easy-going austria—vienna—charm of town—a little piece of history—-international families—family pride—"schlüssel-geld"—excellence of vienna restaurants—the origin of "croissants"—good looks of viennese women—strauss's operettas—a ball in an old vienna house—court entertainments—the empress elisabeth—delightful environs of vienna—the berlin congress of 1878—lord beaconsfield—m. de blowitz—treaty telegraphed to london—environs of berlin—potsdam and its lakes—the bow-oar of the embassy "four"—narrow escape of ex-kaiser—the potsdam palaces—transfer to petrograd—glamour of russia—an evening with the crown prince at potsdam.
our embassy at vienna was greatly overworked at this time, owing to the illness of two of the staff, and some fresh developments of the perennial "eastern question." i was accordingly "lent" to the vienna embassy for as long as was necessary, and left at once for the austrian capital.
at the frontier station of tetschen the transition from cast-iron, dictatorial, overbearing prussian efficiency to the good-natured, easy-going, slipshod methods of the "ramshackle empire" was immediately apparent.
the change from berlin to vienna was refreshing. the straight, monotonous, well-kept streets of the northern capital lacked life and animation. it was a very fine frame enclosing no picture. the vienna
{49}
streets were as gay as those of paris, and one was conscious of being in a city with centuries of traditions. the inner town of vienna with its narrow winding streets is extraordinarily picturesque. the demolisher has not been given the free hand he has been allowed in paris, and the fine baroque houses still remaining give an air of great distinction to this part of the town, with its many highly-decorative, if somewhat florid, fountains and columns. one was no longer in the "pushful" atmosphere of prussia. these cheery, easy-going viennese loved music and dancing, eating and drinking, laughter and fun. they were quite content to drift lazily down the stream of life, with as much enjoyment and as little trouble as possible. they might be a decadent race, but they were essentially gemüthliche leute. the untranslatable epithet gemüthlich implies something at once "comfortable," "sociable," "cosy," and "pleasant."
the austrian aristocracy were most charming people. they had all intermarried for centuries, and if they did not trouble their intellect much, there may have been physical difficulties connected with the process for which they were not responsible. the degree of warmth of their reception of foreigners was largely dependent upon whether he, or she, could show the indispensable sechzehn ahnen (the "sixteen quarterings"). once satisfied (or the reverse) as to this point, to which they attach immense importance, the situation became easier. as the whole of these people were interrelated, they
{50}
were all on christian names terms, and the various "mitzis," "kitzis," "fritzis," and other characteristically austrian abbreviations were a little difficult to place at times.
it was impossible not to realise that the whole nation was living on the traditions of their splendid past. it must be remembered that in the sixteenth century the hapsburgs ruled the whole of europe with the exception of france, england, russia, and the scandinavian countries. for centuries after charlemagne assumed the imperial crown there had been only one emperor in europe, the "holy roman emperor," the "heiliger römischer kaiser," the fiction being, of course, that he was the descendant of the cæsars. the word "kaiser" is only the german variant of cæsar. france and england had always consistently refused to acknowledge the overlordship of the emperor, but the prestige of the title in german-speaking lands was immense, though the holy roman empire itself was a mere simulacrum of power. in theory the emperor was elected; in practice the title came to be a hereditary appanage of the proud hapsburgs. it was, i think, talleyrand who said "l'autrice a la fächeuse habitude d'être toujours battue," and this was absolutely true. austria was defeated with unfailing regularity in almost every campaign, and the hapsburgs saw their immense dominions gradually slipping from their grasp. it was on may 14, 1804, that napoleon was crowned emperor of the french in paris, and francis ii, the last of
{51}
the holy roman emperors, was fully aware that napoleon's next move would be to supplant him and get himself elected as "roman emperor." this napoleon would have been able to achieve, as he had bribed the electors of bavaria, württemberg, and saxony by creating them kings. for once a hapsburg acted with promptitude. on august 11, 1804, francis proclaimed himself hereditary emperor of austria, and two years later he abolished the title of holy roman emperor. the empire, after a thousand years of existence, flickered out ingloriously in 1806. the pride of the hapsburgs had received a hundred years previously a rude shock. peter the great, after consolidating russia, abolished the title of tsar of muscovy, and proclaimed himself emperor of all the russias; purposely using the same term "imperator" as that employed by the roman emperor, and thus putting himself on an equality with him.
