“that in companionship with and close study of nature, who ‘neither hastens nor rests’ but unquestioningly conforms to the order laid down by the creator, there lies a potent means of enrichment of character, and an important medium of culture, i am thoroughly convinced.” from these words of harper’s diary we are enabled to gather with what degree of insight, and to what purpose, he sought the woods and the fields, and the freedom of “god’s out of doors” whenever opportunity permitted. from his early boyhood, few enjoyments brought him the same measure of delight as the afternoon excursions or camping expeditions which took him with other boys, or with his father, across the bay at barrie, to explore the creeks and unfrequented spots away from the haunts of[56] men. when after graduation his temporary employment led him for a time into the bleak and rugged parts of northern ontario, he found an enjoyment and source of instruction in this first hand contact with primitive conditions, which, to his feelings, was the one compensation in the pursuit of an otherwise uncongenial task. if a friend were visiting him at his home in the summer time he was not at rest till they were off together with horse or stick into the country, or out with canoe or boat on the waters of the bay; and if it were winter it was still to be out in the open, either on skates or in a sleigh, or for one of those long tramps through the snow so invigorating and health-giving at that season of the year. when his work permitted a choice being made between the country and the city, he chose the former as a place of residence, though early rising and much journeying were necessitated thereby.
the summer of 1901 was spent in this way at kingsmere in the province of quebec, a[57] more beautiful spot than which there is not to be found along the whole range of the laurentian hills. it is a distance by road of twelve miles from the capital, eight of which can be covered by rail. harper’s real sense of freedom began when, after a day’s work in town, that eight miles of travelling was at an end, and the chance came for a four mile walk across fields, through the woods and along the country roads, or for a ride upon his wheel or by stage. then came the evenings with their glorious sunsets, and the walks and talks in the twilight, and then night with its unbroken panoply of star-lit sky.
it is, perhaps, impossible to convey, save to those who have known the experience, any conception of what a constant association of this kind with nature really means. it proves, to use harper’s own words, “how beauty, grandeur, sublimity and purity in god’s world, find a ready response in the human heart unfettered.” yet it is this perception of god, this communion of soul between the[58] creature and the creator as he is revealed in nature, that is the conscious or unconscious secret of all the refreshment and joy which comes from a contact of this kind. some natures are more susceptible to this kind of revelation than others. harper’s nature was one that could share and did share it to the full.
a few paragraphs from his diary may serve to show how real was the “response” of which he spoke between the world of nature and his own heart, and how sweetly sensitive to even the most delicate of impressions, his soul became when under this favouring influence.
having climbed one sunday morning to the top of the mountain at kingsmere, to find after a hard week’s work that rest which is the truest reward of toil, he gave himself up for a little to recording some of the enjoyments of the place and the hour. he writes:
“here i am having church all by myself in this majestically beautiful spot. it was a hot[59] climb, for it is a sweltering morning, but i am amply repaid. i had a five minutes’ conversation with a red squirrel on the way up the mountain. he was a little nervous at first, but became reassured, climbed down the tree trunk until he was ten feet from me, and looked me in the face steadily as i prattled away to him. the little fellow felt like myself, he could not imagine vicious intentions in such a place. a delightful breeze is making music in the tree-tops, a bird with a clear yet sympathetic note, i can’t describe the note, and i don’t know the name of the bird, is leading in a medley of wood sounds infinitely refreshing after a hard week’s work.
“the thought of the past week has caused me to look up for a moment to take another glance at the capital, which stands out clearly in the bright sunshine, though the lines of the buildings are softened by a blue white summer haze, sufficiently marked to give the effect of distance. if men could only get to a mountain occasionally and look down upon the world in which they live and move and have their being, there would be less dilettantism, less worship of forms, institutions, baubles and lath and plaster. the foot-hills, when last i saw them from here, were rich in the[60] full colour of maturity. to-day they are strong in the deep refreshing green of youth. they are happy. everything about me is happy, and i thank god for it all.”
