from kronstadt we made an excursion to sina?a, a fashionable watering-place and summer residence of the king of roumania, about two hours’ distance over the frontier.
we had provided ourselves with a passport from hermanstadt, for just at that particular moment the regulations about crossing the frontier were rather strict, in consequence of some temporary coolness between the two crowned heads on either side. usually the entente cordiale between both countries is most satisfactory, and austrian officers wishing to pay their respects to his roumanian majesty can always count on a gracious reception; but we happened, unfortunately, to have hit off a brief period of international sulks. austrian officers were forbidden to show themselves in uniform within the kingdom, or, indeed, to cross the frontier at all, and were consequently reduced to the subterfuges of passports and plain clothes.
it ultimately proved to be much easier to cross from hungary to roumania than vice versa; for on our way back that same evening, we were detained an eternity by the suspicious pedantry of the hungarian officials, contrasting unfavorably with the genial simplicity of arrangements on the other side.
the whole route from kronstadt to sina?a is very beautiful, the railway running through a deep valley which sometimes narrows to the dimensions of a close mountain gorge, densely wooded on either side by noble beech forests, bordered by fringes of wild sunflowers, which marked the way in a line of unbroken gold. one might almost have fancied that some munificent fairy had thus chosen to show the way to the king’s abode, by strewing gold-pieces along the road.
the glimpses of peasant life we got by looking out of the carriage-window already showed us costumes more varied and fantastic than on the hungarian side; an air of eastern luxury as well as of eastern indolence pervaded everything, and it was impossible not to feel that we had entered another country—the land beyond the land beyond the forest.
at sina?a itself the valley has somewhat widened out, affording room for numerous handsome villas and luxurious hotels which have sprung up there of late years. on a low hill stands the convent where the royal family have taken up their residence till the new-built castle is ready to be inhabited.
castle pelesch at sina?a. summer residence of the king of roumania.
proceeding on our way towards the convent, we were puzzled for a moment by the appearance of the peasant women we met—their surprising richness of costume and profusion of ornament surpassing the limits of even roumanian gorgeousness. their straight-cut scarlet aprons were literally one mass of rich embroidery, and each movement{361} of the arm caused the sleeve to glitter in the sun like the scales of gold and silver fish; but why, in place of the customary sandals, did they wear delicate high-heeled chaussure strongly suggestive of paris? why, instead of the twirling distaff, did we see japanese fans in their hands? and why, oh why, as we came within ear-shot, did we make the startling discovery that they were not talking roumanian at all, but speaking french with more or less successful imitations of a parisian accent?
these various “whys” were soon put to rest by the information that these were not peasants at all, but roumanian court ladies, who, following the example of their queen, adopt the national dress for daily wear during the summer months.
it being sunday, mass had just finished as we reached the convent, whence a motley congregation of officers and ladies, soldiers, peasants, and monks came pouring out. a sentry walking up and down in a somewhat nonchalant manner, as though merely taking a mild constitutional, and a red-and-blue flag waving above the low roof of the old-fashioned, shabby building, were the only symptoms of royalty about the place.
presently a low basket-carriage, drawn by two handsome cream ponies with distressingly long tails and ill-cut manes, came round to the convent door, close to where we were standing, and was entered by a slender lady attired in the national costume, bareheaded, and holding up a chinese parasol to protect herself from the broiling sun. she appeared to be on easy, cordial terms with the respectable-looking family servant who assisted her to get in, and had quite a pleasant chat with him as he stood on the door-step. it was evident, from the way she was saluted on her passage, that the queen is a great favorite with people of all classes.
the king, whom we came across a little later in the day, seemed of more unapproachable species, and the little incident connected with his appearance savored rather of russian than of roumanian etiquette.
we were walking in the direction of the newly built castle, which, situated on the banks of a torrent at the opening of a steep mountain ravine, and deliciously shrouded in gigantic trees, is the most perfect beau-ideal of a summer chateau i ever saw. already i had had occasion to remark the appearance of several semi-military-looking beings (whether policemen or soldiers i cannot precisely define) dodging about mysteriously in and out between the tree-stems, when suddenly{362} one of them came rushing towards us, waving his arms aloft like a windmill gone mad, and with an expression of the wildest despair hurriedly repeating something we failed to understand, but which evidently was either a warning or a threat. before we had time to request this curious being to explain himself more intelligibly, he had disappeared, jumping over the steep, precipitous bank of the ravine, and vanishing in the brushwood.