i know by experience that it is impossible to din into the heads of those unfamiliar with russia that since peter the great's time there has never been a tsar. the words "tsar," "tsarina," "cesarevitch," beloved of journalists, exist only in their imagination; they are never heard in russia. the russians termed their emperor "gosudar imperator," using either or both of the words. empress is "imperatritza"; heir apparent "nadslyédnik." if you mentioned the words "tsar" or "tsarina" to any ordinary russian peasant, i doubt if he would understand you, but i am well
{52}
aware that it is no use repeating this, the other idea is too firmly ingrained. the hapsburgs had yet another bitter pill to swallow. down to the middle of the nineteenth century the ancient prestige of the title kaiser and the glamour attached to it were maintained throughout the germanic confederation, but in 1871 a second brand-new kaiser arose on the banks of the spree, and the hapsburgs were shorn of their long monopoly.
franz josef of austria must have rued the day when sigismund sold the sandy mark of brandenburg to frederick count of hohenzollern in 1415, and regretted the acquiescence in 1701 of his direct ancestor, the emperor leopold i, in the elector of brandenburg's request that he might assume the title of king of prussia. the hohenzollerns were ever a grasping race. i think that it was louis xiv of france who, whilst officially recognising the new king of prussia, refused to speak of him as such, and always alluded to him as "monsieur le marquis de brandenbourg."
no wonder that the feeling of bitterness against prussia amongst the upper classes of austria was very acute in the "'seventies." the events of 1866 were still too recent to have been forgotten. in my time the great austrian ladies affected the broadest vienna popular dialect, probably to emphasise the fact that they were not prussians. thus the sentence "ein glas wasser, bitte," became, written in phonetic english, "a' glawss vawsser beet." i myself was much rallied on my pedantic
{53}
north-german pronunciation, and had in self-defence to adopt unfamiliar austrian equivalents for many words.
the curious international families which seemed to abound in vienna always puzzled me. thus the princes d'aremberg are belgians, but there was one prince d'aremberg in the austrian service, whilst his brother was in the prussian diplomatic service, the remainder of the family being belgians. there were, in the same way, many german-speaking pourtales in berlin in the german service, and more french-speaking ones in paris in the french service. the duc de croy was both a belgian and an austrian subject. the croys are one of the oldest families in europe, and are ebenbürtig ("born on an equality") with all the german royalties. they therefore show no signs of respect to archdukes and archduchesses when they meet them. although i cannot vouch personally for them, never having myself seen them, i am told that there are two pictures in the croy palace at brussels which reach the apogee of family pride. the first depicts noah embarking on his ark. although presumably anxious about the comfort of the extensive live-stock he has on board, noah finds time to give a few parting instructions to his sons. on what is technically called a "bladder" issuing from his mouth are the words, "and whatever you do, don't forget to bring with you the family papers of the croys." ("et surtout ayez soin de ne pas oublier les papiers de la maison de croy!") the
{54}
other picture represents the madonna and child, with the then duke of croy kneeling in adoration before them. out of the virgin mary's mouth comes a "bladder" with the words "but please put on your hat, dear cousin." ("mais couvrez vous donc, cher cousin.")
the whole of viennese life is regulated by one exceedingly tiresome custom. after 10 or 10.15 p.m. the hall porter (known in vienna as the "house-master") of every house in the city has the right of levying a small toll of threepence on each person entering or leaving the house. the whole life of the vienna bourgeois is spent in trying to escape this tax, known as "schlüssel-geld." the theatres commence accordingly at 6 p.m. or 6.30, which entails dining about 5 p.m. a typical viennese middle-class family will hurry out in the middle of the last act and scurry home breathlessly, as the fatal hour approaches. arrived safely in their flat, in the last stages of exhaustion, they say triumphantly to each other. "we have missed the end of the play, and we are rather out of breath, but never mind, we have escaped the 'schlüssel-geld,' and as we are four, that makes a whole shilling saved!"
an equally irritating custom is the one that ordains that in restaurants three waiters must be tipped in certain fixed proportions. the "piccolo," who brings the wine and bread, receives one quarter of the tip; the "speisetrager," who brings the actual food, gets one half; the "zahlkellner,"
{55}
who brings the bill, gets one quarter. all these must be given separately, so not only does it entail a hideous amount of mental arithmetic, but it also necessitates the perpetual carrying about of pocketfuls of small change.
the vienna restaurants were quite excellent, with a local cuisine of extraordinary succulence, and more extraordinary names. a universal austrian custom, not only in restaurants but in private houses as well, is to serve a glass of the delicious light vienna beer with the soup. even at state dinners at the hof-burg, a glass of beer was always offered with the soup. the red wine, voslauer, grown in the immediate vicinity of the city, is so good, and has such a distinctive flavour, that i wonder it has never been exported. the restaurants naturally suggest the matchless viennese orchestras. they were a source of never-ending delight to me. the distinction they manage to give to quite commonplace little airs is extraordinary. the popular songs, "wiener-couplets," melodious, airy nothings, little light soap-bubbles of tunes, are one of the distinctive features of vienna. played by an austrian band as only an austrian band can play them, with astonishing vim and fire, and supremely dainty execution, these little fragile melodies are quite charming and irresistibly attractive. we live in a progressive age. in the place of these austrian bands with their finished execution and consummately musicianly feeling, the twentieth century
{56}
has invented the jazz band with its ear-splitting, chaotic din.