recording the events of a day on a short trip taken in the spring of the year to the city of quebec and points of interest in that vicinity, he writes:
“this day was easily the best of our trip. in a few minutes we were away from civilization, and started our climb, with the assistance of two locomotives, up the mountains. at every turn some new beauty burst upon us. first, it was a cloud capped range of hills, then a quaint whitewashed village, then a laughing mountain stream, then a tree-encircled, hill-girt lake, then a rushing river, then a quiet wood, then a deep shadowy valley, then a burst of sun on the new-leafed trees, until one felt one’s self getting away forever from the pettiness of the world. shortly after midday we swung across the bridge at grand’ mère, and had a capital view of the falls which have been turned to practical use by the laurentide pulp company, and, about three o’clock, ar[61]rived at shawenegan falls, our objective point. we lunched at the cascade inn, a picturesque summer hotel on a hilltop, and, guided by a staff of engineers, visited the works of the shawenegan falls power company which i found extremely interesting. all this was as nothing, however, compared with the marvellous scene which burst upon us when we turned a spur of the hill and came out at the foot of the roaring, raging cataract. down a steep, narrow, boulder-strewn gorge, rushed the mighty river, struggling, tumbling, roaring, throwing itself into the air, and shooting forward in huge mountains of surging foam or clouds of sunlit spray. i could feel my breast heave in sympathy with the great struggle that was going forward, and my whole being kindle with the beauty and power of it all. nowhere have i seen anything that can rival that magnificent spectacle. my nature seemed touched to its depths, and i found myself in immediate sympathy with the indians who saw in these prodigious efforts of nature, in the presence of which man’s littleness is so apparent, the manifestations of the work of the great spirit. as we wound our way through the mountains one had a feeling that, once stripped of its forest wealth,[62] this district would be a lonely wilderness so far as practical utility was concerned. as i gazed into the raging torrent, i felt that it was worth a whole province of desolation to have that grand, sublime, soul purging sight. after gazing long and earnestly into the mighty maelstrom, i raised my eyes to the tree clad mountains around, rich in the fresh foliage of spring, and furrowed with deep shadowy glens. i felt that the world was indeed grand, beautiful, that no man could stand where i stood without feeling that he had a soul.
“and as our train wound its way homeward towards a sublimely beautiful sunset, behind the glorious tumbled-together hills, the scene of loveliness was set in my mind and in my heart in deep rich tints of crimson and gold. that day was one of the happiest in my life. i cannot attempt to describe what i saw in words. all i can do is to record something of the impression. it was soul stirring.”
later in the year harper visited the maritime provinces with members of the canadian press association on their annual excursion. his account of the trip contains much that is full of interest, and something in the way of[63] recorded observation which might surprise those who had had the same opportunities, or had visited simultaneously these places and participated in the same events. two brief paragraphs may suffice to further illustrate how he was wont to be influenced by scenes of great natural beauty, and in what regard, relative to other things, he was accustomed to hold them. speaking of the montmorency falls he says:
“at the montmorency falls we spent a very happy hour. we decided to scramble up the cliff side, instead of taking the steps. at the top we had a splendid view of the falls which impressed me differently from any i had seen. the volume of the river is not great, but it descends from a giddy height, throwing out a great cloud of white spray, peaceful and beautiful. to me the message it conveyed was of chastity and purity, like a beautiful, faithful woman, who had gone through the world to a white age, unspotted and unstained. the great semicircular basin beneath seemed wrought by nature to give full effect to the beautiful work of the creator.”
[64]
and referring to the evening of the same day, after returning to quebec, he says:
“after dinner —— and i gave up a trip to a summer theatre for a stroll on the terrace before the chateau frontenac. it was a night not soon to be forgotten. the moon’s rays, softened by a faint film of the most delicate of clouds, fell quietly about us, and, from the dancing waves far below, came the signal bells of steamers and the distant calls of boatmen. i can recall few nights to rival it. the world seemed more kind, and my own work in it more clear and possible, as we sat there and gazed into the quiet night, which wore an ethereal, fairy-land air about it, pure and inspiring. most of our fellows were off ‘seeing’ the city, but none of them could have had half the pleasure that was ours. few things in the world could have been more beautiful than that night out there on the terrace, under the frowning guns of the hard war citadel, and above the moon-bathed waters of the grand old st. lawrence. i felt my heart throb as i thought that this noble river was the gateway to canada, the land which gave me birth, and which i am learning to love more and more dearly as years roll by.”