we now looked round in alarm, half expecting to see a furious wild-boar, possibly even a bear, appearing from the mountain-side, but could only perceive a tall, dark, handsome officer approaching us, and behind him a correct-liveried servant carrying a railway rug. the meaning of the mysterious warning now began to dawn on our comprehension; this could only be the king, from his resemblance to the portraits we had seen, and we had probably no business to be here prying on his private premises. our feeling of tact was, however, not exquisite enough to induce us to risk our necks in endeavoring to conceal ourselves from his august gaze, so we bravely stood our ground, and nothing worse happened than our bow being very politely returned.
when his majesty had disappeared i went to the bank to see what had become of the unfortunate soldier or policeman who had effaced himself in so foolhardy a manner; but though i half expected to see his corpse lying shattered at the foot of the rock, no trace of him was there to be seen.
the castle, now completed, and since 1884 inhabited every summer by the royal family, is built in the old german style, and has, i hear, been fitted up and furnished in most exquisite fashion—each article having been carefully selected by the queen herself, whose artistic taste is well known. deeper in the forest, at a little distance from the castle, is a tiny hunting-lodge, where in the hot weather the queen is wont to spend a great part of the day. it is here that she loves to sit composing those graceful poems in which she endeavors to reflect the spirit and heart of her people; and visitors admitted to this royal sanctuary are sometimes fortunate enough to see the latest rough-cast of a poem, bearing the signature of carmen sylva, lying open on the writing-table.
the villas about sina?a are rather bare-looking as yet, especially on a burning summer day; for parks and gardens have not had time to grow in proportion to the hot-headed mushroom speed with which{363} this whole colony has sprung into existence. the bathing establishment is one of the most delightful i ever saw—a large marble basin, roofed in and lighted from above, framed with a luxuriant fringe of feathery ferns and aquatic plants trailing down on to the surface of an exceptionally clear and crystal-like water. when the queen comes hither to bathe the walls are further adorned by hangings of oriental carpets and embroidered draperies.
there are in the place several good restaurants whose cookery might rival any vienna or paris establishment, and, for prices, indeed surpass them. everything we found to be very dear at sina?a. as we were returning to kronstadt in the evening and intended to walk about all day, we did not engage a bedroom at the hotel, but merely asked for some place where we might deposit our wraps and umbrellas. for this purpose we were given a sort of small closet, semi-dark, being only lighted from the staircase, and containing, besides a broken table, but two deal chairs and an unfurnished bedstead. yet for this luxurious accommodation, which our effects enjoyed during a period of about eight hours, we were charged the modest sum of fifteen francs.
i spent some time at a very fascinating bazaar, where i purchased a few specimens of roumanian pottery, dainty little red-and-gold cups for black coffee, some grotesque birds, and an impossible dog, which have somewhat the appearance of ancient heathen household gods. there were also carpets for sale, but mostly over-staring in pattern, and of terrifically high prices.
we had brought with us a letter of introduction to a ci-devant austrian officer settled here, and married to a daughter of prince g——, one of the principal notabilities of the place, which introduction procured us a very pleasant invitation to dine with his family on the terrace overlooking the public gardens.
our beautiful dark-eyed hostess, whose graceful élancée figure seemed made to show off to perfection all the fascinations of the national costume, was kind enough to dress expressly for my benefit before dinner, putting on a profusion of jewellery to heighten the effect of robes fit for lalla rookh or princess scheherezade. one can hardly wear too much jewellery with this attire: three jewelled belts, one adorned with turquoises, another with garnets, and a third with pearls and emeralds, were disposed across the hips one above the other, like those worn in old venetian paintings; several necklaces,{364} forming a bewildering cascade of coral and amber over the bosom; a perfect wealth of bracelets; and more jewelled pins than i was able to count held back a transparent veil, further secured by loose golden coins falling low on the forehead.
her father, prince g——, gave us some interesting details about the foundation of this promising colony, which is the only establishment of the sort in the kingdom. he himself was the principal moving spirit in its foundation, and it was owing to his persuasions chiefly that the king formed the resolution of founding a national watering-place, which, by becoming the resort of the roumanian noblesse, would keep them at home, instead of spending their money at french or german baths.
gladly would i have prolonged my stay in roumania by some days, or even weeks; and it was tantalizing to have to leave these attractive unknown regions after such a cursory glance. still more so was it to be obliged to refuse a friendly invitation to return there to join a projected expedition of eight to ten days across the mountains, to be organized as soon as the weather had grown cooler. it was to be a large cavalcade—about twenty persons in all—the ladies in roumanian dress and riding in men’s saddles. “perhaps it is because of this you refuse,” said my hostess. “i have heard that you english are always so very particular; but here everybody rides so—even the queen herself has no other saddle.”
i had, alas! no opportunity to correct this impression, by showing that an englishwoman may be as enterprising as a roumanian queen.