there is a place in vienna known as the heiden-schuss, or "shooting of the heathens." the origin of this is quite interesting.
in 1683 the turks invaded hungary, and, completely overrunning the country, reached vienna, to which they laid siege, for the second time in its history. incidentally, they nearly succeeded in capturing it. during the siege bakers' apprentices were at work one night in underground bakehouses, preparing the bread for next day's consumption. the lads heard a rhythmic "thump, thump, thump," and were much puzzled by it. two of the apprentices, more intelligent than the rest, guessed that the turks were driving a mine, and ran off to the commandant of vienna with their news. they saw the principal engineer officer and told him of their discovery. he accompanied them back to the underground bakehouse, and at once determined that the boys were right. having got the direction from the sound, the austrians drove a second tunnel, and exploded a powerful counter-mine. great numbers of turks were killed, and the siege was temporarily raised. on september 12 of the same year (1683) john sobieski, king of poland, utterly routed the turks, drove them back into their own country, and vienna was saved. as a reward for the intelligence shown by the baker-boys, they were granted the privilege of making and selling a rich kind of roll (into the
{57}
composition of which butter entered largely) in the shape of the turkish emblem, the crescent. these rolls became enormously popular amongst the viennese, who called them kipfeln. when marie antoinette married louis xvi of france, she missed her kipfel, and sent to vienna for an austrian baker to teach his paris confrères the art of making them. these rolls, which retained their original shape, became as popular in paris as they had been in vienna, and were known as croissants, and that is the reason why one of the rolls which are brought you with your morning coffee in paris will be baked in the form of a crescent.
the extraordinary number of good-looking women, of all classes to be seen in the streets of vienna was most striking, especially after berlin, where a lower standard of feminine beauty prevailed. particularly noticeable were the admirable figures with which most austrian women are endowed. in the far-off "'seventies" ladies did not huddle themselves into a shapeless mass of abbreviated oddments of material—they dressed, and their clothes fitted them; and a woman on whom nature (or art) had bestowed a good figure was able to display her gifts to the world. in the same way, fashion did not compel a pretty girl to smother up her features in unbecoming tangles of tortured hair. the usual fault of austrian faces is their breadth across the cheek-bones; the viennese too have a decided tendency
{58}
to embonpoint, but in youth these defects are not accentuated. amongst the austrian aristocracy the great beauty of the girls was very noticeable, as was their height, in marked contrast to the short stature of most of the men. i have always heard that one of the first outward signs of the decadence of a race is that the girls grow taller, whilst the men get shorter.
the vienna theatres are justly celebrated. at the hof-burg theatre may be seen the most finished acting on the german stage. the burg varied its programme almost nightly, and it was an amusing sight to see the troops of liveried footmen inquiring at the box-office, on behalf of their mistresses, whether the play to be given that night was or was not a comtessen-stück, i.e., a play fit for young girls to see. the box-keeper always gave a plain "yes" or "no" in reply. after charles garnier's super-ornate pile in paris, the vienna opera-house is the finest in europe, and the musical standard reaches the highest possible level, completely eclipsing paris in that respect. in the "'seventies" johann strauss's delightful comic operas still retained their vogue. bubbling over with merriment, full of delicious ear-tickling melodies, and with a "go" and an irresistible intoxication about them that no french composer has ever succeeded in emulating, these operettas, "die fledermaus," "prinz methusalem," and "la reine indigo," would well stand revival. when the "fledermaus"
{59}
was revived in london some ten years ago it ran, if my memory serves me right, for nearly a year. occasionally strauss himself conducted one of his own operettas; then the orchestra, responding to his magical baton, played like very demons. strauss had one peculiarity. should he be dissatisfied with the vim the orchestra put into one of his favourite numbers, he would snatch the instrument from the first violin and play it himself. then the orchestra answered like one man, and one left the theatre with the entrancing strains still tingling in one's ears.
the family houses of most of the austrian nobility were in the inner town, the old walled city, where space was very limited. these fine old houses, built for the greater part in the italian baroque style, though splendid for entertaining, were almost pitch dark and very airless in the daytime. judging, too, from the awful smells in them, they must have been singularly insanitary dwellings. the lobkowitz palace, afterwards the french embassy, was so dark by day that artificial light had always to be used. in the great seventeenth century ball-room of the lobkowitz palace there was a railed off oak-panelled alcove containing a bust of beethoven, an oak table, and three chairs. it was in that alcove, and at that table, that beethoven, when librarian to prince lobkowitz, composed some of his greatest works.
