock,” i answered, rather shortly, pointing to the tower close at hand; but he gave a roguish grin, and said, “our clock is slow; i wanted to set it right.”
i could not help laughing, though i did not feel quite easy in my mind, and gave him the information he professed to want, but which of course was only an excuse to look at my watch. i now tried to shake him off, but my villanous friend was anxious to improve the acquaintance, and would not leave me without having ascertained who i was, and what i wanted here.
“old china jugs!” he exclaimed, when somewhat weakly i had admitted my errand. “i have got plenty such jugs, if the gracious lady will only condescend to come into my house close by.”
i looked again more narrowly at the face of my villanous friend, and the result of my investigations was to answer with great decision, “thank you, i have got enough china jugs for to-day—quite enough.”
he tried to insist, till i found it expedient to lose my temper, telling him to go about his business and leave me in peace. he did leave me in peace, but only indirectly, for we saw him soon after speaking to a gypsy woman, who presently began to dog our footsteps in the same manner, trying to induce me to go into this or that one of the more disreputable-looking houses.
by this time i was thoroughly tired out. any one who has had like experience will know how fatiguing it is to go into twenty or thirty houses in succession, with the invariable stereotyped questions, “have you any jugs? and will you sell them?” and then to repeat over and over again the self-same process of persuasion and bargaining. besides this, i had risen early, had a long walk, and was very hungry, so naturally wanted a quiet spot to sit down and eat my sandwiches. “there must surely be a village inn where we can get a glass of milk,” i said, turning round to our persistent follower.
“there, there,” said the woman, pointing in advance, and she disappeared running down the street.
we had no difficulty in finding the inn, as indicated by the usual sign all over austria—a bunch of wood-shavings hung over the door-way. i was about to enter the room, when my german servant suddenly drew back and pulled my dress. “come away, come away, madam,” she whispered; “it is not safe to go in there,” and as soon as we had regained the road and shaken ourselves clear of some loungers outside who tried to persuade us to re-enter, she explained the cause of her terror: she had caught sight of that same man who had asked to see the watch hiding behind the pothouse door, and evidently lying in wait for us.
this looked serious, and it was evident that some sort of trap was being laid for my unfortunate watch, so i resolved that nothing in the world should induce me to enter any such suspicious-looking house. my maid was nearly crying with fright by this time, and shaking like an aspen leaf, so i kindly advised her not to be a fool, pointing out that there was really no cause for alarm after all. “we need not enter any house unless we like, and they will hardly think of murdering us in the open street, so do not make a fuss about nothing.”
“it is not for myself, but on account of the gn?dige frau, that i am frightened,” the girl now explained, apparently stung by the insinuation of cowardice. “if anything should happen to you, madam, what will the master say to me when i go home alone? he will say it was all my fault!”
“make your mind quite easy,” i said (perhaps rather cruelly, as it now strikes me). “if they should cut my throat to get the watch, they will for a certainty cut yours as well to prevent you telling tales of them, so you will never reach home to be scolded.”
but the question of what to do was in truth becoming perplexing;{303} rest and food were now secondary considerations, my only thought being how safely to reach home. the long lonely way that separated this village from the town seemed doubly long and desolate in anticipation, and i hardly liked to start from here alone. i now thought with regretful longing of the handy little revolver i had left at home in its russia-leather case. not that i should ever have required to use it, of course, but its appearance alone would have served as antidote to the dangerous fascinations of the gold watch. if i had but followed my boy’s advice i should not have found myself in this awkward predicament.
taking a turn down the road to collect my ideas, a thought struck me. in the course of my peregrinations through the village earlier in the day, i had noted one house where the people appeared more respectable, though in nowise wealthier, than their neighbors. the man had a frank open face, in which i could hardly be mistaken; and, moreover, i had observed a few books lying on a shelf, in itself an unusual circumstance in any roumanian house, which would seem to imply some degree of culture. to this man, therefore, i resolved to go for advice; perhaps he would himself accompany us part of the way, or else provide some other escort who would undertake not to cut our throats between this and hermanstadt.
this plan seemed reasonable; but just as i was about to push open the gate of the little court-yard, the same gypsy woman who had been set on before to follow me came running up: “don’t go in there; there is a terrible bad dog.” she warned so earnestly that for a moment i hesitated with my hand on the latch; for if in the whole world there is a thing which has the power to make my flesh creep and my blood run cold, it is a savage dog, and this woman, with the quickness of her race, had already had occasion to note my weak point. her warning, however, missed its effect, for having been in that courtyard before, i distinctly remembered the absence of any dog whatever, whether good, bad, or indifferent, and her anxiety to prevent me from entering was in itself a sign that there was no danger.
