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chapter 3

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the russian frontier—frontier police—disappointment at aspect of petrograd—lord and lady dufferin—the british embassy—st. isaac's cathedral—beauty of russian church-music—the russian language—the delightful "blue-stockings" of petrograd—princess chateau—pleasant russian society—the secret police—the countess's hurried journey—the yacht club—russians really orientals—their limitations—the "intelligenzia"—my nihilist friends—their lack of constructive power—easter mass at st. isaac's—two comical incidents—the easter supper—the red-bearded young priest—an empire built on shifting sand.

petrograd is 1,050 miles from berlin, and forty years ago the fastest trains took forty-five hours to cover the distance between the two capitals. in later years the "nord-express" accomplishing the journey in twenty-nine hours.

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