our own embassy in the metternichgasse, built
{60}
by the british government, was rather cramped and could in no way compare with the berlin house.
i remember well a ball given by prince s——, head of one of the greatest austrian families, in his fine but extremely dark house in the inner town. it was prince s——'s custom on these occasions to have three hundred young peasants sent up from his country estates, and to have them all thrust into the family livery. these bucolic youths, looking very sheepish in their unfamiliar plush breeches and stockings, with their unkempt heads powdered, and with swords at their sides, stood motionless on every step of the staircase. i counted one hundred of these rustic retainers on the staircase alone. they would have looked better had their liveries occasionally fitted them. the ball-room at prince s——'s was hung with splendid brussels seventeenth century tapestry framed in mahogany panels, heavily carved and gilt. i have never seen this combination of mahogany, gilding, and tapestry anywhere else. it was wonderfully decorative, and with the elaborate painted ceiling made a fine setting for an entertainment. it was a real pleasure to see how whole-heartedly the austrians threw themselves into the dancing. i think they all managed to retain a child's power of enjoyment, and they never detracted from this by any unnecessary brainwork. still they were delightfully friendly, easy-going people. a distinctive feature of every vienna ball
{61}
was the "comtessen-zimmer," or room reserved for girls. at the end of every dance they all trooped in there, giggling and gossiping, and remained there till the music for the next dance struck up. no married woman dared intrude into the "comtessen-zimmer," and i shudder to think of what would have befallen the rash male who ventured to cross that jealously-guarded threshold. i imagine that the charming and beautifully-dressed austrian married women welcomed this custom, for between the dances at all events they could still hold the field, free from the competition of a younger and fresher generation.
at prince s——'s, at midnight, armies of rustic retainers, in their temporary disguise, brought battalions of supper tables into the ball-room, and all the guests sat down to a hot supper at the same time. as an instance of how austrians blended simplicity with a great love of externals, i see from my diary that the supper consisted of bouillon, of plain-boiled carp with horse-radish, of thick slices of hot roast beef, and a lemon ice—and nothing else whatever. a sufficiently substantial repast, but hardly in accordance with modern ideas as to what a ball-supper should consist of. the young peasants, considering that it was their first attempt at waiting, did not break an undue number of plates; they tripped at times, though, over their unaccustomed swords, and gaped vacantly, or would get hitched up with each other, when more dishes crashed to their doom.
{62}
in vienna there was a great distinction drawn between a "court ball" (hof-ball) and a "ball at the court" (ball bei hof). to the former everyone on the palace list was invited, to the latter only a few people; and the one was just as crowded and disagreeable as the other was the reverse. the great rambling pile of the hof-burg contains some very fine rooms and a marvellous collection of works of art, and the so-called "ceremonial apartments" are of quite imperial magnificence, but the general effect was far less striking than in berlin.
in spite of the beauty of the women, the coup d'oeil was spoilt by the ugly austrian uniforms. after the disastrous campaign of 1866, the traditional white of the austrian army was abolished, and the uniforms were shorn of all unnecessary trappings. the military tailors had evolved hideous garments, ugly in colour, unbecoming in cut. one can only trust that they proved very economical, but the contrast with the splendid and admirably made uniforms of the prussian army was very marked. the hungarian magnates in their traditional family costumes (from which all hussar uniforms are derived) added a note of gorgeous colour, with their gold-laced tunics and their many-hued velvet slung-jackets. i remember, on the occasion of queen victoria's jubilee in 1887, the astonishment caused by a youthful and exceedingly good-looking hungarian who appeared at buckingham palace in skin-tight blue breeches
{63}
lavishly embroidered with gold over the thighs, entirely gilt hessian boots to the knee, and a tight-fitting tunic cut out of a real tiger-skin, fastened with some two dozen turquoise buttons the size of five-shilling pieces. when this resplendent youth reappeared in london ten years later at the diamond jubilee, it was with a tonsured head, and he was wearing the violet robes of a prelate of the roman church.
as an instance of the inflexibility of the cast-iron rules of the hapsburg court: i may mention that the beautiful countess karolyi, austrian ambassadress in berlin, was never asked to court in vienna, as she lacked the necessary "sixteen quarterings." to a non-austrian mind it seems illogical that the lovely lady representing austria in berlin should have been thought unfitted for an invitation from her own sovereign.
the immense deference paid to the austrian archdukes and archduchesses was very striking after the comparatively unceremonious fashion in which minor german royalties (always excepting the emperor and the crown prince) were treated in berlin. the archduchesses especially were very tenacious of their privileges. they never could forget that they were hapsburgs, and exacted all the traditional signs of respect.