so in i went: the man with the good face was not at home, i was told—he had gone to the field, but would presently return; only his wife, a sweet-faced young woman, and his aged mother, being alone in the house. yes, i might sit down and welcome, said the young woman; and she hastened to bring me a chair and set some fresh{304} milk before me; so i passed half an hour very pleasantly in examining the cottage and its inhabitants.
the young wife was seated at her loom weaving one of the red and blue towels which adorn each roumanian cottage. some of the pillow-cases and towels here hung up were of superior make to those usually seen, being both softer in color and richer in texture. “it is the old mother who made them,” she explained. “she works far better than i can do, but now she is too old, and the weaving fatigues her; she was ninety-five this year.”
“was she in good health?” i asked by means of my interpreter.
“quite good; but she cannot eat much—a little soup and a glass of wine every day is about all she takes.”
“and where is your dog?” was my next inquiry, remembering the gypsy woman’s caution.
“dog?” she asked in surprise. “we never had a dog. what should we keep one for? we are too poor to be afraid of robbers.”
when the husband came back i explained our errand. he smiled a little, and said he thought my fears were groundless. those fellows would hardly dare to attempt any violence in daylight; but after all, it was just possible, he admitted. there certainly were several very bad characters in the village, and no doubt a gold watch was a great temptation; it would certainly be wiser not to start from here alone. after considering a little (apparently it did require consideration), he said that he knew of one respectable man in the village, and would come with us to look for him. i expressed my astonishment at seeing so many books in his house. “i began by being school-master in a neighboring village,” he told me, “but it was only for a short time. then my father died, and i had to return here to look after the fields. that was ten years ago. if i had remained there longer i should know more than i do.” he showed me a volume of general history he was then studying. “i read a little of it every evening when i come back from work. i try to keep myself from forgetting everything—one is apt to get rusty and verbauert (peasantified) living here among peasants.”
the sole other respectable man which the village could produce turning out to be absent, our host expressed his willingness to accompany us as far as i wished, though i knew that he was leaving his work to do so. before quitting the village, however, i had a last encounter with my villanous friend of heretofore, whom i found waiting for me{305} near the little bridge. he begged me so urgently to come in just for one minute to look at his china jugs, which he described in enthusiastic terms, that i gave an unwilling consent. he was apparently surprised and not over-pleased on recognizing my escort, and would have shaken him off on reaching his door, saying, “well, good-by, neighbor; you need not trouble yourself further.”
of course i refused to go into the house alone, and of course, too, when i did go in, the much-vaunted jugs turned out to be cracked and worthless specimens of the very commonest sort of ware, bearing no resemblance to what i was seeking.
i was fairly glad to turn my back on this horrid little village, fully resolved never again to set foot within its precincts; and in conversation with our obliging protector, who spoke very tolerable german (an unusual thing in any roumanian), three-quarters of an hour passed very quickly. he told me much about himself and his family; also about the village, which twice had been burned down within fifteen years and reduced to the most abject poverty; everything of value in the place had perished on the one or other of these occasions. his family life seemed happy, but for one source of grief, for his marriage was childless, and to any roumanian this is a very great grief indeed. “it is sad for us to be alone,” he said; “but god has willed it so.”
in the course of our talk he inquired, but with great delicacy, who i was, saying, “i do not know whether i should say madam or fr?ulein; and perhaps i seem impolite if i am not giving the gracious lady her proper title.” and when i had mentioned the name and position of my husband, i found him to be well informed as to all the military arrangements of the country, correctly naming off-hand all the ten or twelve cavalry stations in transylvania. he recognized our name as being a polish one, and began to talk of that nation. “those poles have sometimes very good heads,” he remarked, “but they do not seem able to manage their own affairs. what a pity they were not able to keep their country together!” after this he inquired much about the state of commerce and agriculture in poland, the influence of the jews, etc., all he said indicating such a mixture of natural refinement and shrewd common-sense that i was quite sorry when, arriving within sight of the high-road, and there being no reason further to tax his good-nature, he took his leave with a bow which would not have disgraced any gentleman.