the unfortunate empress elisabeth, destined years after to fall under the dagger of an assassin at geneva, made but seldom a public appearance in her husband's dominions. she had an almost
{64}
morbid horror of fulfilling any of the duties of her position. during my stay in the austrian capital i only caught one glimpse of her, driving through the streets. she was astonishingly handsome, with coiled masses of dark hair, and a very youthful and graceful figure, but the face was so impassive that it produced the effect of a beautiful, listless mask. the empress was a superb horse-woman, and every single time she rode she was literally sewn into her habit by a tailor, in order to ensure a perfect fit.
the innumerable cafés of vienna were crowded from morning to night. seeing them crammed with men in the forenoon, one naturally wondered how the business of the city was transacted. probably, in typical austrian fashion, these worthy viennese left their businesses to take care of themselves whilst they enjoyed themselves in the cafés. the super-excellence of the vienna coffee would afford a more or less legitimate excuse for this. nowhere in the world is such coffee made, and a "capuziner," or a "melange," the latter with thick whipped cream on the top of it, were indeed things of joy.
few capitals are more fortunate in their environs than vienna. the beautiful gardens and park of schönbrunn palace have a sort of intimate charm which is wholly lacking at versailles. they are stately, yet do not overwhelm you with a sense of vast spaces. they are crowned by a sort of temple, known as the gloriette,
{65}
from which a splendid view is obtained.
in less than three hours from the capital, the railway climbs 3,000 feet to the semmering, where the mountain scenery is really grand. during the summer months the whole of vienna empties itself on to the semmering and the innumerable other hill-resorts within easy distance from the city.
when the time came for my departure, i felt genuinely sorry at leaving this merry, careless, music and laughter-loving town, and these genial, friendly, hospitable incompetents. i feel some compunction in using this word, as people had been very good to me. i cannot help feeling, though, that it is amply warranted. a bracing climate is doubtless wholesome; but a relaxing one can be very pleasant for a time. i went back to berlin feeling like a boy returning to school after his holidays.
the viennese had but little love for their upstart rival on the spree. they had invented the name "parvenupopolis" for berlin, and a little popular song, which i may be forgiven for quoting in the original german, expressed their sentiments fairly accurately:
es gibt nur eine kaiserstadt,
es gibt nur ein wien;
es gibt nur ein raubernest,
und das heisst berlin.
i had a bavarian friend in berlin. we talked over the amazing difference in temperament there
{66}
was between the austrians and the prussians, and the curious charm there was about the former, lacking in intellect though they might be, a charm wholly lacking in the pushful, practical prussians. my friend agreed, but claimed the same attractive qualities for his own beloved bavarians; "but," he added impressively, "mark my words, in twenty years from now the whole of germany will be prussianised!" ("ganz deutschland wird verpreussert werden") events have shown how absolutely correct my bavarian friend was in his forecast.
in june, 1878, the great congress for the settlement of the terms of peace between russia and turkey assembled in berlin. it was an extraordinarily interesting occasion, for almost every single european notability was to be seen in the german capital. the russian plenipotentiaries were the veteran prince gortchakoff and count peter schouvaloff, that most genial faux-bonhomme; the turks were championed by ali pasha and by katheodory pasha. great britain was represented by lords beaconsfield and salisbury; austria by count andrassy, the prime minister; france by m. waddington. in spite of the very large staff brought out from london by the british plenipotentiaries, an enormous amount of work fell upon us at the embassy.
to a youngster there is something very fascinating in being regarded as so worthy of confidence that the most secret details of the great game of diplomacy were all known to him from
{67}
day to day. a boy of twenty-one feels very proud of the trust reposed in him, and at being the repository of such weighty and important secrets. that is the traditional method of the british diplomatic service.
as all the embassies gave receptions in honour of their own plenipotentiaries, we met almost nightly all the great men of europe, and had occasional opportunities for a few words with them. prince gortchakoff, who fancied himself bismarck's only rival, was a little, short, tubby man in spectacles; wholly undistinguished in appearance, and looking for all the world like an average french provincial notaire. count andrassy, the hungarian, was a tall, strikingly handsome man, with an immense head of hair. to me, he always recalled the leader of a "tzigane" orchestra. m. waddington talked english like an englishman, and was so typically british in appearance that it was almost impossible to realise that he was a frenchman. our admiration for him was increased when we learnt that he had rowed in the cambridge eight. but without any question whatever, the personality which excited the greatest interest at the berlin congress was that of lord beaconsfield, the jew who by sheer force of intellect had raised himself from nothing into his present commanding position. his peculiar, colourless, inscrutable face, with its sphinx-like impassiveness; the air of mystery which somehow clung about him; the romantic story of his career; even the remnants of
{68}
dandyism which he still retained in his old age—all these seemed to whet the insatiable public curiosity about him. some enterprising berlin tradesmen had brought out fans, with leaves composed of plain white vellum, designed expressly for the congress. armed with one of these fans, and with pen and ink, indefatigable feminine autograph-hunters moved about at these evening receptions, securing the signatures of the plenipotentiaries on the white vellum leaves. many of those fans must still be in existence, and should prove very interesting to-day. bismarck alone invariably refused his autograph.
at all these gatherings, m. de blowitz, the then paris correspondent of the times, was much to the fore. in the "'seventies" the prestige of the times on the continent of europe was enormous. in reality the influence of the times was very much overrated, since all continentals persisted in regarding it as the inspired mouthpiece of the british government. great was the times, but greater still was de blowitz, its prophet. this most remarkable man was a veritable prince of newspaper correspondents. there was no move on the european chess-board of which he was not cognisant, and as to which he did not keep his paper well informed, and his information was always accurate. de blowitz knew no english, and his lengthy daily telegrams to the times were always written in french and were translated in london. he was really a bohemian jew of the name of
{69}
oppen, and he had bestowed the higher-sounding name of de blowitz on himself. he was a very short, fat little man, with immensely long grey side-whiskers, and a most consequential manner. he was a very great personage indeed in official circles. de blowitz has in his memoirs given a full account of the trick by which he learnt of the daily proceedings of the congress and so transmitted them to his paper. i need not, therefore, go into details about this; it is enough to say that a daily exchange of hats, in the lining of the second of which a summary of the day's deliberations was concealed, played a great part in it.
when the treaty had been drawn up in french, lord salisbury rather startled us by saying that he wished it translated into english and cyphered to london that very evening in extenso. this was done to obviate the possibility of the news-paper correspondents getting a version of the treaty through to london before the british government had received the actual text. as the treaty was what i, in the light of later experiences, would now describe as of fifteen thousand words length, this was a sufficiently formidable undertaking. fifteen of us sat down to the task about 6 p.m., and by working at high pressure we got the translation finished and the last cyphered sheet sent off to the telegraph office by 5 a.m. the translation done at such breakneck speed was possibly a little crude in places. one clause in the treaty provided that ships in ballast were to have
{70}
free passage through the dardanelles. now the french for "ships in ballast," is "navires en lest." the person translating this (who was not a member of the british diplomatic service) rendered "navires en lest" as "ships in the east," and in this form it was cyphered to london. as, owing to the geographical position of the dardanelles, any ship approaching them would be, in one sense of the term, a "ship in the east," there was considerable perturbation in downing street over this clause, until the mistake was discovered.
berlin has wonderful natural advantages, considering that it is situated in a featureless, sandy plain. in my day it was quite possible to walk from the embassy into a real, wild pine-forest, the grünewald. the grünewald, being a royal forest, was unbuilt on, and quite unspoilt. it extended for miles, enclosing many pretty little lakelets. now i understand that it has been invaded by "villa colonies," so its old charm of wildness must have vanished. the tiergarten, too, the park of berlin, retains in places the look of a real country wood. it is inadvisable to venture into the tiergarten after nightfall, should you wish to retain possession of your watch, purse, and other portable property. the sandy nature of the soil makes it excellent for riding. within quite a short distance of the city you can find tracts of heathery moor, and can get a good gallop almost anywhere.
there is quite fair partridge-shooting, too, within
{71}
a few miles of berlin, in the immense potato fields, though the entire absence of cover in this hedgeless land makes it very difficult at times to approach the birds. it is pre-eminently a country for "driving" partridges, though most germans prefer the comparatively easy shots afforded by "walking the birds up."
potsdam has had but scant justice done it by foreigners. the town is almost surrounded by the river havel, which here broadens out into a series of winding, wooded lakes, surrounded by tree-clad hills. the potsdam lakes are really charmingly pretty, and afford an admirable place for rowing or sailing. neither of these pursuits seems to make the least appeal to germans. the embassy kept a small yacht at potsdam, but she was practically the only craft then on the lakes. as on all narrow waters enclosed by wooded hills, the sailing was very tricky, owing to the constant shifting of the wind. should it be blowing fresh, it was advisable to sail under very light canvas; and it was always dangerous to haul up the centre-board, even when "running," as on rounding some wooded point you would get "taken aback" to a certainty. once in the fine open stretch of water between wansee and spandau, you could hoist every stitch of canvas available, and indulge with impunity in the most complicated nautical manoeuvres. possibly my extreme fondness for the potsdam lakes may be due to their extraordinary resemblance to the lakes at my own northern country home.
{72}
the embassy also owned a light thames-built four-oar. at times a short, thick-set young man of nineteen pulled bow in our four. the short young man had a withered arm, and the doctors hoped that the exercise of rowing might put some strength into it. he seemed quite a commonplace young man, yet this short, thick-set youth was destined less than forty years after to plunge the world into the greatest calamity it has ever known; to sacrifice millions and millions of human lives to his own inordinate ambition; and to descend to posterity as one of the most sinister characters in the pages of history.
moored in the "jungfernsee," one of the potsdam lakes, lay a miniature sailing frigate, a complete model of a larger craft down to the smallest details. this toy frigate had been a present from king william iv of england to the then king of prussia. the little frigate had been built in london, and though of only 30-tons burden, had been sailed down the thames, across the north sea, and up the elbe and havel to potsdam, by a british naval officer. a pretty bit of seamanship! i have always heard that it was the sight of this toy frigate, lying on the placid lake at potsdam, that first inspired william of hohenzollern with the idea of building a gigantic navy.
the whole history of the world might have been changed by an incident which occurred on these same potsdam lakes in 1880. i have already said that william of hohenzollern, then only prince
{73}
william, pulled at times in our embassy four, in the hope that it might strengthen his withered arm. he was very anxious to see if he could learn to scull, in spite of his physical defect, and asked the ambassadress, lady ampthill, whether she would herself undertake to coach him. lady ampthill consented, and met prince william next day at the landing-stage with a light thames-built skiff, belonging to the embassy. lady ampthill, with the caution of one used to light boats, got in carefully, made her way aft, and grasped the yoke-lines. she then explained to prince william that this was not a heavy boat such as he had been accustomed to, that he must exercise extreme care, and in getting in must tread exactly in the centre of the boat. william of hohenzollern, who had never taken advice from anyone in his life, and was always convinced that he himself knew best, responded by jumping into the boat from the landing-stage, capsizing it immediately, and throwing himself and lady ampthill into the water. prince william, owing to his malformation, was unable to swim one stroke, but help was at hand. two of the secretaries of the british embassy had witnessed the accident, and rushed up to aid. the so-called "naval station" was close by, where the emperor's potsdam yacht lay, a most singularly shabby old paddle-boat. some german sailors from the "naval post" heard the shouting and ran up, and a moist, and we will trust a chastened william and a dripping ambassadress were
{74}
eventually rescued from the lake. otherwise william of hohenzollern might have ended his life in the "jungfernsee" at potsdam that day, and millions of other men would have been permitted to live out their allotted span of existence.
potsdam itself is quite a pleasing town, with a half-dutch, half-italian physiognomy. both were deliberately borrowed; the first by frederick william i, who constructed the tree-lined canals which give potsdam its half-batavian aspect; the second by frederick the great, who fronted teutonic dwellings with façades copied from italy to add dignity to the town. it must in justice be added that both are quite successful, though potsdam, like most other things connected with the hohenzollerns, has only a couple of hundred years' tradition behind it. the square opposite the railway really does recall italy. the collection of palaces at potsdam is bewildering. of these, three are of the first rank: the town palace, sans-souci, and the great pile of the "new palace." either frederick the great was very fortunate in his architects, or else he chose them with great discrimination. the town palace, even in my time but seldom inhabited, is very fine in the finished details of its decoration. sans-souci is an absolute gem; its rococo style may be a little over-elaborate, but it produces the effect of a finished, complete whole, in the most admirable taste; even though the exuberant imagination of the eighteenth century has been allowed to run riot in it. the gardens of sans-souci, too,
{75}
are most attractive. the immense red-brick building of the new palace was erected by frederick the great during the seven years' war, out of sheer bravado. he was anxious to impress on his enemies the fact that his financial resources were not yet exhausted. considering that he already possessed two stately palaces within a mile of it, the new palace may be looked upon as distinctly a work of supererogation, also as an appalling waste of money. as a piece of architecture, it is distinctly a success. this list does not, however, nearly exhaust the palatial resources of potsdam. the eighteenth century had contributed its successes; it remained for the nineteenth to add its failures. babelsberg, the old emperor william's favourite residence, was an awful example of a ginger-bread pseudo-gothic castle. the marble palace on the so-called "holy lake" was a dull, unimaginative building; and the "red prince's" house at glienicke was frankly terrible. the main features of this place was an avenue of huge cast-iron gilded lions. these golden lions were such a blot on an otherwise charming landscape that one felt relieved by recalling that the apparently ineradicable tendency of the children of israel to erect golden calves at various places in olden days had always been severely discountenanced.
in spite of the carpenter-gothic of babelsberg, and of the pinchbeck golden lions of glienicke, potsdam will remain in my mind, to the end of my life, associated with memories of fresh breezes
{76}
and bellying sails; of placid lakes and swift-gliding keels responding to the straining muscles of back and legs; a place of verdant hills dipping into clear waters; of limbs joyously cleaving those clear waters with all the exultation of the swimmer; a place of rest and peace, with every fibre in one's being rejoicing in being away, for the time being, from crowded cities and stifling streets, in the free air amidst woods, waters, and gently-swelling, tree-clad heights.
a year later, i was notified that i was transferred to petrograd, then of course still known as st. petersburg. this was in accordance with the dearest wish of my heart. ever since my childhood's days i had been filled with an intense desire to go to russia. like most people unacquainted with the country, i had formed the most grotesquely incorrect mental pictures of russia. i imagined it a vast empire of undreamed of magnificence, pleasantly tempered with relics of barbarism; and all these glittering splendours were enveloped in the snow and ice of a semi-arctic climate, which gave additional piquancy to their glories. i pictured huge tractless forests, their dark expanse only broken by the shimmering golden domes of the russian churches. i fancied this glamour-land peopled by a species of transported french, full of culture, and all of them polyglot, more brilliant and infinitely more intellectual than their west european prototypes. i imagined this hyperborean paradise served by a race of super-astute
{77}
diplomatists and officials, with whom we poor westerners could not hope to contend, and by generals whom no one could withstand. the evident awe with which germans envisaged their eastern neighbours strengthened this idea, and both in england and in france i had heard quite responsible persons gloomily predict, after contemplating the map, that the northern colossus was fatally destined at some time to absorb the whole of the rest of europe.
apart then from its own intrinsic attraction, i used to gaze at the map of russia with some such feelings as, i imagine, the early christians experienced when, on their sunday walks in rome, they went to look at the lions in their dens in the circus, and speculated as to their own sensations when, as seemed but too probable, they might have to meet these interesting quadrupeds on the floor of the arena, in a brief, exciting, but definitely final encounter.
everything i had seen or heard about this mysterious land had enhanced its glamour. the hair-raising rumours which reached berlin as to revolutionary plots and counter-plots; the appalling stories one heard about the terrible secret police; the atmosphere of intrigue which seemed indigenous to the place—all added to its fascinations. even the externals were attractive. i had attended weddings and funeral services at the chapel of the russian embassy. here every detail was exotic, and utterly dissimilar to anything in one's previous
{78}
experience. the absence of seats, organ, or pulpit in the chapel itself; the elaborate byzantine decorations of the building; the exquisitely beautiful but quite unfamiliar singing; the long-bearded priests in their archaic vestments of unaccustomed golden brocades—everything struck a novel note. it all came from a world apart, centuries removed from the prosaic routine of western europe.
even quite minor details, such as the curiously sumptuous russian national dresses of the ladies of the embassy at court functions, the visits to berlin of the russian ballets and troupes of russian singing gipsies, had all the same stamp of strong racial individuality, of something temperamentally different from all we had been accustomed to.
i was overjoyed at the prospect of seeing for myself at last this land of mingled splendour and barbarism, this country which had retained its traditional racial characteristics in spite of the influences of nineteenth century drab uniformity of type.
as the petrograd embassy was short-handed at the time, it was settled that i should postpone my leave for some months and proceed to russia without delay.
the crown prince and crown princess, who had been exceedingly kind to me during my stay in berlin, were good enough to ask me to the new palace at potsdam for one night, to take leave of them.
{79}
i had never before had an opportunity of going all over the new palace. i thought it wonderfully fine, though quite french in feeling. the rather faded appearance of some of the rooms increased their look of dignity. it was not of yesterday. the great "shell hall," or "muschel-saal," much admired of prussians, is frankly horrible; one of the unfortunate aberrations of eighteenth century taste of which several examples occur in english country-houses of the same date.
my own bedroom was charming; of the purest louis xv, with apple-green polished panelling and heavily silvered mouldings and mirrors.
nothing could be more delightful than the crown prince's manner on occasions such as this. the short-lived emperor frederick had the knack of blending absolute simplicity with great dignity, as had the empress frederick. for the curious in such matters, and as an instance of the traditional frugality of the prussian court, i may add that supper that evening, at which only the crown prince and princess, the equerry and lady-in-waiting, and myself were present, consisted solely of curds and whey, veal cutlets, and a rice pudding. nothing else whatever. we sat afterwards in a very stately, lofty, thoroughly french room. the crown prince, the equerry, and myself drank beer, whilst the prince smoked his long pipe. it seemed incongruous to drink beer amid such absolutely french surroundings. i noticed that the crown princess always laid down her needlework to refill
{80}
her husband's pipe and to bring him a fresh tankard of beer. the "kronprinzliches paar," as a german would have described them, were both perfectly charming in their conversation with a dull, uninteresting youth of twenty-one. they each had marvellous memories, and recalled many trivial half-forgotten details about my own family. that evening in the friendly atmosphere of the great, dimly-lit room in the new palace at potsdam will always live in my memory.
two days afterwards i drove through the trim, prosaic, well-ordered, stuccoed streets of berlin to the eastern station; for me, the gateway to the land of my desires, vast, mysterious russia.
